James Ritson

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  1. Hey Jayvin, yes, you can achieve what Sean is doing very easily within Photo, it's all done through the HSL Adjustment. You can target individual colour ranges and tweak hue shift, saturation and luminosity. There are many other ways you can isolate and edit colour in Photo besides this approach, but you can certainly do exactly what you're asking. Hope that helps!
  2. Unfortunately that's not not what the tutorials are supposed to look like.. are you watching on YouTube or Vimeo? And which browser are you using? It sounds like a decoding issue, but that kaleidoscope effect you describe is usually only prevalent for a few seconds at most. If you load up a video, click the little cog icon on the bottom right and choose a lower quality stream like 360p does the issue persist? Hope to hear back from you!
  3. Hi Michael, are you using the File>Open dialog within Affinity Photo? We rely on thumbnail support from Windows in this case, which would explain why you can't see thumbnails for the RAW files; Windows simply doesn't have updated RAW format support. The best recommendation would be to use one of the apps mentioned above, such as Faststone, and "pass" the RAW file to Photo for editing. You can usually do this by setting up Photo as an external editor - some apps may automatically detect Photo, others you would have to add manually. FastRawViewer, for example, allows you to set up Photo as an external editor and bind it to a shortcut key, so you can simply browse through, select the image you want, and hit "R" (or whatever you've bound it to) to launch Photo and begin editing it. Hope that helps.
  4. Hello James

    The crop tool has finally been fixed in AP 1.6.6. – which means you could/should update the Cropping: practical video from minute 01:06 - 01:17 (the crop now happens correctly inside the photo, not around it).

    Kind regards

  5. Hi Tutster, I've created and edited 40-50 image astrophotography stacks without issue (using preprocessed 16-bit TIFFs). Whether you're stacking for noise reduction (Mean/Median) or for a star trail effect (Maximum), I would recommend you do a Merge Visible (from the Layer menu), which will create a single pixel layer from your stacked layers, then hide the stacked layer group. It will make editing much smoother, as Photo won't have to re-render your stack every time you change zoom level or add a new layer. The one thing you should be mindful of is memory - the machine I'm using has 24GB RAM so I can comfortably edit large stacks (especially in 16-bit where the memory requirement is much higher). If your document requires more memory than you have installed, you'll find it starts eating into the swap space on your hard drive, which will slow things down considerably. You can check memory usage via the Info panel (go to View>Studio>Info to toggle it) - look at Memory pressure. If it goes near or above 100% you're in trouble (and it means you'll probably need more RAM if you intend to edit documents that large on a regular basis).
  6. Hi John, I take it you mean that when you launch the Designer Beta, it tells you it has expired? This is because the current App Store version is newer (since 1.6 was officially released), so you would simply need to update it through the App Store and run that version. The beta version validates against the official version - if it's older, it won't run. In the future, when a newer public beta is released, you'll be able to download it and run that once again. For now, though, there's absolutely no reason to try and run the beta since it's actually an older build than the App Store release. And just to confirm, you shouldn't have to pay anything further than your initial purchase of the app. Hope that helps.
  7. Hi Grazer, you can indeed do this in Photo. There are several approaches, one involving the Channels panel and blend modes, but here's something that is closer to your calculations approach. In this example we'll add the Red and Blue channels together, invert the blue channel and add an offset - seems this is used for alpha selections of hair? Duplicate the image layer you want to create an alpha mask from. Uncheck/hide the original (so you can preview the alpha effect) Filter > Apply Image Click Use Current Layer As Source, then check Equations to enable channel equations In DA (Destination Alpha), you can type this: SR+SB to add red and blue channels together Now we need to invert the blue channel, so your equation becomes: SR+(1-SB) Finally, to add an offset to the overall result, we can type: SR+(1-SB)-0.2 Click Apply and you'll now have a pixel layer with a modified alpha channel. At this point, you can either work on the pixel layer or go to Layer > Rasterise to Mask to convert it to a mask layer (which you can then drag inside other layers to mask them). Hope that's what you're after and that you find it useful. In theory, you should be able to achieve most if not all of the Calculations behaviour using the channel equations in Photo's Apply Image dialog. Bear in mind that values in channel equations go from 0 to 1 and are in float. You can use expressions like lerp(SR, SB, 0.5) to linear interpolate between two channels, and as seen above use bracketed notation to isolate expressions.
  8. Hi Mike, thanks for your comments, I do really appreciate your feedback as it's something we are aware of (and have been for some time now). In an ideal situation with more time, we'd have already been able to provide a more comprehensive, structured beginners course. I have produced an initial set of beginners videos that take you through the absolute basics (opening, saving, adjustments, filters, exporting etc), but from your comments it sounds like there's nothing for the skill level past that point where it focuses more on A to B workflows. I know Simon's (Drippy Cat) video courses have received some great praise and he offers some great structured learning, which is what we struggle with as the in-house videos tend to be a mixture of new features, specific techniques, genres, etc. What did you find was the issue with his videos? I'm sure he would appreciate the feedback as he's pretty active and is constantly working on new material or revising it. The problem we have with our video structure at the moment is that there are plenty of really useful techniques, many of which I'd say could be suitable for beginners to digest, but they're almost "hidden" in videos that cover a particular feature or workflow aid. This is something that we have plans to address, but can't really provide a timeline for. Ideally I'd like to knuckle down and produce a few more of what we call "Projects" videos, where it's a workflow demonstration that covers the start to finish of an image edit. I'm a keen landscape photographer too so I have plenty of ideas to pool from for this subject! Sorry I can't offer more in the way of a resolution at the moment, but we are aware of the gap in the learning material we provide and it is something we're hoping to address. In the meantime, if you had any specific areas you were struggling with, I could try and point you towards videos that would cover those areas (as I mentioned previously, it's not always obvious by the video title). Do let me know, perhaps in this thread, and I'll do my best to help. Thanks!
  9. Thanks crlogic, all updated!
  10. Hey Darragh, I think the option you're referring to is Metal compute acceleration? That's an extra option for integrated graphics on modern processors - Intel Iris should be supported. According to the integrated graphics page on Apple's site (https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204349), your iMac is possibly supported, but you'd need to switch over to integrated graphics. You should find a checkbox on that same Performance page called "Use only integrated GPU" - if you check that and restart the app, you may find you can now enable Metal compute. As far as I'm aware, though, you do need to be on High Sierra. Otherwise, whether you're using a discrete GPU or integrated graphics, hardware acceleration in general is already supported and defaults to OpenGL - you don't need High Sierra for this. Metal compute is just additional hardware acceleration for certain operations like filters, 360 projection etc. You could also try the new Metal renderer, especially if you're still on Sierra (since it currently behaves much better on that OS ). Hope that helps!
  11. Hey everyone, to coincide with the release of version 1.6, here are some new tutorials! It's a mix of new 1.6 features, revisions to old videos, and general tutorials covering functionality and techniques. Hope you find them useful! Quick Toggling Panels - YouTube / Vimeo Quick Inpainting Crooked Horizons - YouTube / Vimeo 360 Live Editing - YouTube / Vimeo 360 Roll Correction - YouTube / Vimeo Light UI - YouTube / Vimeo Brush Stabilisation - YouTube / Vimeo 3D Relighting with Normal Map Passes - YouTube / Vimeo Uplift Epic Skies (1.6 Bonus Content) - YouTube / Vimeo
  12. Sorry, I completely missed the fact that you had attached the file I've seen this happen before and the issue is with the actual merged HDR image. Certain manipulations, especially convolutions like Unsharp Mask, can exacerbate the issue and make it more noticeable. You can see the issue if you activate the 32-bit preview panel and scrub the Exposure slider. I've attached a screenshot to show you what I mean. At an Exposure value of 20 the canvas should ideally be pure white, but instead you have a large number of multicoloured pixels. If you zoom in, you'll start to see blotches of red, blue and green pixels. Without any adjustments, you may not have come across any issues, but the Unsharp Mask especially is further manipulating these pixels and resulting in an issue when the filter effect is rasterised (e.g. when you flatten the document). The loss of contrast when converting to 8-bit or 16-bit is expected: adjustments, blend modes, filters - they all behave differently in 32-bit float so the parameters you have used will not be consistent when they are applied to a 16-bit or 8-bit image. So, on to why this has happened... having looked at your workflow, with the conversion to DNG and processing in darktable, I wonder if it would be possible for you to try an HDR merge in Photo just using the source RAW files? (Or if you would be willing to upload them we can try) - It would be interesting to see if you get the same issue. Regardless, thank you for reporting the issue!
  13. Hey Fritz, any chance you could try the following? With your document open, go to Document>Flatten, then go to Document>Colour Format>RGB (8 bit) Are the results as expected? If so, you can then go ahead and export to JPEG and your image will look fine. If the result looks like the exported JPEG then we have a problem... (Please let me know how you get on!) Thanks, James
  14. Hey Littletank, the tone curve is simply a way of presenting a (hopefully) good tonal starting point when you develop your RAW file. RAW files go through a number of operations before the end user sees the result - including a transform from linear light to display referred, which includes gamma correction. On top of this, a tone curve is added to produce a more palatable result that looks similar to the output you would get from in-camera JPEGs. Choosing not to apply the tone curve skips this step, so effectively you'll see a flatter image with less contrast. In my RAW workflow I pretty much always take the tone curve off. Along with the Highlights slider (which has a more pronounced effect without the tone curve), this allows me to shape the image tonally exactly how I want. I'd recommend giving it a try, especially if you're working with images that were taken under tricky conditions - low light, bright skies, etc. Pretty much any RAW converter will add a tone curve to the image. Some software, including Photo, allows you to control this step if you prefer to work without it. Hope that helps!
  15. Ah, the issue is working within the constraints of the forum software unfortunately (including image limits per post for the YouTube/Vimeo icons!). Hmm, this will require some more thought...