OldHickory30

Some great comments, however, I photograph for the best and highest quality image possible, which is why I use a 100+mp 16bit camera,  color paper, profiles and bit ratio, is all important, it's what my clients demand and not looking to debate the reasoning.  Having said that that, I just want to merely bump down the file size slightly, while keeping all intact, since my printer can not accept anything over 500mb on the server, and based on the feedback it doesn't appear such a feature exists, as of yet. Find it interesting, White Wall allows for up to 2gig files. 

What I wanted  to  see whether there was any difference in size, without touching any adjustments coming straight from RAW, almost a 1 gig difference blew me away. Anyway I'll try your way as well. 

OK, think I. figure out the issues, it was a DXO -Affinity!

@OldHickory30 Below, I made a selection of both the lower left glass panes using the Selection Brush tool (to limit any edits to those selected areas). Next, I added a new Pixel Layer. Then, I worked up close, switching between the Clone Brush Tool (K shortcut) and the Healing Brush Tool (J shortcut). Make sure the Context Tool bar is set to "Current Layer and Below". All this was done non-destructively on new the pixel layer, leaving your original intact. I'm not sure how much you wanted to remove, but here is an example done fairly quickly. I left the marching ants showing so you can see the original selection. You can spend more time to get the effect you want, and also play around with Layer Opacity if you want to leave a bit of the reflection in place for realism.
   

Very nice, especially since you were working with a screenshot. I'll give those options a a shot on my end. Thanks!

Yea thats an interesting idea, I use DXO for my RAW, certainly I can use my M1 for the RAW then take it over to my BenQ, until I get a wider gamut for my main monitor.

Thanks. It does look like your monitor is probably limited to sRGB according to the info below, which was listed in the specs for your monitor. sRGB works great for the majority of images. Stick with sRGB as your editing space and set that as your RGB Color Profile in Affinity (for 8/16/32 bit).
Color Gamut 100% sRGB, 100% Rec.709

@OldHickory30 @smadell's advice is exactly right. It's not a great idea to set your monitor profile as your default editing space for RGB documents. In a color managed workflow (almost all are nowadays), your monitor profile has only one job...to display colors accurately to YOUR monitor. So, if you are working on a file that has an Adobe RGB color space, the numbers in your file will be converted to your monitor profile "on the fly" and those numbers will be modified so they display accurate colors on YOUR monitor. If you send that same file to me, the Adobe RGB numbers will be converted using MY monitor profile and the image will look the same on my monitor as it does on your monitor (assuming both monitors can display all the colors in the file, AND that our monitor profiles accurately describe our monitors). So, you want to use a STANDARD, well accepted editing space for RGB files. (CMYK and HDR are another discussion entirely.)
For RGB documents, sRGB, Adobe RGB and P3 are all good choices for your RGB Color Profile in Affinity Preferences. ROMM RGB (same as ProPhoto RGB) is fine for archiving and preserving all the colors your digital camera is capable of capturing, but no output device on earth can display or reproduce many of those colors. Most RAW processing engines use ProPhoto RGB Linear files to insure the RAW processor doesn't "prematurely clip" any colors from your RAW files. My standard profile for RGB is DCI-P3, which is about the same size as Adobe RGB.
If most or all of your work is destined for the web, sRGB is a great choice for RGB/8 and RGB/16 documents. The good thing about sRGB is that it works even if a browser or app is not color managed because most of those non-color managed apps "assume" a file is sRGB, which means they will display correctly. A case in point is posting images to the Affinity Forum, which is not color managed and strips the profiles from the file when uploaded. The Affinity Forum "assumes" all files are sRGB and will display them accordingly, so you need to upload sRGB files if you want them to display correctly. sRGB is a moderately small color space, but works fine for most images, except for those that are very bright, colorful and saturated. sRGB  will clip some colors that can possibly be displayed or printed on many devices. And many print labs prefer or require sRGB files. 
If you are printing or displaying images on wide gamut monitors that have 99% coverage of Adobe RGB or P3, then those color spaces will preserve more colors and result less clipping and more vivid colors, many of which which CAN be printed or displayed. I print my own images on a wide gamut inkjet, so that's the reason I edit most of my files using Adobe RGB or DCI-P3. When uploading files to the internet or the Affinity Forum, I export to JPG and sRGB color space (when I remember 🫤).
So, pick a standard editing profile for your RGB Color Profile in Affinity Settings/Preferences. sRGB is a great general purpose color space, especially for the web, email, and for print labs that require sRGB. 

First of all, @OldHickory30, I'm pretty sure that the RGB Color Profile (as well as the 32-bit RGB Color Profile) you specify in Settings… is only applied to a newly opened image if (i) you are creating a new image from scratch; (ii) you are opening an existing image for which there is no color profile stated in that image's metadata; or (iii) you have checked the box in AP that says "Convert open files to working space". If you are opening a document (for instance, a document you just created by exporting a photo from DxO) the Affinity Photo document should maintain the color profile that exists within that document. In short, if you export a TIFF file from DxO for which you specified Adobe RGB, opening that document in Affinity Photo should keep that Adobe RGB setting in place.
As to which one to use, I normally use Adobe RGB rather than sRGB simply because it is a wider color space that allows me to work in "more" colors. I used to specify ProPhoto RGB (using that same logic) until it was pointed out to me, by a YouTube video I think, that most monitors cannot display ProPhoto and most printers cannot display ProPhoto, so I am shooting myself in the foot by trying to use that color profile as my working space.
However (and this is the important take-home message) you should never, ever open your document using the same profile you specified for your monitor. That profile is only for use by your monitor, and its purpose is to correct colors when they are translated from your actual document to your monitor (for display). In truth, no matter what profile your AP document uses, your monitor profile will be used in order to display that file on screen. However, when you choose a "working" color profile, you are much better off using sRGB or Adobe RGB (and, as stated, I always choose the latter).
Similarly, when you export from Affinity Photo, do not export an image using the monitor profile. Since that profile is specific to your monitor, it will make no sense for it to be used in an image sent somewhere else (or even used on your own system). If you have to specify, when you Export a file you should choose the color profile it uses based on where the image is going. If it is solely for your own use, and if your monitor can handle it, you can export a document in Adobe RGB. Otherwise, you are safest exporting a document in the sRGB color space. Simply choose that color profile in the appropriate pull-down menu when you are setting the parameters for file export.

Excellent results, appreciate the detailed info you provided. I'll give it a try, thanks again!

Yep, the "&" key works just fine, even tried adding "&" text in AP, no issue.

Thanks, I used the healing brush and accomplish it. I used Affinity several years back, somewhat relearning. Forgot about the Inpainting tool. 

Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

Thanks but even that didn't work, had to uninstall and reinstall...Crazy!

How about minor glitches, spots, marks etc etc....

Is it possible to see multiple images, in a thumbnail format  within the develop mode?
Very challenging just seeing one image at time, or am I missing something?

Ok....I reinstalled the plugins based on your instructions, all plugins work perfect with no errors, including the buy or demo error. I think I didn't follow your exact sequence the first time. Sometimes I just don't follow instructions. :)  Thanks for hanging in there with me. I really like AP 1.5! Hopefully, the final edition will come out soon!

Works perfect! Thank you!

OldHickory30, If you display the rulers, I think you will see that at the current dpi the photo is considerably larger than 11 inches x 14 inches. So if you cropped it to those absolute dimensions, you would be throwing away a lot of pixels, which is why the crop box is so much smaller than the photo. Of course, since cropping in Affinity is non-destructive, you are not really losing anything, & by switching to the move tool you can recenter & resize the photo after cropping to fill the 11X14 inch space however you want.
 
However, if the photo is intended for print & you follow the 300 dpi recommendation, before doing any cropping, set the document size to 300 dpi without resampling. (That would require a minimum of 3300 x 4200 pixel image to begin with if you want to avoid up-sampling, proportionally larger depending on how much you want to crop out.) If you do that first, you will get a much better idea of how much you can crop before you will have to up-sample to fill those print dimensions with enough pixels.

Really? AP does just a bang up job this is how it rendered a simple 11x14 crop took into PS, no issues. We can defend AP or try to justify it,  but as a commercial photographer, someone that has been using PS and RAW processors for many years it simply doesn't work!! If someone want to do a screen share and show me how this fabulous feature works, I'll be happy to go through the process. Beyond that, this discussion is an exercise in futility! I don't care if you duplicate LightRoom, Capture One, DXO or PS, all I know is they work logically, AP is an over engineered crop tool that takes hours of wasted time to justify! I'm done with this discussion and will be waiting for a fix, or can no longer recommend it!
 

I'm a commercial photographer, as well as an IT consultant for photographers here in the Denver Colorado area. Congrats, on a great app! I will continue to spread the news!
 
Warren

Thanks for the heads up....will do!

Yep that did the trick! Thanks! First image processed with Affinity!

Yep that did the trick! Thanks! First image processed with Affinity!