smadell

@walt.farrell - in the video, I did click. But dragging also gives me the anticipated results, i.e. nothing changes (slider values, image preview) until the mouse button is released. This is the same behavior I’ve seen since Macros were first released. And, click or drag, those slider changes survive the macro and can be updated using the Black and White panel afterward.

I am using 2.5.5 and I am seeing expected behavior. (I am using a Mac, and cannot speak to whether this is a Windows-only problem.) In creating the macro, I clicked on the "cog" to the right of the "Set adjustment properties" line. Then, I clicked on each of the 6 color sliders in the dialog box that opened. I had to save each of the sliders separately, and gave them their default names. But, having done all that, the macro executes as I would have expected, with all changes made during the macro surviving after the Apply button was clicked. Black and White Macro.mp4

The same way you manage to get to Carnegie Hall - practice, practice, practice. Seriously, though, if you are using Frequency Separation for facial retouching then think of the High frequency layer as pores, wrinkles, and other small details where there is high contrast. Everything else is likely going to be on the Low frequency layer - colors, highlights and shadows, etc. Even if there is some dark swelling under your eyes, this is not “detail” (at least in a photograph) but rather color and shadow. I would also refer you back to the exact same conversation you had with @Ldina earlier this week:

Same issue, @augustya. If you look carefully at your video, you sample from an area of low detail (less prominent pores, etc) and then paint onto a different area with more prominent detail. The coloration does not change, but you’ll see that you have made the small details much less prominent. Once again, what you are calling “eye bags” are what most would call “dark circles under the eyes”. This is still a color and luminance issue, and you need to address them on the LOW Frequency layer.

@augustya - What are you trying to adjust? The area of the High Frequency layer in which you are using the Healing Brush has very little detail (mostly pores, etc). That little red-brown imperfection on her left cheek is probably something that should be smoothed out on the Low Frequency layer, since it is mostly color and tone, not "high pass" detail. You are simply painting on the wrong layer.

In the Context Toolbar, change “Current Layer and Below” to “Current Layer”. The red color is a side effect of the Linear Light blend mode.

Hi again, @rstinghe. Both Hugin and PTGui are graphic interfaces coded on top of Panorama Tools (a free set of panorama-centric libraries). Because of that, both have similar capabilities. The problem with PTGui is that it's expensive; the problem with Hugin is that it has an extremely confusing interface. I've tried Hugin and found the UI so, so irritating that I abandoned it virtually immediately. It has a reputation that is similar to GIMP – powerful, but with an interface from Hell. I think it's worthwhile doing what @David in Яuislip suggested. That is, try to put your panorama together in smaller pieces and then stitch those pieces into a larger whole. It's bound to take longer, and might end up being frustrating. But it will save you the expense of PTGui and/or the pull-your-hair-out experience of Hugin's interface. If you're happy with the process and the result, well then - there's your answer. Both Hugin and PTGui can be tried out without cost. (Hugin is open source software, so it's free to download and keep.) If you get better results there, then you have to make the call between cost and convenience. Personally, I would buy PTGui rather than put up with Hugin; you may feel exactly the opposite.

Good morning @rstinghe. I have been toying with the idea of getting a copy of PTGui for my panoramas. It’s not cheap, and it’s a bit of a “one trick pony” but I’ve found (working solely on their trial version) that there’s a lot less clean-up after a merge. And, it’s really fast and more complete than most mere mortals could ever need. There is a trial version (30 days, I think) that gives you watermarked results, but it’s fine for evaluation. If I were you, and no other suitable solution presents itself, I’d consider downloading the trial version and running your pano through that. See if it works for you.

I agree, @Hangman. The OP is obviously doing something when he creates new adjustment layers, which always start without an inverted mask. My best guess is that he is pressing Cmd-I without knowing it. He may also have a teeny tiny speck of the document selected, so advising him (this part is for you @Afterword) to choose Select > Deselect before creating the adjustment might work.

It’s deliberate if you understand what’s going on and choose to do it; it’s inadvertent if it’s not intended but you do it without knowing what you did. The latter situation is what the OP describes.

The real question is how you inadvertantly inverted the adjustment layer. Normally, a new adjustment layer does not do this. Did you press Cmd-I after creating the new adjustment layer? (Command-I, or Cmtrl-I on Windows, is the shortcut for Layer > Invert.)

@walt.farrell - it seems to work as you have said, which I discovered earlier (and for which I have found a couple of discussions on the forum, one of which prominently feature you). Somewhat anti-intuitive, but evidently “by design”.

Another wrinkle! If I create an Empty Group with iPad AP it does not ask for a name. BUT, if I select one or more layers and group them (using the appropriate button in the Layers panel) it DOES ask for a name. So, this does sounds very bug-like. Maybe a staff level moderator can provide guidance, or perhaps a Bug Report is worth considering.

It doesn’t work for pixel layers, fill layers, or any other type of layer (including a newly created “empty group”). I’ll have to try turning it on when I get to my desktop Mac, but my iPad version of Photo is playing dumb.

To add info - I enabled the Preference in my iPad version of Designer, and it does exactly what it (and you) said it would. Nice feature, too. But, as I said, the Preference exists in the iPad version of Photo (screen grab below) and, for the life of me, it doesn’t seem to change anything!