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This particular image is basically symmetrical so marquee select the right side flip it and move it to the left side

That will take care of the highlights on the left side of the image and just leave the ones in the middle

You can use cloning or copying to cover these areas (onto new pixel layers) and then adjust them (colour/contrast/brightness) to blend in with their surroundings - which I could not be bothered to do in this example

 

church.jpg

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Right half copied, flipped, moved and rotated to sort of match the original
Top left now has transparent triangle due to the rotation so that's cloned back in
Mask left top 1/4, curves to lighten, white to black gradient  added to mask
Centre blocks - top three copied twice and moved down, stretched, trimmed with polygonal marquee, edges blurred with soft blur brush, white balance +10% for a bit of warmth
Merge visible and a magnificent cheat to finish the base of the vase, not correct but was very quick and it's close enough for jazz
Far better to go back and reshoot

Highlight1.jpg

Highlight2.jpg

Highlight3.jpg

SilkPurse.zip

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6 minutes ago, kamelus said:

I am still looking for a more general solution to treat the high light areas

"Blown highlights" can't be recovered so all you can do is look at each individual image and see what is possible for each one and sometimes you may need to get a little creative

 

To save time I am currently using an automated AI to reply to some posts on this forum. If any of "my" posts are wrong or appear to be total b*ll*cks they are the ones generated by the AI. If correct they were probably mine. I apologise for any mistakes made by my AI - I'm sure it will improve with time.

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Just a tip for the future: when photographing this type of image, take several shots, from the same position, but with varying exposures; this makes it easier to combine the images into one improved final image.

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I’ve recently started watching some of the YouTube videos by Blake Rudis (his channel is called f64 Academy). They are all Photoshop-centric, but just about everything he does is easily translated into Affinity-speak. There are two that might give you some ideas about dealing with blown out whites. I’ve linked them below. Having said that, the given answer to this particular photo is spot-on, and the method given by Rudis would not help this particular situation nearly as well.

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On 5/5/2023 at 11:50 AM, PaulEC said:

Just a tip for the future: when photographing this type of image, take several shots, from the same position, but with varying exposures; this makes it easier to combine the images into one improved final image.

... In many better cameras this is directly implemented with function called "Exposure bracketing" or HDR.

Otherwise, in general, overexposure is much more difficult to correct/restore than underexposure. If a part of the image is "overburnt", it is usually completely destroyed. In the dark/underexposed part of the image, some details can often be restored by correcting the exposure and brightening the shadows. For such problematic scenes, it is therefore better to underexpose the image a little (even though it will be dark).

Edited by Pšenda

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1 hour ago, Pšenda said:

it is therefore better to underexpose the image a little (even though it will be dark)

… with the additional advantage of either a shorter shutter speed (less 'shaking' blur) or a lower ISO (less 'luminosity grain') in situations of low light.
(what are 'these' proper English terms?)

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1 minute ago, thomaso said:

… with the additional advantage of either a shorter shutter speed (less 'shaking' blur) or a lower ISO (less 'luminosity grain') in situations of low light.
(what are 'these' proper English terms?)

I have always used and heard those terms as:

Shaking is Motion Blur, either Camera Motion or Subject Motion. Or both.

Luminosity Grain is Noise.

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I have never mastered color management, period, so I cannot help with that.

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