kamelus Posted May 4, 2023 Posted May 4, 2023 Good morning I have a problem to solve a high light problem as you can see in the photo, do you know a technique to solve this kind of problem? am working with Affinity 2.04 Thanks a lot Quote
carl123 Posted May 4, 2023 Posted May 4, 2023 This particular image is basically symmetrical so marquee select the right side flip it and move it to the left side That will take care of the highlights on the left side of the image and just leave the ones in the middle You can use cloning or copying to cover these areas (onto new pixel layers) and then adjust them (colour/contrast/brightness) to blend in with their surroundings - which I could not be bothered to do in this example stokerg, PaulEC, henryanthony and 2 others 5 Quote To save time I am currently using an automated AI to reply to some posts on this forum. If any of "my" posts are wrong or appear to be total b*ll*cks they are the ones generated by the AI. If correct they were probably mine. I apologise for any mistakes made by my AI - I'm sure it will improve with time.
David in Яuislip Posted May 4, 2023 Posted May 4, 2023 Right half copied, flipped, moved and rotated to sort of match the original Top left now has transparent triangle due to the rotation so that's cloned back in Mask left top 1/4, curves to lighten, white to black gradient added to mask Centre blocks - top three copied twice and moved down, stretched, trimmed with polygonal marquee, edges blurred with soft blur brush, white balance +10% for a bit of warmth Merge visible and a magnificent cheat to finish the base of the vase, not correct but was very quick and it's close enough for jazz Far better to go back and reshoot SilkPurse.zip henryanthony and kamelus 2 Quote Microsoft Windows 11 Home, Intel i7-1360P 2.20 GHz, 32 GB RAM, 1TB SSD, Intel Iris Xe Affinity Photo - 24/05/20, Affinity Publisher - 06/12/20, KTM Superduke - 27/09/10
kamelus Posted May 5, 2023 Author Posted May 5, 2023 Hi Thank you for your answers which are perfect for this specific case, I am still looking for a more general solution to treat the high light areas Quote
carl123 Posted May 5, 2023 Posted May 5, 2023 6 minutes ago, kamelus said: I am still looking for a more general solution to treat the high light areas "Blown highlights" can't be recovered so all you can do is look at each individual image and see what is possible for each one and sometimes you may need to get a little creative PaulEC and henryanthony 2 Quote To save time I am currently using an automated AI to reply to some posts on this forum. If any of "my" posts are wrong or appear to be total b*ll*cks they are the ones generated by the AI. If correct they were probably mine. I apologise for any mistakes made by my AI - I'm sure it will improve with time.
PaulEC Posted May 5, 2023 Posted May 5, 2023 Just a tip for the future: when photographing this type of image, take several shots, from the same position, but with varying exposures; this makes it easier to combine the images into one improved final image. henryanthony 1 Quote Acer XC-895 : Core i5-10400 Hexa-core 2.90 GHz : 32GB RAM : Intel UHD Graphics 630 : Windows 11 Home Affinity Publisher 2 : Affinity Photo 2 : Affinity Designer 2 : (latest release versions) on desktop and iPad "Beware of false knowledge, it is more dangerous than ignorance." (GBS)
smadell Posted May 5, 2023 Posted May 5, 2023 I’ve recently started watching some of the YouTube videos by Blake Rudis (his channel is called f64 Academy). They are all Photoshop-centric, but just about everything he does is easily translated into Affinity-speak. There are two that might give you some ideas about dealing with blown out whites. I’ve linked them below. Having said that, the given answer to this particular photo is spot-on, and the method given by Rudis would not help this particular situation nearly as well. kamelus 1 Quote Affinity Photo 2, Affinity Publisher 2, Affinity Designer 2 (latest retail versions) - desktop & iPad Culling - FastRawViewer; Raw Developer - Capture One Pro; Asset Management - Photo Supreme Mac Studio with M2 Max (2023); 64 GB RAM; macOS 13 (Ventura); Mac Studio Display - iPad Air 4th Gen; iPadOS 18
kamelus Posted May 5, 2023 Author Posted May 5, 2023 Thanks all for your replies and ideas it seem to be so helpfull for me i will try to test those technics and especially described int the video from @smadell ( thanks a lot smadell 1 Quote
Pšenda Posted May 6, 2023 Posted May 6, 2023 (edited) On 5/5/2023 at 11:50 AM, PaulEC said: Just a tip for the future: when photographing this type of image, take several shots, from the same position, but with varying exposures; this makes it easier to combine the images into one improved final image. ... In many better cameras this is directly implemented with function called "Exposure bracketing" or HDR. Otherwise, in general, overexposure is much more difficult to correct/restore than underexposure. If a part of the image is "overburnt", it is usually completely destroyed. In the dark/underexposed part of the image, some details can often be restored by correcting the exposure and brightening the shadows. For such problematic scenes, it is therefore better to underexpose the image a little (even though it will be dark). Edited May 6, 2023 by Pšenda PaulEC 1 Quote Affinity Store (MSI/EXE): Affinity Suite (ADe, APh, APu) 2.5.7.2948 (Retail) Dell OptiPlex 7060, i5-8500 3.00 GHz, 16 GB, Intel UHD Graphics 630, Dell P2417H 1920 x 1080, Windows 11 Pro, Version 24H2, Build 26100.2605. Dell Latitude E5570, i5-6440HQ 2.60 GHz, 8 GB, Intel HD Graphics 530, 1920 x 1080, Windows 11 Pro, Version 24H2, Build 26100.2605. Intel NUC5PGYH, Pentium N3700 2.40 GHz, 8 GB, Intel HD Graphics, EIZO EV2456 1920 x 1200, Windows 10 Pro, Version 21H1, Build 19043.2130.
thomaso Posted May 6, 2023 Posted May 6, 2023 1 hour ago, Pšenda said: it is therefore better to underexpose the image a little (even though it will be dark) … with the additional advantage of either a shorter shutter speed (less 'shaking' blur) or a lower ISO (less 'luminosity grain') in situations of low light. (what are 'these' proper English terms?) Old Bruce 1 Quote macOS 10.14.6 | MacBookPro Retina 15" | Eizo 27" | Affinity V1
Old Bruce Posted May 6, 2023 Posted May 6, 2023 1 minute ago, thomaso said: … with the additional advantage of either a shorter shutter speed (less 'shaking' blur) or a lower ISO (less 'luminosity grain') in situations of low light. (what are 'these' proper English terms?) I have always used and heard those terms as: Shaking is Motion Blur, either Camera Motion or Subject Motion. Or both. Luminosity Grain is Noise. thomaso 1 Quote Mac Pro (Late 2013) Mac OS 12.7.6 Affinity Designer 2.5.7 | Affinity Photo 2.5.7 | Affinity Publisher 2.5.7 | Beta versions as they appear. I have never mastered color management, period, so I cannot help with that.
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