afdojo

You could create a pixels selection using color or tonal ranges:
https://affinity.help/photo2/en-US.lproj/index.html?page=pages/Selections/selections_range.html&title=Range pixel selections
https://affinity.help/photo2/en-US.lproj/pages/Selections/selections_sampled.html
 
Or perhaps you could use some dynamic masks?
https://affinity.help/photo2/en-US.lproj/pages/LiveMasks/mask_liveBandPass.html
https://affinity.help/photo2/en-US.lproj/pages/LiveMasks/mask_liveLuminosityRange.html
 
And to see which are the RGB pixels without a CMYK equivalent, you can use the Gamut check in the Soft Proof adjustment:
https://affinity.help/photo2/en-US.lproj/pages/Adjustments/adjustment_softProof.html
 

Design Aids (Develop Persona only):
Show Clipped Highlights—when selected, highlight areas which suffer from loss of detail due to clipping are displayed on the image in red. Show Clipped Shadows—when selected, shadow areas which suffer from loss of detail due to clipping are displayed on the image in blue. Show Clipped Tones—when selected, midtone areas which suffer from loss of detail due to clipping are displayed on the image in yellow. https://affinity.help/photo2/English.lproj/index.html?page=pages/Workspace/toolbar.html&title=Toolbar

I think your first consideration should be whether you're developiing to RGB/32 or RGB/16. That's controlled in the Assistant Manager. You probably don't need RGB/32, so initially I would suggest changing it to RGB/16.
Next, you might not even need RGB/16. Perhaps your images will work as RGB/8, and you can make that conversion using the Document > Convert Format option in Photo.
Next, if you're Saving .afphoto files, you can look in the Snapshots panel (View > Studio > Snapshots if it's not already showing) and you can delete the initial Snapshot that Photo automatically creates. That will save a significant amount of space.
Finally, use File > Save As and save the .afphoto file under a new name (or Save should work if this is the first Save operation), and now see how big the file is.
If they are still too big, you could consider Exporting as a TIFF file with some form of compression chosen. TIFF compression is lossless, meaning you won't lose any data. Of course, you will have a flattened file, with no layers, and so various edits you've made will be "baked" into the file, and you won't be able to adjust them easily later. That's the advantage of saving the native .afphoto format. But the choice is yours between editability and file size.
To really save more space you could Export as JPG, but JPG files use a lossy form of compression that throws away some of your data.

Or...
Select > Select Sampled Colour
Adjust tolerance, hit Apply then Delete
 
 

@Dan C
Just FYI for anyone following this thread -- this crash is not fixed in 1.10.5.

Select both (all) objects you want resized.  Then in the move tool's context toolbar there is an icon Transform Objects Separately, click this.  The bounding box will only show on one object but if you use it to change the one object they all will change.

(...)

Hallo Kevin, the best I can offer you is this video, it is better than many that I have watched. Personally I never hav a use for Text styles, I do everything by manual labour since it s quicker for me.  Besides that I find making text styles to be a headache, despite the videos I have watched.  From a technical authorship point of view you would not need that many really, I presume you are working to an ISO standard?  Anyway, the video is quite good for taking away someof the headache.
https://www.rachelharrisonsund.com/2019/11/04/speed-up-your-low-content-book-design-using-text-styles-in-affinity-publisher/

It also depends on if the grid is on it's own pixel layer, or instead part of a whole image here etc.

You can try the selective color adjustment, set to black tones and adjust ZMY...

...or just use the color fill tool, zoom in and apply the blue color on the grid...

...or if the grid is on it's own layer you can use a recolor adjustment too...

 
However, there are generally several possible ways to recolor here dependent on your grid and image.

For #2, I'm a bit confused, as the continuation lines you show are indented from the indexed term.
If you want them indented further, I would suggest looking at the text style Index Entry 1. If you edit that style, in the Paragraph section, you'll see a First Line Indent of .25 inches, and a Left Indent of .25 inches. Increasing the Left Indent should do what you want (but I don't have time to test that right now).

This bug will occur if a parent topic is blank because a blank parent topic is alpha sorted before the A-Z index headings. I duplicated the issue, have attached a test document, and a really boring screen recording showing how to duplicate it. Create an index as you normally would. Add a couple of index marks with the same parent topic. Insert the index. Edit the parent topic in the index panel and change it to blank. Presto, the index marks that have the blank parent topic will be moved above the alpha search order.
Index Test2.afpub
Screen Recording 2021-11-26 at 8.49.36 PM.mov

Thanks! I guess that explains why I couldn't find any help/forum info on how to 'enable' the Pencil for Affinity. I had, in fact, already 'paired' my Pencil with the iPad and tested it with several iPad apps so knew it was working. I know this doesn't make sense but I thought maybe I needed to pair the Pencil with the iPad every time I used it so plugged it in again. The iPad popped up a note asking if I wanted to enable Bluetooth to pair the Pencil. Oops. This is a little embarrassing but hopefully will help future newbies that stumble on this post but I had (for reasons I don't remember), disabled Bluetooth on the iPad. Bluetooth, of course, is how the Pencil communicates with the iPad. If I had gone back and retried the Pencil with, for example, the Notes app, I would have discovered that the Pencil wasn't working for any app. I enabled Bluetooth and, of course, the Pencil started working (with gestures!) with Designer. I suppose a drained Pencil battery would look the same. Neither of which has anything to do with Affinity. Thanks to @DM1 and @DWrightfor your help. Sorry for the bother. I assumed that since the Pencil worked with Notes a few days ago that the issue was with Affinity s/w.

Once your Pencil is paired to your iPad Affinity Designer will automatically use it without the need to configure any settings, the only option we have is for controlling the double tap function on the Apple Pencil 2

If you have affinity open, just plug your Apple pencil into the iPad for a few seconds. Select a pencil, pen or brush tool and draw away! If you don’t see anything just increase the line width in context menu or the stroke studio.
When using the pencil it’s a good idea to turn on Touch for Gestures only to avoid confusion when touching screen while drawing with the Apple Pencil.🙂

You can delete the initial snapshot and save (approximately) the size of your raw file. You would do that via the Snapshot panel in the studio. You an merge your curve and live filter layers, but that is of course a destructive action. You can make sure you have not enabled the option to save History with your file. Beyond that, there is not much you can do as far as I know. Developed files simply take more space than raw files, because they contain different data.

Wow, thanks! I've been trying for weeks to figure out how to get any MacOs app to include "Printer Settings" in the pull-down menu when printing to my Epson SC P600. There are a bunch of settings I need to set and several more nice to have.
I just stumbled on this post and, as you noted, the "Printer Settings" are not available when connected via Bonjour. I dropped the printer and (re)added it via IP (aka TCP/IP) and now the "Printer Settings" shows up in all apps.

The printer options menus seem to be influenced by the way you have set up the printer in macOS.
By macOS default you get the standard 'Bonjour' which uses Apple's driverless "Airprint" technology. To get access to the printer manufacturer's driver options you apparently need to set it as IP printer ...

The Import ICC Profile function in AP on macOS wrongly does not consider ".icm" to be an acceptable extension. Simply change the extension to ".icc" to make a profile importable by AP.

Hi Jez,
Welcome to Affinity Forums :)
There's no way to round the corners of an embedded document directly but you can use a rounded rectangle as a mask to achieve the same result.
To do it, draw a rounded rectangle with the Rounded Rectangle Tool with the same size as the embedded document. Then drag it over the thumbnail of embedded document layer in the Layers panel to use it as a mask. You should see a small vertical blue bar appearing on the right of the thumbnail when you do this - release the mouse button at that point. Now that the rounded rectangle is being used as a mask, select it clicking on its thumbnail in the Layers panel, make sure the Rounded Rectangle Tool is selected and adjust its properties on the context toolbar. You can also use the small red point on the top left corner of the rounded rectangle (on canvas) to adjust the corner size.
I've attached a sample file below.
rounded_corners.afdesign

Thanks for your file, as described in the threads Carl has linked to, you need to merge/rasterise the Perspective layer before using any additional tools if you wish for them to remain aligned. You can either double click the Adjustment layer and select Merge, or if you want a less destructive option you can right-click the Pixel layer and select Merge Visible - this will create a new pixel layer with the perspective adjustment rasterised against it, as shown in my following screen recording:
2020-02-11 17-40-42.mp4
I hope this helps!

See these threads...
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/89126-inpainting-with-perspective-live-filter-active-is-offset/
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/96382-inpainting-tool-misalignment-bug/
 

Hi afdojo
Could you please provide a copy of your .afphoto file so I can investigate this further? Thanks in advance!

Try disabling the Perspective and Lens Distortion Live Filter layers, then selecting and darkening, then re-enabling the two live filters.. 
As far as I can see, the Selection Brush Tool works on the position of the original image, not the distorted version. I don't know if that's by accident or by design.
Cheers,
H
EDIT: actually, I think you may need to Merge Visible to create a flattened version of the image before selecting and darkening. I'm still fiddling to see if there's a better way.

The short answer is, it's due to their RAW conversion engine which isn't that good at all for NEF files here. Further you overall better stay with Nikon NX-D as a RAW converter since it produces the most accurate results out of NEF files (...who should know that format and it's cam settings etc. better than it's inventor). - Beside Nikon s/w, the DxO RAW converter and C1 also can produce quite good results here with a little bit more settings tweaking.

Walt,
You're the best. I wish I could give you another 500 points!