Chris26

No It is not pixlelated till you magnify to at least 242 to 300%, which is a good image. I took the image into Photo and imediately went to the resize box. You can see what I did and how large the image can be at 300 ppi. Tis is a good large size and there is nothing wrong. So what are you seeing if I may ask? By the way, do not rely on windows photo viewer to give any accurate representation of an image other than to present a nice photo for desktop viewing purposes only.

Hallo Walt, yes still visible and blurred. I am trying to avoid rastherising which is why I posted the question. But if this is the only way to go, via Pixel persona and mask off what is not necessary to blur then that will have to do I suppose. No that was why I was asking. The Fx blur obviously blurs the whole section. That part that is circled is not a seperate piece, it is the result of a boolean operation and belongs to the part that goes through the circle. I know that I could simply delete this area by cutting nodes and simply draw a shape on top but that would mean doing the very thing that I am avoiding throughout this graphic and that is to maipulate the nodes into position, I am using boolean throughout for absolute accuracy and smoothness.. Here is outline view:

Is this possible to blur only a part of a vector section in Designer? I know that masks do not operate the same way in designer in that one can not simply blur and then paint out what is not needed. I have circled the area I would like to blur: But am lost as to actually how one should do this really. the part that is circled is a part of the longer section that goes through the circle, not seperate.

I need an explanation for the explanation: It's gobleydy-gook really, is there no other way to by pass the coded mathematical functions of rays stretching out into eternity across intersecting segmented shapes here please? The diagrams do illustrate something and there seems to be a logic here with fills involved and the pen tool, but apart from that I know I have failed an elementary commons sense test. Filling self-intersecting shapes Shapes which have been constructed using self-intersecting lines can be filled in two different ways: Alternate or Winding. The Alternative mode determines whether a segment of the shape will be filled by drawing a ray from that point to infinity in any direction, and counting the number of segments within the given shape that the ray crosses through. If this number is odd, the segment exists in the fill region; if even, the segment is outside the fill region. The Winding mode determines whether a segment of the shape will be filled by drawing a ray from that point to infinity in any direction, and counting the number of instances in which a segment of the shape crosses the ray. Starting from zero, one count is added each time a segment crosses the ray from left to right and one count is subtracted each time a path segment crosses the ray from right to left, from the perspective of the ray. After the number of crossings has been counted, if the result is zero, then the point is considered to be outside the fill path. Otherwise, it is inside the path.

Ah...thankyou Callum. I read through and never reaised that this was not possible. It's a pity, I always used this method before so never thought it would be abandoned by Apple IPAD. Well that solves it then. Thanks once again.

I am hoping I will be forgiven for this but I need an answer. I had spent hours and a day searching fiddling just to be able to transfer Affinity design files to windows which has had me boiling at Apple's completely insane reluctance to make it straight forward. The bluetooth devices are paired but we can not figure out how to transfer a file from IPAD to windows laptop. There seems to be no intuitive option here, google searching consistenlty churns up android phones and airdrop and everything except the sinple answer about how to transfer a file from IPAD to Windows via blue tooth. In the old days my windows connected perfectly to Apple computers, but the IPAD is my Nemesis. Please help, otherwise I will have to fork out 80 euros on a special Apple USB connector device.

You are not alone, if you have come from photoshop then it is slightly more difficult to mke sense of Affinity's masks. To keep things simple, may I suggest you frst watch this video: Then at the bottom I have listed a few other videos that go into more detail about how different masks can be used. Just practise practise along and ask away if at any point you want soem clarification. There are a ton of videos out there but here are some starters. I hope they dissolve away the mystery.

Another feature but this time for the forum would be an "I Agree" Icon, instead of having to use the 'Like" Icon. 😊

It is a pity that one can not disable all images while working, this would be a huge benefit to working with large files. I can do this but I have to select multiple images individually it works a treat, disabling 25 images I know is not the same as disabling 120 or more. If you have 120 then this would be a huge problem to do individually. Secondly I make a habit, unless it is absolutely necessary, to have images only in JPEG, this also help enormously to maintain a manageable working document. Now in most cases JPEG quality is just as good as TIFF. Lastly, and this probably does not make a huge difference anyway, but I have in the past disabled certain services and made sure no background apps are runnning and switch off the internet connection and even switch off that stupid virus checker that windows likes to run every day, at least for a while. Only suggestions, no idea if anything here will help.

Well personally I have tried a few methods here. I do not have the Beta 1.9 yet so can not see what Claudio60 has done. However It would be nice of Affinity could add the colour sampler pickers to the curves adjustment (that is the black white and grey pickers). Then we could use the threshold accurately. This is the best manner to colour correct and set white black and grey points which can then be clicked on in the curves dialogue box (at the moment these are not available,) The white balnace tool adjustment is really redundant and has no purpose, trying to use it is like trying to fly a plane through a tunnel when you do not know the wingspan of your aircraft. Even using the white balance with the threshold layer on top is also hit and miss, it simply refuses to acknowledge the fact that you have clicked on some grey pixel which the threshold has indicated is grey, looking for the grey point is a disaster, the black point was ok. All in all I think the colour sampler options would be great to have. I have never made a feature request, it's not something that I believe I have any right to do based on the fact that affinity's pricing for these apps is more than reasonable, but this one time I strongly believe that this type of editing function hits number one in every photographer's workflow, it is always the first thing all photographers do before they even begin to edit creatively..

Is this what you would like? I did this quickly for now, but all I did was use a curves adjustment in the LAB mode and altered 3 of the channels, the A and B channel and tweaked the lightness channel. In photoshop I would head straight for analysing the white point first, then LAB, but I have no clue in A.Photo how to analyse the white point yet, or rather, establish a white point and the mid tone 128 grey yet. Something I have to work on. But if you are happy enough with this so far I can show you in detail tomorrow what to do, have to go, sorry..

Kyr, I very much appreciate this. It is plain now to see. thankyou.

Thanks Bof, I have now three methods. But this has been a worthwhile but infuriating exercise in temper tantrums. I will have a look at your suggestions later after a feww glassesofPort and some fine Italian cheese.

I had tried this before. However I dd as you suggested again, but this time something different as well. Here is the result. you will see 3 layers this time. I did not make the stroke thicker just left them as is. Although this is the first time I have had any success using the subtract method (Thankyou for the perseverence) it lacks precision. Ring01.mp4

So, I have followed your comments, have tried multiple attempts. Still can not get the subtract to function as I expect it to. Please, What on earth is the problem? I converted both rings to curves, cut the unwanted part out and expanded the duplicate stroke that was left on top. I am following every bit of written comment available. I have zoomed and checked and searched. What is going wrong? I can do this now, but it frustrates me that I can not achieve anything with the subtract method. Ring.mp4