HuniSenpai

Hello! I recently downloaded the latest beta and it is truly amazing. Huge performance improvements, the addition of things that were missing before (like being able to negatively adjust the blackpoint in levels adjustment) and there are some neat new improvements to the HSL adjustments, where you can now pick a specific color and adjust its hue / saturation / luminosity. Cool. 
However:
The picker should not be grayed out by default. Why do I need to select a color first, before I can select the picker?  Here's my more important suggestion: add plus and minus color pickers in addition to the standard picker. Take a look at how it's done in Davinci Resolve. Here's how I think it would work behind the scenes: Firstly, let it be assumed that the picker would now not only select hue, but also would select by saturation and luminosity. It would function like the magic wand tool. On its own, this would suck. But read on. Now, add a + and - picker. With the + picker, you can click and drag to add to the selection. If you make a mistake, use the - picker to remove from that.  Maybe add a "fuzziness" slider, too, to make the selection less harsh. This is how I imagine it would look like (ignore all of the nodes and stuff that Davinci Resolve does, of course; just look at the + and - color pickers in the color selection panel)

Hello! I recently downloaded the latest beta and it is truly amazing. Huge performance improvements, the addition of things that were missing before (like being able to negatively adjust the blackpoint in levels adjustment) and there are some neat new improvements to the HSL adjustments, where you can now pick a specific color and adjust its hue / saturation / luminosity. Cool. 
However:
The picker should not be grayed out by default. Why do I need to select a color first, before I can select the picker?  Here's my more important suggestion: add plus and minus color pickers in addition to the standard picker. Take a look at how it's done in Davinci Resolve. Here's how I think it would work behind the scenes: Firstly, let it be assumed that the picker would now not only select hue, but also would select by saturation and luminosity. It would function like the magic wand tool. On its own, this would suck. But read on. Now, add a + and - picker. With the + picker, you can click and drag to add to the selection. If you make a mistake, use the - picker to remove from that.  Maybe add a "fuzziness" slider, too, to make the selection less harsh. This is how I imagine it would look like (ignore all of the nodes and stuff that Davinci Resolve does, of course; just look at the + and - color pickers in the color selection panel)

Hello! I recently downloaded the latest beta and it is truly amazing. Huge performance improvements, the addition of things that were missing before (like being able to negatively adjust the blackpoint in levels adjustment) and there are some neat new improvements to the HSL adjustments, where you can now pick a specific color and adjust its hue / saturation / luminosity. Cool. 
However:
The picker should not be grayed out by default. Why do I need to select a color first, before I can select the picker?  Here's my more important suggestion: add plus and minus color pickers in addition to the standard picker. Take a look at how it's done in Davinci Resolve. Here's how I think it would work behind the scenes: Firstly, let it be assumed that the picker would now not only select hue, but also would select by saturation and luminosity. It would function like the magic wand tool. On its own, this would suck. But read on. Now, add a + and - picker. With the + picker, you can click and drag to add to the selection. If you make a mistake, use the - picker to remove from that.  Maybe add a "fuzziness" slider, too, to make the selection less harsh. This is how I imagine it would look like (ignore all of the nodes and stuff that Davinci Resolve does, of course; just look at the + and - color pickers in the color selection panel)

Great experience with the latest build, all the issues I had with the previous betas are fixed and there seems to be a sizable increase in speed! Thanks to the team for all the great work!

You are incredible. Seriously. I have no idea what you and/or other Affinity devs did, but the program is running way faster in so many ways. To be honest, even though it's a beta, I'm going to use this instead of 1.6.5 because, after an hour of use, it's already more stable than the last version. It has not crashed yet, whereas the last version would have probably crashed twice already. 
I still did manage to recreate it, but it wasn't as severe. And I didn't get any audio distortion. The only way that I managed to recreate it was by having a live unsharp mask, and then a whole bunch of live denoise filters. I just kept doing crl + j until I had about 5 of them. Then Affinity Photo went to 100% usage on all 12 threads for more than a minute or two (at which point I closed the program, because I don't like stressing my CPU when I don't need to). It seems like the time it takes to process these denoise filters grows exponentially, since 1 denoise is instant, two is over twice as slow, and then 3 or more can literally take minutes. I'm not sure why it's not a linear performance slowdown; I suppose there's some technical reason in the code.
This is the absolute worst latency I managed to get while running the new version (and I was really pushing it hard, zooming in / out / panning around while at 100% cpu usage). I didn't even get into the red this time:

Also, the program does not seem to have a memory leak anymore. I just edited 5 RAW photos, ranging from 16 MP to 24MP, even leaving them all open as I went, and I had no slowdown.
Affinity Photo 1.6.5  was biting off more than it could chew, and proceeding to choke to death on it. The new Affinity Photo beta still bites off more than it can chew, but it doesn't choke to death in the process. It eventually finishes what you told it to do, without crashing.  
 
P.S. oh my gosh they finally allowed you to use HSL as a sort of "replace color" filter. Woooo!!!!
 

Hello Bobjob!
 So does the print dialog window open? I'm assuming it does, since you say your printer shows up in the options of the print dialog. 
So what I'm going to infer is that you do crl + p, hit "Ok," and your printer proceeds to do nothing at all. 
As a start, I suggest pressing your start button and searching "printers & scanners." Select your printer, the HP Designjet 30. Now, I've only ever used Epson, so I'm not sure that it's the same, but see if you can click on "open queue." Is anything in the queue? 

In the layers panel, make sure to re-select the background layer before doing "select sampled color" again, as I said in my previous post. Here's a walk through I just made for you
 
Let me know if this works for you :)! 

Yup, agreed! It's called ClearType, and it was developed by Microsoft to add additional resolution to text. It can do this magical thing because every single pixel consists of three dots; a dot is just a red green or blue rectangle. 

So what they do around text aliasing is have red, green, and blue turn on procedurally. 
That's why if you take a screenshot in Microsoft Windows, and really zoom in on some rasterized vector text, you'll see some delightfully strange effects

The antialaising implemented here is perhaps the most clever antialaising available. It effectively triples the 'pixels' on your screen by being able to put all of those dots to use by sending colors to your screen. As such, edges can be extra smooth as Windows and other operating systems are able to divide each pixel into a third.
Problematically, no programs will really let you create this same kind of text, simply because it really ought to be done on the side of the operating system. This is what Affinity Photo will do:

Both of these, however, are better than text with no anti-aliasing at all, which looks . 

A little late, but for anyone who's wondering:
select -> Select Sampled Color Hit okay Press crl + u to open up HSL panel. Adjust colors as you wish.  This is the closest alternative to "replace color" filter in Photoshop that I've found. The color replacement brush tool is cool and all, but in no way equal to "replace color." I'm not sure that Affinity photo has a replace color filter, sadly. These steps work though; only takes a couple of seconds more.

I actually meant where, not what, but I guess it must be on your PC.
I would use the term 'load' not 'upload' because it is local.
Out of curiosity, what happens if you double click on the file. It should load it into Affinity so it would be interesting to see if Affinity loads it OK or says it is unsupported or something else.

GabrielM's way certainly is pretty good. You can also do it the fun* (overkill) way, if you want to do it my way  made a short video for it; I don't typically use my mic so sorry about that.
Feel free to take this as far as you want. Before the last step (removing the live projection) you can do as much detailing as you want. You can add in little creases, you can draw with the paint brush, etc. Just do whatever you need to do to make it blend in (I had to keep the video short because my the longer the video, the longer the upload on my slow internet). 
I don't know if you need this technique for this relatively simple problem, but this is useful stuff to know if you plan on doing more advanced things like this. Good luck!

GabrielM's way certainly is pretty good. You can also do it the fun* (overkill) way, if you want to do it my way  made a short video for it; I don't typically use my mic so sorry about that.
Feel free to take this as far as you want. Before the last step (removing the live projection) you can do as much detailing as you want. You can add in little creases, you can draw with the paint brush, etc. Just do whatever you need to do to make it blend in (I had to keep the video short because my the longer the video, the longer the upload on my slow internet). 
I don't know if you need this technique for this relatively simple problem, but this is useful stuff to know if you plan on doing more advanced things like this. Good luck!

GabrielM's way certainly is pretty good. You can also do it the fun* (overkill) way, if you want to do it my way  made a short video for it; I don't typically use my mic so sorry about that.
Feel free to take this as far as you want. Before the last step (removing the live projection) you can do as much detailing as you want. You can add in little creases, you can draw with the paint brush, etc. Just do whatever you need to do to make it blend in (I had to keep the video short because my the longer the video, the longer the upload on my slow internet). 
I don't know if you need this technique for this relatively simple problem, but this is useful stuff to know if you plan on doing more advanced things like this. Good luck!