Jump to content

HuniSenpai

Members
  • Content count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by HuniSenpai

  1. Hello! I recently downloaded the latest beta and it is truly amazing. Huge performance improvements, the addition of things that were missing before (like being able to negatively adjust the blackpoint in levels adjustment) and there are some neat new improvements to the HSL adjustments, where you can now pick a specific color and adjust its hue / saturation / luminosity. Cool. However: The picker should not be grayed out by default. Why do I need to select a color first, before I can select the picker? Here's my more important suggestion: add plus and minus color pickers in addition to the standard picker. Take a look at how it's done in Davinci Resolve. Here's how I think it would work behind the scenes: Firstly, let it be assumed that the picker would now not only select hue, but also would select by saturation and luminosity. It would function like the magic wand tool. On its own, this would suck. But read on. Now, add a + and - picker. With the + picker, you can click and drag to add to the selection. If you make a mistake, use the - picker to remove from that. Maybe add a "fuzziness" slider, too, to make the selection less harsh. This is how I imagine it would look like (ignore all of the nodes and stuff that Davinci Resolve does, of course; just look at the + and - color pickers in the color selection panel)
  2. I find myself going to press shift or control in Affinity Photo, but I so often find that it does nothing at all on certain tools, while working perfectly on others. I can hold CRL when drawing out a shape to expand it / shrink it from center. I can also do the same when transforming it. I can also do this when doing an image place. But I can't do this when cropping or when placing down a circular or rectangular marquee. Also, why can't I even use the SHIFT modifier key when cropping, in order to constrain aspect ratio? Why do I have to do two clicks in order to change the mode to "original ratio?" It's important to be able to crop from center so that you keep your crop, well, centered. And it's important to have the CRL modifier key for the marquee box and circle selection tools because say, for instance, I want to select something circular. How do I do this? I find the midpoint of the circle, which is the easiest thing to eye-ball, and then click and start dragging while holding crl. Trust me, it is very difficult to eyeball the imaginary bounding-box corners of a circle. And yes, I know that CRL is the modifier key to do a straighten in the crop tool; however, it should change to be the "transform from center" once a person starts cropping. And, you shouldn't have to go into some drop-down menu in order to maintain the original ratio; you should just be able to hold shift.
  3. Yes, I know that live filters should cause some lag because they are more complicated to do. But read on and you will realize that the lag is a lot more severe than one would expect. I suspect there is a memory leak or something like that, since it gets much worse as time goes on. I know this lag is to be expected, since 24 MP + Live Denoise = lag. But here's where the problem is: I just sat at my computer for 3 minutes straight, with my CPU pinned at 100% on all 12 threads for the entire time. Why? Because I zoomed out, and Affinity Photo had to render new parts of the scene. It caused the program to not go through with any operations (like saving the file) before it finished rendering. And it was not going to finish rendering any time soon. I only had two live unsharp masks (one set to darken, one set to lighten) and I tried to do a denoise afterwards. Affinity Photo did not like that, especially because I had the program open for 30 minutes (and it gets worse the longer the program is open). I had to close the program in task manager. I have a Ryzen 5 1600 6 core, 12 thread processor, 8gb of RAM, running Affinity Photo on an SSD, with a GTX 970 4gb. The program has some hardcore software aging (this kind of software aging) on my system, although it doesn't appear to just be a memory leak. The biggest problem over time is CPU usage, it appears. I find that, as the program is open for a while, my CPU usage likes to go up to 100% more and more often. 100% CPU usage means a lot on my CPU... I don't even see it go above 50% usage when playing a game like Battlefield 1. After editing a few files, the program just crashes. I do close out of images as I go, so I only have 1 image open at once. On top of all of this, I even get DPC latency while applying things like noise reduction, sharpening, etc, meaning that audio distorts while using the program and my mouse cursor even lags. Note, however, that I do not have a DPC latency problem on my PC; all other programs function flawlessly. Here's my Latency while watching a 4K 60fps video on YouTube, something that is notorious for causing dropped frames on people's computers: And here is what happens when I do a few different live filters, like denoise, clarity, and unsharp mask in Affinity Photo: And my CPU usage suddenly looks like this: Even if Affinity Photo goes ahead and uses 100% of my CPU, It certainly should not be causing DPC dropouts... rendering in Blender, for instance, also uses up 100% CPU. But the DPC latency is perfectly fine on my PC while rendering with Blender: I love Affinity Photo, but this general lag in the software has been something I never had to deal with in Photoshop. When Photoshop lagged, it came back from its lag without crashing or causing my mouse cursor to lag or my audio to distort (i've never seen a program cause DPC latency before). Affinity Photo is sometimes faster than Photoshop, like with the Lens Blur tool or Liquify Tool, but it self destructs when doing things like noise reduction, sharpening, etc, and it eventually just crashes. Devs / people of the forums, do you get the same sort of DPC latency when using Affinity Photo? What are your computer specifications? Perhaps Affinity Photo does not like one of my drivers, as DPC latency often comes from driver conflicts.
  4. You are incredible. Seriously. I have no idea what you and/or other Affinity devs did, but the program is running way faster in so many ways. To be honest, even though it's a beta, I'm going to use this instead of 1.6.5 because, after an hour of use, it's already more stable than the last version. It has not crashed yet, whereas the last version would have probably crashed twice already. I still did manage to recreate it, but it wasn't as severe. And I didn't get any audio distortion. The only way that I managed to recreate it was by having a live unsharp mask, and then a whole bunch of live denoise filters. I just kept doing crl + j until I had about 5 of them. Then Affinity Photo went to 100% usage on all 12 threads for more than a minute or two (at which point I closed the program, because I don't like stressing my CPU when I don't need to). It seems like the time it takes to process these denoise filters grows exponentially, since 1 denoise is instant, two is over twice as slow, and then 3 or more can literally take minutes. I'm not sure why it's not a linear performance slowdown; I suppose there's some technical reason in the code. This is the absolute worst latency I managed to get while running the new version (and I was really pushing it hard, zooming in / out / panning around while at 100% cpu usage). I didn't even get into the red this time: Also, the program does not seem to have a memory leak anymore. I just edited 5 RAW photos, ranging from 16 MP to 24MP, even leaving them all open as I went, and I had no slowdown. Affinity Photo 1.6.5 was biting off more than it could chew, and proceeding to choke to death on it. The new Affinity Photo beta still bites off more than it can chew, but it doesn't choke to death in the process. It eventually finishes what you told it to do, without crashing. P.S. oh my gosh they finally allowed you to use HSL as a sort of "replace color" filter. Woooo!!!!
  5. Hey! I will go ahead and download that version. Thank you for letting me know; fingers crossed that the lag is being fixed (especially the DPC latency, that's downright miserable). I'm hopeful for the "fixed memory leak" part of the change log I'll let you know once I've got it downloaded; my internet is pretty slow so it'll take a bit. P.S. I'm using 1.6.5 right now.
  6. crl + shift + i to invert your selection, so you can quickly swap between working on one section and working on another section. ----------------------------------------- //the long and annoying way of doing things, although there are a few cases where this method is useful: The other option would be to paste what you have selected onto a new layer, then just jump between the two layers. Only annoyance is that you'd need to do crl + shift + o to select just what's on that layer, without going out of bounds. Although this latter solution is probably more complicated in your situation, it can occasionally come in handy (say, for instance, you're painting and want to paint behind something... it's nice to have everything separated out onto individual layers. So I would do crl + j and starting working with two layers)
  7. This is a little pet-peeve of mine: make image dimensions automatically match clipboard's when you do crl +n for a new document. Affinity Photo has "New From Clipboard" (Crl + alt+ shift + n) but that's a two-handed hotkey and, oftentimes, I only get the object on my clipboard so that I can copy its dimensions. Say I want to make a banner for a webpage. I use Window's snipping tool, take an image, and then put it on my clipboard. Then I just do crl + n, press okay, and bang, done. It is subjective, of course, what's more important: having it be based on what settings you used last versus what you have on your clipboard. As such, this could be added as a setting, allowing users to choose between the two. I would certainly change it to the latter method the first chance I get. Thank you!
  8. This tool is extremely important for photographers, such as product photographers like myself, who need to select a color and replace it with another, specific, color (throughout the entire image). At least 6 people on this forum thread are in need of this tool, 7 if you include me Affinity Photo has a tool for replacing color known as "Color Replacement Brush Tool". However, this tool is not the most useful for some tasks. For instance, what if you want to replace all blue hues in an image with red? Or say you want to adjust the saturation of a specific color in the image (rather than just using HSL, which doesn't let you dial in what specific color you want to affect.. say, for instance, you have an orange color that you want to affect. Or maybe a slightly red-orange color. HSL does not let you target those colors) I have been responding to questions on this thread right here for some time now, where a user was looking for a tool to replace color. The only solution that we've found is a lengthy workaround that involves select -> select color and then attempting to use HSL to get the desired color. However, it's near impossible to do this method with precision, and it's hard to tell just how the feathering looks when you're doing select -> select sampled color. This is what people are asking for: a filter or something like that by which you can use an eye dropper (or choose to enter in your own hexadecimal value) as the target. Then, you can change that selected color by using either HSL sliders or by entering in your own hexadecimal value. This is how Photoshop did it (and this was by far one of my favorite features of Photoshop that Affinity Photo lacks): Relative to the incredibly difficult features that the devs at Affinity Photo implement, I think such a replace color dialog would be rather easy? Half of it is already programmed in the "Select --> select sampled color" tool. The other half would be making that incredibly useful mask preview and adding the color replacement part. I would be incredibly appreciative if this features was added. I am already a huge fan of Affinity Photo -- I think it does a lot of things better than Photoshop (coming from a person who used Photoshop for 7 years). However, the lack of this tool drives me and others absolutely insane. Thank you for all of your work thus far on Affinity Photo, and thank you for reading through my post! P.S. No, the color replacement brush tool is not what we need. It's handy in some cases, but for a lot of people, it's a huge hassle compared to Photoshop's "replace color". For others, "replace color" is just about an absolute necessity.
  9. Try using a feather or refine edge.I think you may want to do feather in your case since it's a UI design; use a small feather, like 2px. I assume the problem that your getting (since this is a UI design) is that your cubes and boxes and whatnot have anti-aliasing, which kind of blurs the edges. So maybe try to include those blurry bits in your selection, too. Are you using flow 100% and opacity 100% on your brush when your painting it in on the layer with the hue blend mode? The hue should change perfectly to whatever color your using. But yes, this method does not change the lightness; it only really changes the hue. If you wanted to change lightness, too, then make a selection and just start painting, no layer blend mode or anything. Or just use shift + f5 to fill instead of having to use the paint brush. The trick is that your selection has to be really good in that it is softer around the aliased areas by just the right amount. This is really difficult to achieve... you need to find just the right feather amount. Photoshop's "Replace Color" dialogue would solve all of your issues; it makes the "feathered" selection that you need and then can force the color replacement as you wish. Affinity Photo really needs to add this tool: You can click on that "result" and it pops up with a color dialogue, where you can paste in your hexadecimal. Affinity Photo does not have "Replace Color" and, as far as I know, neither Photoshop nor Affinity Photo have a brush-tool that preserves lightness like you described. Affinity Photo and Photoshop both have their positives and negatives. One of Affinity Photo's huge negatives (for me and, evidently, for you too) is that they failed to add in the darn "Replace Color" tool. As a product photographer, I really need this Replace Color tool for setting parts of products to particular colors. Hopefully it gets to the devs of Affinity Photo that they really really should add this feature.
  10. Hey! The way that I would do it it (when a specific color needs to be forcefully set) is by just painting the color in by hand. You could also make a selection first if you want more precise control. Here's how to do that (and if you want to make a selection first, do that in-between steps 1 and 2 [make sure to play around w/ refine edge]): First, select the color you want in the color panel. So, this would be the specific hexadecimal RGB value that they gave you; just paste that thing into the #: field of the color selection window. Second, make a new layer. Set that layer to "hue". Thirdly, grab a brush [press b] and set it up the way you want. Then get painting on that new layer, making sure to be painting with the color you want. Since it's a UI and you may want more control, make a selection with the rectangular marquee tool before doing shift + f5 to fill or using your paint brush. If it's a more complicated shape, maybe use something like the polygon lasso tool. Using the color replacement brush tool may not be powerful enough in your situation, so that's why I offer this alternative. Let me know how it goes :)!
  11. Hello Bobjob! So does the print dialog window open? I'm assuming it does, since you say your printer shows up in the options of the print dialog. So what I'm going to infer is that you do crl + p, hit "Ok," and your printer proceeds to do nothing at all. As a start, I suggest pressing your start button and searching "printers & scanners." Select your printer, the HP Designjet 30. Now, I've only ever used Epson, so I'm not sure that it's the same, but see if you can click on "open queue." Is anything in the queue?
  12. So I'm going to assume that they didn't just send you a screen shot of the logo with the checkerboard pattern, and instead I'm going to assume that they gave you the actual .png file with the transparency on it. Tip: If you don't have the same square selection tool as me (say it looks like a lasso or maybe a circle or something), just keep press m on your keyboard until you get the tool I use, the square marquee tool. In case you're wondering, what I did in the video was just cut (so delete and put on clipboard) the stuff you want to turn white, and then pasted what was on my clipboard. When you paste in Affinity Photo (and also photoshop, for that matter) it pastes it onto a new layer. When you do an effect like color overlay (BTW, you can do other effects with this process; you could do just an outline to the bottom text, for instance), the effect only affects the layer you have selected. As such, you're only affecting one layer, and that layer only contains what you want to affect which, in this case, is the text at the bottom.
  13. First question, did someone give you this composition as, for instance, a .png or something, or did you create this on your own and thus have all of the various layers intact and whatnot? Put simply, does your layers panel look something like this, or is it just Background Layer? If you do have unique and individual layers like that, my second question is if the text layers have that A for the layer icon? If so, you can use to text tool (t) to go back and modify them.
  14. In the layers panel, make sure to re-select the background layer before doing "select sampled color" again, as I said in my previous post. Here's a walk through I just made for you Let me know if this works for you :)!
  15. After you do crl + u and set the color to whatever you want, Affinity Photo creates a new layer for the HSL adjustment (crl + u is just a shortcut for color adjustment, aka Hue Saturation Lightness). That's cool because it allows you to disable that adjustment layer if you decide that you don't like the effect. But you need to make sure you don't have that adjustment layer selected when you try to do "select sampled color." So, in the layers panel, make sure to select the "Background" layer before doing "select sampled color" (or, at least usually, it is the "Background" layer that you want when doing photo editing). Let me know if this works :)!
  16. Shift + f5 is the key. It'll let you fill whatever you want, and it'll also let you do other kinds of fills if you want. You can also absolutely make a giant rectangle to cover the entire canvas, which is cool in the sense that you can go back and change the color in the future. Whatever works I made an unnecessary and uncalled-for tutorial on making a quick business card, for a fictitious character, Dr. Dolphin Ph.D. It showcases the shift+f5 fill dialogue, among other things that you may perhaps find handy!
  17. Yup, agreed! It's called ClearType, and it was developed by Microsoft to add additional resolution to text. It can do this magical thing because every single pixel consists of three dots; a dot is just a red green or blue rectangle. So what they do around text aliasing is have red, green, and blue turn on procedurally. That's why if you take a screenshot in Microsoft Windows, and really zoom in on some rasterized vector text, you'll see some delightfully strange effects The antialaising implemented here is perhaps the most clever antialaising available. It effectively triples the 'pixels' on your screen by being able to put all of those dots to use by sending colors to your screen. As such, edges can be extra smooth as Windows and other operating systems are able to divide each pixel into a third. Problematically, no programs will really let you create this same kind of text, simply because it really ought to be done on the side of the operating system. This is what Affinity Photo will do: Both of these, however, are better than text with no anti-aliasing at all, which looks .
  18. An unsharp mask, by using in fact a Gaussian blur (thus the "unsharp" component of the name) can indeed create the illusion of sharpness. But it is not true sharpness. Other sharpening methods, such as the RL (richardson-lucy) deconvolution that RawTherapee offers, may produce slightly superior results. Nonetheless, you cannot avoid the fact the a lower resolution inherently means pixelation, although I suspect you've already realized that. Regardless I note that the intense JPEG compression that you are using seems to be creating something known as macro-blocking. In simple terms, macroblocks are large, large 'pixels.' This can create a very pixelated effect, even if you have a really large image. And, although it's primarily a video term, it looks like your still image has what is called "Mosquito noise," since the varied macroblocking allows detail around the edges of the boats, but "smooths" (i.e. macroblocks) large areas in the water. Thus you get the "mosquitoes" swarming around objects. You probably wouldn't believe me if I told you this was a slight crop in on an over 6k photo, but it indeed is... Look at the pixelation at the bottom. Those aren't actually pixels; each one of those squares, or macroblocks, consists of 64 pixels! Here's a "microscopic" view, zoomed into the pixels of the image, of what's going on; And this is how it should look in about the same spot, with no compression: So, aside from exploring sharpening procedures that will merely fake sharpness, perhaps turn up the "quality" slider when your exporting your JPEG , even if it raises file size a bit. Doing a smaller image, like 600px, and using a higher JPEG quality, like 90%, might actually look better. PNG's are quite large, although they support lossless data compression. At the end of the day, though, there's no getting around the fact that a smaller image resolution is, well, lower resolution.
  19. Is the file extension actually changing to an .afphoto or something like that, or is it remaining the same, such as .svg? It seriously sounds like Windows is set up so that Affinity Designer is the default program for SVG files. Here's an example; I just set my default program for SVG's to be affinity photo. This was the result: Notice, however, that it's still an SVG. The icon means nothing. It's not abnormal behavior whatsoever for all of your SVG files to take on the Affinity Designer logo; it's to be expected. You chose that when you installed Affinity Designer. No worries though; that's just Windows telling you that it's going to use Affinity Designer to open your file; it has nothing to do with the file type changing from .svg to .afdesign. The file is most likely completely unchanged and unaffected by Affinity Designer. Check the file extension and tell us what it is. Is it still SVG or did it change? Try opening the SVG in another software; see if the SVG is corrupt.
  20. Unless it's changing the file name extension (e.g. from .png to .afphoto) it sounds like Windows is set up to open .png files by using Affinity Photo, which will also change the Icon to be the Affinity logo (which can be a little confusing). If you're on Windows 10, right click any old .png file that you've downloaded and then select "open with" ... "choose another app." Then select Windows' "Photos" or another app, and check "always open these files with this app." The fact that you're saying the file becomes unusable, however, is concerning. Does the above fix it, or did the file name extension literally changed and the file become unusable? You may need to, in Windows File Explorer, go to "View" -> "☑ File Name Extensions" Also, just as a side note (which is likely impertinent to your question) "Save As" in Affinity Photo, unlike Photoshop, will only let you save the program's custom file type, in this case .afphoto. You need to use "Export" to export as, for instance, a .png or .jpeg etc. You probably already realized this, though.
  21. HuniSenpai

    MASK QUESTION

    Gosh please no caps lock hopefully your keyboard is working correctly. Anyways, looks like you're lucky; the brightness of the sky paired with the dynamic range of your camera means that the sky around that sections is almost a pure white. If all of the sky is white, or near white, you may want to just do the method I show in the video-- in this situation it may work perfectly. The Refine edge step that I show in the video should also solve the strange look around the tree (and hopefully the glow around the bridge). If not, you can use the brush within the Refine tool to tell it to work on the selection extra around that area.
  22. I have this problem all the time in Photoshop and Affinity photo. The problem is simply the Gaussian blur causes the background to bleed out from behind the layer ontop of it (and it'll do this even if you have it on the same layer and you're just using a selection). This isn't a bug; it's just how blurring works. For illustation, I have placed down a blue circle and created a selection around the circle. Even though the selection is around the circle, it still must take the circle into account for the blur to function properly. It wont apply the blur directly to areas not selected, but it will still take those areas into account. So the trick is to copy the boy onto another layer, and then use Affinity Photo's "Inpainting" brush to remove the boy from the background layer. Then conduct the blur on the background layer. The inpainting does not need to be perfect; it's simply providing a different nearest neighbor for the Gaussian blur. I made a video showing how to do this: P.S. use lens blur instead of Gaussian blur... it looks better !
  23. Ah, a good ol' graduated ND filter You pose a really interesting question here. From my understanding, in order to make the gradient modifiable in the future, you must put that gradient on a fill layer. This is difficult of course, because Affinity does not seem to let fill layers function as masks. Even if there was a method to do this by using fill layers, it would be far too over-complicated to make it convienent. I'd be curious if someone else has a suggestion on how to do this. Anyways, here's everything else you asked for (I think )
  24. HuniSenpai

    Textures

    GabrielM's way certainly is pretty good. You can also do it the fun* (overkill) way, if you want to do it my way made a short video for it; I don't typically use my mic so sorry about that. Feel free to take this as far as you want. Before the last step (removing the live projection) you can do as much detailing as you want. You can add in little creases, you can draw with the paint brush, etc. Just do whatever you need to do to make it blend in (I had to keep the video short because my the longer the video, the longer the upload on my slow internet). I don't know if you need this technique for this relatively simple problem, but this is useful stuff to know if you plan on doing more advanced things like this. Good luck!
  25. I know the tool you're talking about. I seriously wish Affinity Photo had it. Anyways, there's an easy workaround that takes only a few clicks more. I made a short clip for you, and for anyone else who has this problem (I researched this issue myself, only to find out they didn't have the tool) Select -> Select Sample Color Use Crl + U to open up HSL (color adjustment). After you're done, use CRL + D to deselect. I guess it's better than Photoshop in the sense that it's non-destructive; i.e. you can always turn on/off the adjustment layer. Let me know if this is what you were looking for.
×