Mvdarbs

I asked Bing Chat AI the following.

Can you find rgb values for the Pantone colour 19-3832 TCX please.

Here is the reply that I got.

The RGB values for the Pantone color 19-3832 TCX are as follows:
Red: 64
Green: 63
Blue: 111
These values represent the intensity of the red, green and blue primary colors needed to achieve the desired color. Please note that these values are specific to digital displays and may not exactly match the physical Pantone color swatch. Always consult Pantone color publications for accurate color matching.
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I hope this helps.
William
 

 

As mentioned in various threads before, not all possible palettes and swatches are part of the default set of Affinity palettes while you can create a swatch with the required settings (colour preview definition, spot name, swatch name, overprint).

Hi folks,
thanks for the replies but I managed to figure it out. Not exactly sure what I was doing wrong. But all sorted… thanks again.
 
Mark

That's a setting when you create the document. E.g.,

You can just turn that off. If you want to make sure it defaults to off, you can click the icon and make your own preset.

Not sure about presets, but macros can be imported. The do need to be .macros files. (Note the s). Something to do with exporting via macr library on desktop (I don’t have desktop).

Hi Mvdarbs,
As @DM1 has confirmed you can get the macros over to the iPad version. 
But the presets, that's not possible.  You'd have to re-create those on the iPad.  You could get the file from the desktop version where your presets are saved but as the IOS is locked down, you wouldn't be able to 'add' it to the iPad version and we don't have an import option for Presets.  

select one object and hover over the other with CTRL pressed.

Jpeg format doesn't support transparency: what you're seeing is the white text against the white background substituted during exporting.  Try png?  
D'Oh! just too slow... toltec beat me to it.  

Do not use JPEG.
JPEG files do not support transparency, so the background will always be white (or a colour if you set one in Matte).
Use PNG files instead, they do support transparency.

Hi Mark
A quick explanation using the windsurfer as an example.
1. Load the background image. This will be the one that you use for the sea and the first step in the sequence.
2. Place the next image in the sequence, (File > Place) and Rasterise the layer (Layer > Rasterise). Don't worry too much about the positioning for now.
3. Make a selection of the surfer using the Selection Brush Tool.
4. Go Select > Refine Edges and clean up around the edges of your selection.
5. In the 'Output' menu, at the bottom of the Refine Edges panel, choose 'New Layer' and click Apply.
6. Place the next image in the sequence, rasterize the layer, extract him, and so on  . . . .
Once all the action steps are in place, you can use the Move Tool and reposition the surfers as you like.
Notes:
Step 5 will leave the original, placed layers intact but hidden, so delete the layers if you want to.
It might be easier to select the sea, rather than the windsurfer (depends on your image) if so, do that and and once selected, go Select > Invert Pixel Selection before Refining the Edges.

Hi @Mvdarbs,
ON1 plugins are .8li format, and we only support .8bf plug-ins at the moment. Sorry
moved to feature requests
Thanks
Gabe. 

Take a look at the Affinity Photo Vimeo tutorial videos which deal about macros (aka macro recording and replay, edit etc.). Record some steps of those you performed by applying your LUTs, tone mappings and other tweaks etc. via a macro, or as smaller chunks of multiple macros. Then try to re(apply)/run your previously recorded and stored macro(s) on some test images, in order to see if it works the same way then. - See also this thread here about editing macros!

I believe you can 'save' a LUT in the LUTs section of the Adjustment Panel. Here it forms a thumbnail preview of the picture (photo) being worked on. There are a few already pre-loaded with Affinity Photo.
 
Biff
 

Oh, using a LUT is super easy.
You just add a 3D Lut adjustment layer and from there, you click on LOAD LUT. That's it.

 
I wouldn't rely on the LUT only though. They are great to get close to the look you are after, but consider that your starting point may differ from the starting profile used in the samples you see on their website (some of them use a flat profile if I remember well).
Therefore, after (and/or before) you apply the LUT, you might need to do some more tweaking using curves or any other method you feel more comfortable with.
Also, don't underestimate Tone Mapping Persona: it is a powerful tool to get nice micro contrast, which can help to boost the film feeling.
I tend to do a Tone Mapping pass right after I start editing in Photo Persona, before all the other adjustments. By doing so, my starting point has already a good amount of contrast (at least, good to my taste) and I can focus on the other steps of the grading process.
 
Hope that helps.
 
 

I tweaked the raw image in Develop Persona first, then pushed the contrast a little in Tone Mapping Persona.
I then added two LUTs from the free collection above and finally tweaked the contrast with a curve adjustment to get the muted look:
 

 
Using LUTs can be convenient as you don't need any third-party tool.

Try this:
https://lutify.me/free-luts/
 
Two mins. playing in AP:
 

 
original:
 

I'm not familiar with either Amy Shore or Laurent Nivalle, but posts in other forums talk about them using split toning and selective desaturation to achieve an old film look.

These look to my eyes like desaturated and slightly matted color tones with some added film like grain, so all in all photo styles which you can probably accomplish with some analog film like filterings and settings. You can try to rework your images in AP by playing with desaturation, matte, grain and toning settings, or even easier, use some third party tools, like the still freely available Google (now DxO) tools here (for example Silver Efex Pro and/or Analog Efex Pro) as far as these work for you via the AP plugin interface. - There is also a bunch of other third party software from Topaz, Macphun, ON1, DxO, Franzis (Analog projects) ... etc. etc. which all deal and offer similar photo filtering tools and the like.

You should post in the question forum.
As for "style", I guess you refer to the post-processing. The short answer is, you may want to look up LUT color grading/film simulation tutorials.
That said, it is possible to achieve similar results using AP, but it's a longer procedure.
 
Edit: another common tool is VSCO, although that won't work with Affinity.
Examples: http://trix.ws/my8sC
http://trix.ws/aJfyO

Ive just had the following reply from the Affinity guys on Twitter...
 
From @AffinitybySerif - "No updates at the moment, when we have more information we'll let everyone know"
 
I would read in to that... "Not anytime soon so stop asking" lol
 
Pains me to do it but I have just downloaded Adobe Bridge 

I can't say I'm particularly surprised, Mark, given that APub (the last of the three main apps) is so long overdue and AD for iPad is obviously waiting in the wings!
 

I have noticed that things have gone very quiet on this DAM front? any update ???
 
 

yeah
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/13792-feature-request-affinity-lightroom-killer/?p=61067
 
 
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/34446-dam-please/
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/25835-digital-asset-management/
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/14414-serifs-dam-philosophy/
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/13981-digital-asset-manager-asap/
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/31602-dam-photo-manager/
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/14942-dam-features/
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/13792-dam-affinity-lightroom-killer-request/?p=190084
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/23270-dam-feature-suggestions-for-affinity-digital-asset-manager/
 
in the meantime
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/19003-free-fast-file-browser-bridge/
 
cheers 

I just added a (dark brown) inner shadow on the white one and it looks pretty good.  Love what you're doing here, the Christen Eagle is a beauty.