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BiffBrown

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About BiffBrown

  • Birthday December 21

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    Photography!
    Walking, Canoeing, Camping - outdoorsy stuff.

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  1. I think part of the problem here is that Fuji RAW Studio shows the "developed" RAW image: i.e. the RAW file with the in-camera settings applied (film simulation, Dynamic range Range, etc.), whereas Affinity Photo doesn't know anything about these settings. This is because Fuji RAW Studio uses the on-board processing of your camera (which has to be connected to your computer) to process the RAW file. If you want the two to match (sort of), put the following settings on your camera: 1. Set FILM SIMULATION to PRO NEG. STD. 2. Set HIGHTLIGHT TONE to -2 3. Set SHADOW TONE to -2 These will reduce the contrast of the JPEG (and processed RAW file). It will also mean that the Live View and live histogram will match the RAW file. It may also be best to set the DYNAMIC RANGE to DR100. I find that with settings DR200 and above, the RAW file is underexposed at least 1 stop. This is the way Fuji cameras seem to work, the idea being to prevent any overexposed highlights. (Source: Rico Pfirstinger in "The Fujifilm X100F: 101 X-Pert Tips", pg.80). Then agin, I'm no expert. Biff
  2. I've noticed that the Blemish Removal tool in the Develop Persona has changed in V2. In V1, the blemish was circles and a link was made to the area used to "correct" the blemish. This allowed the user to move the link to a more appropriate area if V1 got it "wrong". In V2, no link is shown. It still gets it "wrong" occasionally. This may, of course, be by design. More worryingly, the Blemish Removal is not always carried over when applying the Development. Going back into the Develop persona (assuming the "Embed" option is set), and reapplying the Development seems to work. Persevering, Biff
  3. Good Afternoon. I have just purchased Affinity Photo V2 from the Apple App Store (£35.99). This has been confirmed by Apple. I have not been given a License Number. How do I register my application without having to fork out a further £35.99? At the moment I'm having to use V2 in Trial mode. Regards, Biff
  4. Hi. I seem to be getting the same problem: random bars on the exported image: using Photo 1.10.4 on an iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2015) running OS 12.2.1. Biff
  5. @Ron P. I was looking for some answers on the forum and on Google. Found the video which answered a query others had made, so I posted it. You're welcome.
  6. You could have a look at the HaldCLUT colour tables (film emulations - B&W included) for Affinity Photo: it was brought up a few years ago: Cheers, Biff
  7. What would be useful is a Zone Scale, perhaps incorporated into the Navigator Panel, that could be used to highlight a selected Zone in the image. Pretty much like the one found in Silver Efex, from Nik. Biff
  8. I'd like to "Bump" this topic - I've started using a Panasonic G7. Can I extract the JPEG frames from a 4K video? Cheers, Biff
  9. Exactly the same as me. I did work around this vey extending Smadell's Luminosity Selection Macro's after I had figured out the maths. I took them down to Lights 6, Darks 6 and Midtones 6. In theory these selections should be the same as the more "traditional" method.
  10. You could try DFine from the Nik Collection, although I'm not sure the 'free' version is available anymore. It can be accessed as a plug-in from Affinity Photo (instructions are somewhere in the forums ...) Biff
  11. In the land of the Eucalyptus, I guess it makes some sense. Three quarters of all forests in Australia are Eucalyptus - there are some 810 recognised species. If you see a tree in Australia, chances are it's a Eucalyptus, even if it doesn't look like one.
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