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Smee Again

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About Smee Again

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  1. "Hard mix" blend mode useless? Not if you have access to a fill slider . . .
  2. One more great demo of the value of having a fill slider for color in addition to -- as opposed to just having -- the opacity slider.
  3. Shouldn't that be: "It's all Gouda!"?
  4. Yes, thanks Alfred. "Sepia" is easy. I like to use "Layer/New Fill Layer". Set the blend mode to "soft light" or "overlay" and then adjust the color (I prefer HSL color mixer). A good starting point for HSL color is 30/70/40 (Hue 30, Saturation 70, Luminosity or Lightness 40). Why a "New Fill Layer"? Because you can adjust the color until you get the desired effect. Kind of like using a "live filter".
  5. Add a gradient map instead of just painting over the area with a color . . . I'm sure there's a tutorial somewhere on the forum or open the afphoto sample I uploaded. Decide what you want to color, set your colors for the gradient map close then invert the mask by clicking <ctrl>+<i>. Paint in the area by painting on the mask with white, then make a final adjustment on your colors. Experiment with different "blend modes" like soft light, overlay, etc. Then tweak opacity. Also, sometimes "blend if" will help get you where you want to be. Just click on the little cog at the bottom of the gradient mask panel right next to the blend modes on the bottom right of the panel. One observation about the source photo: When doing restoration, we often rely too much on the clone tool. Try using the patch tool. Notice the difference along the door trim and the door. Those dark splotches stand out because they are a product of the clone tool. Using the patch tool instead will do a better job with some practice. Look at the door and trim and paneling in the attached image, then look at the difference between the clone tool and the patch tool results. The repeating dark/light areas are gone. The paneling color and the trim color use the overlay blend mode.while the door uses a soft light blend mode.You'll find that after you've painted in the area with white, you will definitely want to readjust the gradient map for that item. With a little patience (about 40 minutes here) you can get something that looks very realistic. I can't remember the other member's name, but there is someone on here who is much better at colorizing than I am and he did explain some of what he does. Keep having fun. If it isn't fun, forget everything I said. If it isn't fun, it isn't worth doing.
  6. Default for an ellipse should NEVER be a circle with equal axes. If I want equal axes I would choose a radial gradient. Sorry, I know it's a silly idea but, when I choose an ellipse -- I want an ellipse, not a circle. Don't get me wrong, it isn't a deal breaker when time comes to upgrade. It is just counter intuitive to a former Corel, PhotoPlus, Photoshop, AbilityPhoto, Gimp, etc. user.
  7. Ah, my mistake. Thanks for pointing that out. Crazy that it is chosen by default.
  8. A bit of play with "blend if" and layers. Saw a cloud with a hole in it as my daughter was driving me home from the doctor's office. Just a little cloud with a hole through the middle, but I'll bring it in to Affinity Photo anyhow. When I looked at it, there seemed to be a shape to the clouds that made me think about an old film. It think it was the "Our Gang" bunch who found a knot hole in a wooden fence around a baseball game. Something about the shape of that cloud . . . Second image is what I did using two copies of the original image with an eye cut from another photograph stuck in the middle. Applied some blend if to the middle and top layer.
  9. An ellipse where both axis are equal is nothing more than a circle -- "radial" is the correct term.. An actual ellipse will -- by definition -- have one axis longer than the other. Rather than resembling a ball, it will more often resemble an egg. The ellipse gradient in Affinity Photo isn't an ellipse. You cannot vary the axis to cause it to become an actual ellipse. When you lengthen or shorten either axis, you are accomplishing the same operation on the other axis. I hope someone can fix this problem. https://youtu.be/VL1SzmY_h7M . . . and while you're at it, it would be nice if each time I went back to use the tool, the previous "type" of fill would be selected rather than going back to linear every time.
  10. Deskew by using the arrow selection tool and unlocking the bottom layer. Grab the center node on bottom or either side and move as needed. Alternatively, the "perspective tool" (nested with the mesh warp tool) to really adjust a skewed image. Can even correct perspective (as its name says).
  11. BTW, looks like a 60's band -- the kind my older cousin was in. The matching clothes give it away. By the 70's most of those were gone.The closest we came was everyone wearing blue jeans.
  12. You might have a bit of fun with the attached file. By no means finished, but play around with what I did with the gradient maps if you've ever thought about "colorizing" images like these. The brush work leaves much to be done . . . you're only using two colors: black and white . . . to make the process work for even complicated items like the jackets those guys are wearing. Hope you enjoy. Oh, and the patch tool took out most of the discolorations around the door. Cloning tool is great, but I like to come behind it with the patch tool and with a bit of patience I can remove most of the evidence of cloning (like the dark smudges). boys_in_the_band.afphoto
  13. My eyes keep seeing a bit of "sepia" or maybe yellow in the image. Did you convert to grayscale?
  14. Perhaps you need to check size or file type against what is allowed. Look forward to seeing it (as a former forum administrator for another software company, I've grown learn of following links in forum posts because of the possibility of their leading to a malicious site).
  15. No, you can't adjust fill using Affinity Photo's Layer Effects. The "FILL" option in Layer Effects is simply mislabeled. It should have read "OPACITY" -- not FILL. There is a difference in how fill and opacity work. You can almost get close using blend-if. However, after spending a couple of hours with "close" I had to scrap the project because the results were horrendous. "Close" won't do. We really NEED a fill option in addition to the opacity option. They are not the same and you cannot substitute one for the other because the specialized blend modes react differently to the image being edited.
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