pixelcoder

Hi Miltrin, For large files like your Tiffs I would use an App called Photosync. https://www.photosync-app.com/ It has an companion App on Windows and Mac. (I have an Windows PC so I use this) Do you have an Mac? Then you could use Airdrop on the iPad to transfer the files to you Mac as well. https://support.apple.com/en-us/ht203106 The IOS and MacOS of Affinity Photo are almost identical. AP on iOS gives you the same high quality output like the Desktop Version on Windows and Mac. cheers, Lutz

Hi and welcome to the Forum. Since Apple doesn't offer much well choice, if you have the money I would buy the iMac Pro. With the smallest CPU and 32GB Ram. (The 64GB Ram option comes with an in my opinion insane additional charge.) With that machine you should be good the next couple of years. And Video editing is also possible with ease. What I also highly recommend is to checkout the iPad Pro. Its crazy how good Affinity Photo works like a charme on it. With the Apple Pencil its I think the perfect combo not just on the go. cheers, Lutz

Hey, Sorry to hear that you have to deal with all those crashes, iOS 11.3 beta 7 ? Its now released and there were just 6 betas afaik. Also are you trying to drop 30 photos into affinity at the same time? If I would do that with Photoshop on my 32GB Ram Desktop Workstation Windows Machine (The iPad has only 4GB) I would bring it to crash also, at least it will Swap and become unresponsive with such an huge amount of files open at the same time. Affinity Photo is not like Light-room where you can import thousands of files at the same time and edit them. Its more like Photoshop and imho even better to do complex photo manipulation and edits. File by file. cheers and happy easter, Lutz

Hi LLM, merge the visible, is like you press Ctrl-Strg-Shift+E on a PC it makes a new layer with all the edit of the underlying ones. Very useful when you want make for example Luminosity selections of the complete image. I think what you mean to reduce the file size is flat the layers. When you flatten all layers it will be only one layer left. (But then all layers will be lost after you save the file) cheers, Lutz

Documents is really a helpful tool, and miles ahead of Apples own Files App. What I also can recommend after stumbling on it is Filebrowser, its not free but worth every cent. It has some more advanced features and I would use it only but it cant open RAR Files. (Documents can do that). Filebrowser can even stream to my Chrome-cast, wich is kind of a problem on iOS. If you want jpg and h.264 files go to Settings->Camera->Formats and choose "Most compatible". That will turn of this HEIF/HEVC Apple format. Also make sure under Settings->Photos->Optimise iPad Storage is not enabled. That can cause some problems with RAW Files. Pro Tip: If you have an friend or someone with Linux knowledge, let them install you an NextCloud Server. You will never look back once you get in running. Full control over your own data and the feature list of nextcloud with its tons of Addons is almost endless. (It cant cook coffee unfortunately ) cheers, Lutz

I am on iOS 11.3 beta 5 still no problems, no Batterie issues, no nothing. It just works... (For future updates in case hehe, I know its weird but I like to running the betas, since it cleans up so much space each time it updates..that is really the only reason why I am on the beta, since I dont need iCloud Messages, and the new Battery health status is not for iPad, at least I dont have the menu like I have seen on iPhones.) cheers, Lutz

I just tried it and it works but just after opening the same file three times. The first two times the app doesn’t show the picture but Import it. When you use the photos app do you have optimised storage enabled in iCloud? Cheers, Lutz

Hi, are you sure you have RAW Files you work with cause I have an Nikon and File Size L is for jpg not raw. Or do you shoot Raw+Jpg? Update: I just saw that newer models have different Raw Size as well, so that might not be the problem here. cheers, Lutz

Hi Ken, my own Camera has only 12MB Raw Files, but I edit already 45MBs Raws from the D850 for clients, without any problems. What I also have often are super large PSDs like around 800Megabyte with multible layers, also no problem. Just make sure you have no other App open in the Background. One suggestion I would give you is buy the higher capacity iPad Pro with 256 or 512GB, the space will fill up like crazy. cheers, Lutz

Hi Kasundan, make sure the pressure sensitivity is enabled, its not enabled on some brushes by default. The other icon below the pressure sensitivity button is for an transparency effect like watercolor. cheers Lutz

I agree the Apple Adapters are way overpriced and I never buy them. I have a cheap SD Card Reader it works well, but only with the Apple Photos App. The Geekgo Adapater looks very good, but also no delivery to Germany. Since I am searching for a better way to store my files on the go and my iPad has only 64GB I will try this one and report back if interestet: https://www.amazon.de/Philonext-Speicherkartenleser-Kartenleser-Interfaces-Smartphones/dp/B073TZCHYW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520322702&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Geekgo+USB+%26+Lightning+SD+Card+Reader+for+Apple+iPhone I also heard very good things about the Sandisk IXpand drives. Some Apps like LumaFusion has nativ support for this USB Drive. Downside is the price is a little high. cheers, Lutz

Same here, what I do before using Nik is to duplicate the layer. It has the same effect like in Photoshop, just that you have to think to do it before until it becomes a habit cheers, Lutz

Seems like it affects only the windows version, wich I think uses a different raw engine than the iOS and Mac version. here a screenshot from the iPad version of your raw. Cheers, lutz

Hi and welcome, there is no quality loss I would say, its like developing the photo in Lightroom and do fine tuning by sending it to Photoshop. The file stays high quality until you save it out to jpeg for example. Then it gets converted to 8Bit . At least that is what I guess the program does, since when you safe it in the native ap format and go to the project overview you can see that there is a little symbol with "16Bit" on it, wich means high quality. So I would say there is no right way, both are right and you can do what feels more comfortable for you. When you like editing outside the develop persona go for it. That is what I do to. I just do basic adjustments like shadows and highlights (yay new algorithm rocks) there and the rest in Photo Persona with all the layers and bells and whistles. cheers, Lutz

Thanks for sharing the macro Paul, cant wait the day we can record them on the iPad Version. (little future request hidden hehe)