charty

You're welcome. You should be able to select it even after pasting, and I don't think the results should matter if it's selected before pasting or after.

The stacking algorithm fails because the mountains provide a firmer edge for it to latch onto than the more nebulous Milky Way. This has been asked before. My suggestion was to blur the edges of the mountains (and any other horizon) and hope that the stars etc are sufficiently well-defined for alignment.
For just1 two images, I would suggest that, rather than a Stack, you just paste one image on top of the other, set the opacity to 50% and align them manually.
John

Before (or after) the paste is the Move Tool selected?

It's this one in the Tools panel: (keyboard shortcut, by default, is V)

I cannot get a copy soon enough.  My migration to Affinity Photo is severely hampered by having little to no overview of what features are there and how to use them.  I know this software can do a lot, but it's done so differently than in Photoshop that I fight to do the most basic things.  I find the tutorials helpful, but they are more like a reference manual - there's no large scale overview that gains insight into the way AP designers think.  (Reminds me of the jokes about source revision systems, where people say "just type in this line and you'll get the latest version.)
 
I think it would be awesome if someone could make a book partially targeting Photoshop users to say how similar things are done in Affinity Photo, and partially to give a high level overview of the high level way AP works.  One hangup is there seems to be a lot of modes and contexts in AP, and if you're not in the right state, you can't do basic things that you could do a minute before.

I find it odd, that after many, many requests by users to publish / provide a users manual for Affinity Photo (and being told to use the online tutorials) that Affinity decided to publish a "manual" for Designer and has still elected to forego a user manual for Photo.  Not meaning to beat a dead horse here, but is this something we will see, other than Affinity "considering it"? I, for one, would certainly appreciate and buy it.

I'm brand new to Affinity, and have just started working my way through the tutorials, which are helpful for a beginner, even if I can't absorb everything---they show me what's possible. But I would love to have a manual, for reference when there is a particular feature I need to review. I had a big fat manual for PSE 8 for Mac, it covered absolutely everything,  and I  ended up using it a lot. So when the Affinity manual comes out, I'll want one of those too!  In the meantime, I agree with Michael,  those videos are very helpful, and you can watch them multiple times. 

It's not a brush, it is the Rounded Rectangle tool - I used it to fill and match the shape of the lightened area. I then used the Gaussian Blur live filter to blur the rectangle to blend the edges into a nice transition to the original picture.

You should be able to open the afphoto file attached to my first post and see how it was done. :)

You could try taking a yellow Rounded Rectangle and using a Gaussian Blur to give a nice soft transition and place that over the discoloured areas and then using a mix of blend modes and layer opacity to achieve a result you are happy with. I've done a quick test using your image here:

Feel free to try different colours on the rectangle along with different opacity and layer blends.
Test.afphoto

I'm thinking that a Negation/Exclusion/Difference blend will be great for creating black over the white areas....
BUT it's not going to give you pure white over imagery (the face).
Those blends will create white only over black areas, for sure.
 
Sorry Peter, Contrast Negate aint gonna "cut it"  ;) ...   (unless, of course, that's the effect one is looking for.)
 
Soooo,
 
Pic 1) Create a layer underneath the color photo that is exclusively black or white.
(I used the Selection Brush tool.... and for this example spent about 15 seconds refining it  ;) )

 
Pic 2) Move the text, with Blending set to Erase, as a child of the photo.

 
Still fully moveable. I placed it over the eyelash just to show a tough spot B) . 
 
Alternatively, you can use the text as a mask to the B&W layer placed above the color image.

 
But you still need the B & W silhouette (imho)  :)

It would help if when starting a new thread I'd have to click 'AP / AD / both' - this would allow filtering the threads and the search results.
 
Same for 'Mac / Windows / both' later.

Try this:
 
Create a new layer.
Enter your text on that layer.
Change the all of your text from black to white (it is the background colour).
Then using the blend mode as mentioned by Alfred, keep your white text selected then use Contrast Negate.
 
Job done. B)
 
HTH 
 
peter

Hi, Support Team,
 
Currently, I'm just using AP (at the moment  :) ). I like to browse this Q&A forum to see if I can learn something from other users' questions and the answers they got, and indeed I've learned quite a bit ^_^ .
 
But quite often, by just reading the titles of the many questions asked, it's difficult to know which ones are for AP and which ones for AD. Is it possible there could be two different forums for AP questions and AD questions?
 
Thank you.

There is a short video tutorial for this at Affinity Designer - Layers Panel Drop Zones. For some reason, I don't see it mentioned in the Tutorials > In-house Affinity Designer Video Tutorials topic, but it was posted to Vimeo about a year ago.

hi OldNav, I agree with Mike, there's no automagical way. in general, you can achieve good results adding pixel layers and changing their blending mode to "colour". then, paint on them with the paintbrush: the painted area should retian textures and tonality from the bw image, but take the hue from the brush strokes. selecting colors accurately and trying different amounts of opacity, you should get what you want. you can also experiment with different blending modes.
my advice is to use a new pixel layer for each area in the image: this way, you can set blending mode and opacity for each area and also get a strong, non-destructive setup of your work: if you decide to change something, you can edit the corresponding layer or even delete it, while keeping the good part of your work intact.

Hi Bethem,
Welcome to Affinity Forums :)
Seems you have selected the Undo Brush Tool instead of the regular Paint Brush Tool (see attached screenshot), that's why you're receiving that message. Select the Paint Brush Tool and a brush from the Brushes panel on the right of the interface and it should now work as you are expecting.
 

 
Make sure you are using the brush in a Pixel layer. If the layer you have selected in the Layers panel is identified as an (Image) layer, right-click on it and select Rasterise to convert it to a (Pixel) layer type. Image layers are considered an object layer type and as such you can only edit them "globally" that is, change their scale, rotate or skew. To edit them at a pixel level you must convert them to Pixel layers first.
 
The Undo Brush Tool lets you restore parts of the image to a previous state using a saved snapshot, in other words, when you are working on an image and you are happy with its current "state" you can save/capture it using the Snapshots panel (menu View ▸ Studio ▸ Snapshots) so you can revert back to it later in case something goes wrong as you move forward with the editing. The Undo Brush Tool lets you pick that saved "state" and paint it back over the areas you may have made changes you were not happy with. To learn more about this tool check the Help ▸ Affinity Photo Help ▸ Workspace ▸ Tools ▸ Retouch Tools ▸ Undo Brush Tool.

Just uploaded a little video showing how to use the Inpainting Fill function to add image to a canvas.
 
https://youtu.be/hY22H7_Epl4

Hi cwmbrancon,
There's no need to use the eyedropper. Set the foreground colour to the replacement colour you want to use (from your example it would be green), then paint over the colour you want to replace on canvas. Make sure you are working with a Pixel layer (not an Image layer). You can check the type of layer you are working with looking at the label between parenthesis after the layer's name in the Layers panel. Affinity should change it automatically to a Pixel layer for you, if not right-click on the Layer and select Rasterise.
 
Since you are trying to "colorise" a grey area (a neutral color), the Colour Replacement Brush may not be the best option here since there's no colour information to be replaced with.
You may want to try to add an Adjustment instead (like the Recolour, Selective Colour or HSL Adjustements). It's also closer to what Photoshop does. The process is similar no matter the Adjustement chosen:
go to menu Layer ▸ New Adjustment Layer and select the apropriate adjustement. select the new Adjustment layer in the Layers panel and press ⌘ (cmd) + I to invert the built-in mask (so you can paint over the areas you want to affect) set the Paint Brush Colour to white and paint over the areas you want to adjust (you are actually painting on the mask) use the Adjustment's window sliders to select / fine tune the colour of the painted areas.

You could use the Displace filter to match exactly the ripples of the base image........ be careful though, Displace filter clips it's results to the object bounding box..

Thanks for the thumb up. :)  This was just to show you how it's possible to achieve the effect.
I think I was a little unclear,  I don't have the time to work more with it.
But IF i had, I would make the ripples so they match the ripples in the sea. Please have a go yourself. :)

I hope you don't mind me doing this to your picture. 
 
I didn't use blending modes, just  the normal. I used a textured brush and built the reflection of three layers (copied the layer two times). 
Used the transform tool on the bottom layer and "stretched" it a little (wider) Lowered the opacity.
The middle layer I used as it was, but played with the opacity. The third layer I squeezed so it got more dense.
 
I also used the blur tool on the bottom layer. (And I added a slight rim light to the threes, just for good measure ;) )
 
This is just a quick job, I would work a little more on the texture to make it look a little more/less "rippled"as the sea is.

Hi.
 
I would add a pixel layer and choose a textured brush.
Paint with the same colour as the moon. Adjust the opacity of the layer.
Look at pictures of moon reflections to get inspiration.

Check this out. http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-create-a-reflection-in-photoshop-in-6-easy-steps/
 
It's a PS tutorial but you can do it with AP. My suggestion is to select the moon then create a mask. From there you select the layer and mask, ctrl v, go to arrange and choose flip vertically. You are then just mirroring the moon so when you apply the gradient it is only on the moon. guassian blur it and whatever else with the live filters and filters you can experiment with. It works

Whoa, you're an angel Madame!  :D
 
Of course I don't mind (and why should I), you're welcome to play with my picture however you like  ^_^  and I'm looking forward to seeing your final touch.
 
Cheers!

Hi NapaArtist,
 
If you go to Help > Affinity Photo Help towards the top of the program you will get a help window appear. In here you can search for individual tools and it will give you a brief explanation of what they do and how to use them. We are making a user manual but it isn't ready just yet!
 
C