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  1. Direct delete and position feedback while editing (the proposal would be of interest to Affinity Photo and Affinity Publisher alike). A. You right-click on a guide and a new context menu appears. There you can select delete or edit. An alternative to a right-click could be a double click. B. The editor that opens would be the same as currently, BUT three new features would exist: If you have opened the editor via the context menu of a guide, then the corresponding guide is highlighted in the editor list. At the same time, the guide would also be highlighted in the workspace. E.g. it could be pink instead of blue. Great feedback when there are many guides. As soon as you select another guide in the editor guide lists, the same thing would happen, the corresponding guide would also be highlighted in your workspace. So you always know exactly what you are doing.
  2. I'm editing a photo in Affinity for Mac. The photo I'm working with looks completely blown out when I try to export it. The image is a bracketed photo that I imported using the HDR Merge feature. These were raw DNG files that I took with my drone (DJI Mini 3 pro). I'm working on my 2019 16" MacBook Pro if that helps at all. I've tried exporting in several different file formats (PNG, JPEG, and HDR to name a few). They all basically look the same when exported. I've tried sharing directly to Apple Photos on my Mac and that looks the same. I deleted the original file and started again with the same bracketed files, but it continued to act the same way. When I preview the photo at the export screen in Affinity, it looks blown out and when exported, looks like the preview. However when I go back to the editor, the photo looks completely different. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Or how I can correct this? I'm a hobbyist who is starting to learn more about editing, so I may be doing something dumb. I've attached the photo from apple photos and the AF file for comparison. I also attached screenshots of the export screen and the image profile. Thanks for any help. Barge on the River.afphoto
  3. Hello. I would like to ask why affinity photo's develop persona is still has very limited features? I hope they would at least add color correction features that would allow you to change hue by hue, hue by luminosity, hue by saturation, saturation by hue and etc. A lot of useful color editing tool are only available outside develop persona, making it harder to edit the image without degrading it easily. The masking in develop mode is also still very limited. I hope affinity will soon add it to their updates. Thanks.
  4. Hello I would like to propose a feature that would allow the user to switch between the orginal and the current adjustment of raw image in a faster way. I am aware of the syncing feature but there are times when it just takes a lot of steps to just view the orginal especially if you accidentaly synced the wrong adjustment. This new toggle button feature would just allow a quick way to switch from orginal. In a simple way, this is like a toggle button that disables all the effects/adjustments including the overlays.
  5. Hi, I was editing my Affinity Publisher file and was saving my edits. While saving, it crashed and when I tried to open the file, it says it has been truncated and I cannot edit or use the file anymore. I saved it on my desktop and I am absolutely devasted. Is there anything I can do? 1330338472_Tryinghard.afpub
  6. I've noticed something that bugs me, but can't figure it out in Designer (but also the other products). If I have an object - say an image I've placed. And I want to draw a rectangle on top of it, starting at the upper left corner of the image. I change to the rectangle tool, but when I go to draw the rectangle, the cursor "sees" the handle of the image and changes it, rather that 'inserting' the rectangle. Is there a key combination or something to prevent this? This is a basic example, but hoping for some clarity.
  7. I'm working on an ~170pg book for an author. I'm new to Affinity Publisher. I auto flowed the word.docx following a YT tutorial. Great, however: Here's my question: I discovered I really need to tweak the margins to take into account headers and footers, pagination, etc. Is there a way to change the margins so I don't have to fix each page individually? I need to be able to see how large the book is in two book sizes as well, (ie 5 x 8 and 6 x 9). I created two master pages, am planning on doing sections and such, heading styles - and I don't want to proceed yet until I know if I have to make separate sizes or whether I can duplicate with different margins.
  8. I think that there should be a video showing how to use L.a.b. colour to rescue flat files. I used Photoshop for years for this purpose now I am getting to grips with the different process in Affinity. The present videos do not do justice to this powerful tool. I have attached a before and after edit which only took a couple of minutes using Curves in L.a.b. For your info they are in the South Australian outback. There is much more to L.a.b. and it is the main reason that I chose Affinity when I gave up Photoshop Eric
  9. Hi Affinity Forum! I'm fairly new to Affinity and having been learning as I go since buying it over the summer, but I have come across a hurdle that I need some help with. I'm in the early stages of founding a new online wine startup (caminodelvino.co.uk) and I have been practising and playing around with my photo and editing skills in the run up to launch. Using a mini home studio as my setup, I've managed to edit a photo (see wine photo attached) to an acceptable level so far and recently, used the healing brush tool to edit out the crease line on my backdrop so that it looks more 'professional'. I have three questions: 1) is there a better alternative to using the healing brush for the removing background creases or folds? 2) if not, is there anyway I can make it non-destructive to the photo at all, or is this likely to be a last decision editing job in any circumstances? 3) As much as blue is a nice colour, it isn't the backdrop I'd like to use for my wine on my website. I have alternative backdrop colours, but I was wondering if there is anyway I can lay over a full background colour (RGB Hex #FEF0E2) to be more inline with my companies colour palette, whilst retaining that 'professional' photo look about it (i.e slight shadow effect etc. - see shoe photo for example). Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you!
  10. Hello! I'm attempting to remove lines and shapes underneath a complex shape but having trouble doing this. I've been attempting to use the "Divide" command to remove the overlapping segments and then delete those. Which is a bit time consuming and I run into problems because "Divide" will close incomplete line segments, which creates weird shapes. Images: 1-3 illustrate what I'm trying to do: Remove everything intersecting in the grey shape but keep the rest. 4th image is my actual artwork which gets complex so I need to do this efficiently. It also needs to be fully removed (not hidden) because it's on the way to a laser cutter. 5th image is what happens when I "Divide". As you can see the v line segment on the top left closes into a shape. And the bottom line looses a section. Thanks for your help!
  11. Hello community, does someone know how to import .eps file gracefully in affinity designer to edit the vector file??? Thanks
  12. I followed the Affinity tutorial re: replacing the sky. When done there was a white line separating the new sky and old foreground. See photo attached. As a new user and new to editing, I could not figure out where I went wrong. I would appreciate any help. New_sky.afphoto
  13. Is there any way how to basically protect your exported PDF file from Affinity software (mainly publisher)? Or is there any quick alternative? Thank you!
  14. Photoshop users always have access to the arbitrary rotate option, which is intuitive and automatically taken by users to mean the default angle to correct for vertical/horizontal line (horizon) adjustment. There is no easy access to anything as simple as this in the base menu. Is this an add-on or macro required of the product to make it work ? In addition, when I used the NIK correction modules in AP, there is no provision in the layers to show separate (retractable) adjustments like that which could be done in my CS2 CS3 /CS4 Photoshop. It looks like I cannot reverse the change as in Photoshop's smart object.
  15. I'm using publisher 1.7.3 on windows. I was having issues with a white background showing on my page numbers so on some pages I removed the original master test by deleting the text from the master page layer in the master page folder, then realized I can change the master page to delete the white background in the text by doing a factory reset. I couldn't figure out how else to remove the background color on my text. Is there a way to refresh the page so that the master page will reload and fix the pages I tried to adjust or are master pages handled more like instances and each one comes from a parent but can be changed individually? It would be nice if I could reset the pages that use master pages to the original master page from which they came as they are cleared still linked but I don't see where the option to restore them is. I included what my original master page looked like and an example of a page using a master page where I deleted the master page content. If I could click a button to restore to the original master page that would be very helpful.
  16. I am very new to Affinity and am very excited about finding this product. I have been trying to edit a cropped portion of a very old black and white bitmap image. The only image of a sign in the background of a photo taken of my grandparents grocery store. I had been searching for months for a way to edit that one portion of the photo and colorize it to make a print as a gift. I only found Affinity two weeks ago and have been searching on YouTube for tutorials on adding color. I have learned a lot about using vector and isolating each letter but I am not sure how to consolidate the layers of the image to stabilize the color of each character. I have not even gotten to the background. Can I find specific instruction online to help me understand this? Time is not on my side and I need to finish this project soon. I am using Picture and Designer. Any ideas or direction will be appreciated.
  17. Affinity Photo Tutorial | In this video, We will learn, How to apply a blur effect on any photo background like the Expensive DSLR Camera effect. #affinitytuts #affinityphoto #blureffect
  18. With photoshop this is pretty straight forward and I do not know what I am missing. I have a level adjustment and I slide the dark side in. Now I want to paint part of it back. If I use black or white it just leaves gray streaks. Please see videocast. What am I missing? https://www.dropbox.com/s/gjuq2zymnnkl3fc/Recording %23134.mp4?dl=0
  19. The EXIF information is available during the Develop Persona, but not available in the Photo Persona. Can we have an easy way to access the EXIF data whilst editing? Please? AS it is, one must switch modes (Personas) back to Develop to see EXIF data. Whilst editing, some decision are made using EXIF data (e.g.- "How much noise suppression do I normally use for this ISO?", "Did I shoot that at 12mm or 14mm?") Thanks. Walt Palmer
  20. With this recent update the ability to "Alt+Mask layer" within a group has changed. Previously, I would be able to create a layer which allows me to brighten sections, such as the eyes of an animal. Now everytime I do the same process, it goes transparent. Any help is greatly appreciated :)
  21. I have created a Brightness/Contrast adjustment layer and painted over the layer with the gradient tool. Sometime later I want to adjust the gradient. I can find no way to do so. Clicking on the layer in question and then on the gradient tool displays no handles, and clicking with the gradient tool in the document (image) lays down a new gradient. I have tried doing the same thing by creating a mask as a child layer of the Brightness/Contrast layer, then clicking the mask and creating a gradient in it with the gradient tool. I find no way to adjust the gradient on the mask, only to lay down a new one. I just cannot believe that this is not possible and/or not straight forward. Although quite satisfied with @James Ritson's tutorials, https://affinity.serif.com/en-us/tutorials/photo/desktop/video/296616219/ , second use of gradient tool, begs the question, how one edits the gradient on the blur filter when one later wants to change it, especially since, in the first example (atmospheric haze), James makes a point of extolling the advantage of being able to go back and adjust the gradient.
  22. Since Affinity has now a complete package of graphics products I felt it might be time to throw out a possibility for a new version of an old product under the Affinity brand! I'm a big fan of Affinity Designer and "MOVIE PLUS X6" ! I've been using Movie Plus since its inception. I have software from Adobe, Pinnacle and others but none are as versatile as Movie Plus. Its workflow, I find to be, the most efficient and productive of any video editing software. In my humble opinion, with a little updating to handle the newer codecs, it would once again be world class. I would bet there are others who continue to use Movie Plus both professionally and as a hobbyist. So, I just can't imagine that you folks have given up on video editing and authoring after producing such a stellar product.
  23. I have Affinity Photo on my iPad Pro. Update 1.7.1. How do I get all the photo editing options that this image shows another iPad user having?
  24. Is there a way to access/open a group without ungrouping it and selecting ONLY inside that group? In other words, I want to be able to drag-select items inside a group without selecting any elements outside of the group.
  25. Coming from 20+ years using Adobe Flash as my vector editor, I have difficulty with a few concepts in Affinity Designer that are way more complicated than I was expecting. Maybe I haven't figured this out yet, but: - why can't I just merge stacking vector layers into a single shape? Not as various objects in a layer, but joined together as one single shape? - why can't I just select a line-section between two anchorpoints an delete it? (break curve doesn't seem to be the solution for this...) Also I miss options like expand and contract fills(?) Maybe this is part of me getting to know Designer, but for me these are basic features for a vector based editor...
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