firstdefence

Hi in Affinity I used the White balance adjustment filter and also in Pixelmator. All other options turned off in Pixelmator.

I get this result using your settings on my iMac using both Affinity and Pixelmator Pro, Affinity is on the left Pixelmator on the right. Affinity seems a much softer application, whereas Pixelmator is quite garish to my eye.

I made a new document up, this may save you some time if you need to add more sheets or want to do a different piece. So, I made a Master A document, to this Master I added... I added the white rectangle to the top to remove the black line I added a Picture Frame Rectangle (PFR) to hold each image on each page I added the adjustment filters above the PFR, this means any image in the PFR will be affected by the adjustment filters on each page. For the translucent image I added a white rectangle below the PFR, this enables the filters to brighten the translucent image, without this the filters would look like they are not working. You place the images as a child of the PFR on the actual page not in the Master A document. Ysaye - Reve d'Enfant violin solo part - New Doc diff setup.afpub

A simpler tweak to the pages barring the translucent one is to use Brightness and contrast and levels using these settings.

I think I know why your image is faded, I wondered why the image wasn't displaying in the layers panel and noticed I could still see the text but no white, I tried a threshold filter and it did not affect the image so thats when I decided to change the background transparent. if you go to Document setup > Colour Tab and set the background to be transparent you will see the the page image is translucent.

Welcome to the forum @joelbcornette Affinity doesn't tell us what the road map for future releases will be but they have a temporary measure tool so I would like to think that is going to be expanded to permanent and or flexible measurement display whereby you measure an object and when you resize the object the measurements scale to match, only time will tell.

try using process explorer: https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/process-explorer you can dig a bit deeper into whats running.

I find this to be the biggest reason not to use a compound, unless you don't mind a single colour compound.

To follow on from @markw if you use Large Layer Thumbnails it's still very hard to see, if you select the layer and add an FX like outer glow the line can be made to be more visible in the layers panel. You can turn the glow off when needed.

You are in the right place now, If you want to be specific, add tags to your post to help people searching for topics on V2, such as "Affinity Designer V2" or simply "V2"

You would have to know what you did in the first place, this is a bit like the question "Where did you lose it" Ultimately, the saver for this is to be able to save versions easily, which, unfortunately Affinity Publisher doesn't have yet, Mac users have Time Machine if used and I'd urge Mac users to seriously consider using Time Machine; saved my bacon a few times. For Windows users especially, I would encourage Affinity to seriously consider the versions feature and even improve on it if possible. Many a problem with corrupted files, system crashes, or like this accidental formatting (trying to unravel a Gregorian knot) could have been resolved with stepping back a version or two and a lot of consumed time, caffeine, headache and heartache saved to boot.

Two ways to start the import, either Text > Text Styles > Import Text Styles... or from the Text Styles Panel Click on the Burger Menu and select Import Styles... Look for the afpub document you want to import the text styles from, highlight it and click: Open Below is the window that will pop up, by default all of the styles are selected but you can deselect the ones you don't want, the check all is to check for name conflicts and that will be shown in the list, you can simply rename a conflicted style to carry on importing it.

Glad to have helped

Use the shapebuilder tool, change it's action to subtract (-) and click on the bit you don't need.

There is probably a folder with an installer, copying to the HDD should be as simple as dragging the contents of the CD onto the HDD into a folder.