DM1

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Only way at the moment is to open the file you wish to 'place' first ( let’s call this the 'source' file). Then 'copy' this source image using pasteboard under 3dot menu. Once copied, close the file and open the destination image. Go to 3dot menu and pasteboard, select 'pasteboard place source image into destination image. It will create another layer that you can now edit, resize and reposition.

You have pressed the Develop option first yes? What model iPad do you have? In my (limited) experience, usually failure to complete a function in AP can be resolved by closing all other apps (they take up valuable ram that AP needs) also after 'developing' your adjusted raw file, close the file (before exporting). This will save your current changes so you gone have to redo them. Open the file again and try the export. If still white screen, try hard reset of iPad (hold power and home button on together until Apple symbol appears. May take 10secs). This frees up the iPads ram that may be reserved by previously open apps. If it continues to play up, you may need to upload the file for moderators to check. They are really helpful.

Would love to see what the finished article looked like. Does it require a special viewer?

If you open a file stored in Photo, make changes and close the file, those changes are saved in Photo. You can rename the file (via 3 bars) but unless you have a copy of the unchanged file stored elsewhere, it no longer exists. If you have stored it somewhere else you can access and load it back into photo. You now have the original and the modified (renamed) Files stored in Photo. I find it easier to store both original and modified images and affinity Photo Files in my Documents app. It’s easy to move rename etc from there. I can access them from Photo (just choose Cloud when opening) and in the Files app you can then navigate through all the Document app folders to find the Photo file you wish to open. This means I can keep the files local (on my iPad), organised and named as I want them. Saving them to camera roll from AP instead of Documents (or some other filebrowser app) loses all the name info which is a major pain. I also use a WD MyPassport Wireless Pro disk (MPWP) which Can share with Photo and connect wireless to Documents. My 'local' Cloud. It would be nice if Photo could connect directly to the MPWP in the way that Lumafusion does and maybe it will in some future edition. edit. Forgot to mention that if you use 'Save as' you can simply rename the (modified) file to save it to Photo. You now have original and original1 in Photo. You can open original1, make changes and 'save as' original2 and so on.

In this instance, could you not have simply used a flood fill tool and selected desired colour to change background paper colour from white to whatever?

Once you have the Export screen open you have to either OK or Cancel to get out of the screen. There is no other option.

You could try File new then set dimensions and dpi to create a new document. Then open your photo and select Copy, close and open the new file previously made to same dimensions with 600 dpi and paste your image into this new file. Other way is to rescale. To scale an image: 1 From the Document Menu, select Resize. 2 Ensure Resize is set to Document and the Resample option is disabled. 3 Change the DPI to control the number of pixels (dots) which will be printed per inch when your document is printed. Set higher values (e.g., 300dpi) for professional printing. 4 Choose Apply. You will see no change in the image on the page as this procedure only affects the image's metadata. When you first open AP their is a ? mark next to the settings symbol it is the Help file. Tap the ? , type in dpi in search for more info.

If you are using Selection brush set the brush size smaller say 1.5 pixels. Use mode to switch between add and subtract to nudge the selection in and out. The picture is not very high resolution and looks pretty jagged when you zoom in on arms. Makes selection a little ragged.

I think this happens when lots of layers or the iPads available ram is getting low. Did you try closing the project (this performs a Save in AP). Then reopen and retry. If still crashing, try doing a hard reset on the iPad. This releases ram. Press and hold power and home buttons until you see the Apple symbol on screen. Around 10 seconds.

Nice technique for sharpening selection. Now I need to investigate further how to make good use this.

Thanks Stokerg, that works for me Strange that you need to reselect through edit menu but the More method is quicker and easier.

Tap the 3 bars on the main project screen under the photo and rename to suit. I think this has been improved in the beta. When you export it opens the Files app and shows a variety of storage options allowing you to choose where to store the file. I use Documents by Readdle and set up folders for various projects where I can export or save various files but view them too without having to open them in AP.

It is the beta. I have a screen recording showing effect too. Hair.afbrushes CAA8F51E-2B34-4BA3-93C2-3D45A3888F0C.MP4

.... or Documents by Readdle (free). and well supported.

You have 'Touch for Gestures' turned on in Tools/Settings You can turn this off but screen will no longer know difference between fingers and pencil.

On opening screen, picture/project to be removed - tap the 3 horizontal bars and select Close. If just a layer to be deleted, open file. Select layer, tap bin symbol above layers.

I have been making a brush based on an eyelash. What I am unable to understand is how the rotation setting is applied. I have tried variations between 0% and 50% with the setting screen showing the the curve of the eyelash being 'rotaed' as expected. However after applying the setting and going back to photo persona and selecting the brush, the lash is applied with original rotation setting, not the new (expected) setting. What am I doing wrong?

You need to tap on the screen to complete the 'paste/place' of the layer into the project. Once placed, you can resize, rotate, reposition using the handles and the move tool.

affinity Photo for iPad. Touch once for clear screen. Touch again to bring back menus. Maybe touching twice you are simply turning menu off and back on?

I think if there was a poll taken on most desirable new feature, this request would be at the top.

Soon I hope. The beta has a very annoying bug associated with brush colour picker rendering it very hard to use. The beta does have much improved iOS Files integration though and a few other features/fixes. All in all, the developers are doing a great job with AP for iPad. It’s an amazing app.

In the twitch tv example it seemed many more points were added to the gradient map. Does this allow greater tonal control? I have found a few PS tutorials on gradient toning but so far nothing using AP especially on iPad. Do you save your gradient presets on iPad and reuse/retweak? Perhaps an area where Serif could provide a few more presets. The existing ones are too dramatic. Why on earth does the default gradient setting have blues and greens! It seems a terrible place to start. edit. Just viewed the tv showing your work above. Amazing techniques and very helpful. Hadn't realised you could stack gradient maps and use them that way. Also some use of Recolour with Gradient map in eyes. I must try to adapt some of these techniques to the iPad.

I had a play around with gradient maps on the b&w image. I think from a beginners perspective the absence of a colour picker to help set the gradient points makes this more difficult. Perhaps saving a range of presets over time will help but I'd really like to see a colour picker. so far I have used two gradient maps, one for skin tone and one for lips. My process is to create the mask, invert it (to black) and paint in the required areas in white. Then open the tone map settings and try to match colours in highlight area and shadow area with a coloured face placed in the b&w photo for reference. Here's my initial result (just tone mapping) applied.

There is also the mesh warp filter in Filters Studio too which is quite powerful.