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Everything posted by R C-R

  1. Even with objects that would otherwise hide the drop shadow at the sides & top, I can only get that result with a zero radius setting, which produces a hard edged shadow effect that is much different from the more realistic diffuse contact shadow of the Keynote effect. To get a similar contact shadow in AP or AD I have to draw the shadow shape manually & apply gradient, blur, & transparency effects to it.
  2. GraphicsConverter 9 has provisions for editing/adding Exif & IPTC metadata, including copyrights, contact info, & so on. Below are screenshots of two of the tabs accessible from the File > Edit File Info (IPTC) menu item: It costs almost as much as an Affinity app but it does include batch processing, extensive Applescript support, etc.
  3. I see the same behavior with the retail & with the current 1.4.2 beta 4 versions. What seems to be happening (at least with OS X 10.11 El Capitan) is for some reason when calling the plugins while in full screen mode the app is switched to a new Desktop space. I'm not sure why that would create the second plugin window but clearly something isn't programmed correctly. Also, when calling the plugins while in separated mode, everything looks OK & nothing is moved to a new space, but after clicking either OK or Cancel, the document window turns completely black, although the Navigate panel shows the view correctly. This persists even if I switch back out of separated mode. So far, the only way I have found to make the view reappear is to create a new view from the View menu & close the all black one.
  4. Thanks, Oval! I never realized you could click on the triangle to avoid the click & hold delay. I do wish the zone of the icon that did that was a bit larger -- on a 27" screen it is a very small target & difficult to hit quickly.
  5. Click & hold on the other text tool's icon. This works the same way as the shapes & Move/Artboard tools.
  6. As a point of reference, I have the 2012 iMac model shown below. Because I have an old, seldom used copy of Photoshop Elements 9 installed on it, the Nik installer installed a set of plugins in the Adobe PSE support folder as well as in the Aperture support folder & the "Nik Collections" one I created for use with AP. That put the total install size at something north of 5 GB or so & it took around 12-15 minutes to complete.
  7. I have seen something similar, but only when opening some old .eps files. For me, the problem was not that AD was stuck in outline mode; it was that for some reason the objects in these files were on a layer positioned well outside of the document's canvas size. For example, a group of old T-Maker eps files I opened dating from the early 1990's all had canvas sizes of around 60 by 40 pixels, but everything was in a layer positioned at an X value of around 640 px & a Y value of around -1200 px. This put them in the black area outside the canvas, producing the same effect as in your screen shot. The fix was simple: after selecting the layer, with the Move tool selected change both the X & Y values in the Transform panel to 0 (zero) & then use zoom to fit (cmd + 0) to see at least part of the layer in the white canvas area. After doing that, dragging and/or resizing the layer to get everything inside the canvas was sometimes required, but was easily done with the Move tool. If something similar is happening with your files, grouping all the layers together or just selecting them all before applying the X & Y value changes will probably work for you.
  8. As far as I know, the only default for exports in Affinity is the last one used.
  9. Muscroft, keep in mind that camera makers frequently change RAW file formats from one model to the next, so for example there is no guarantee that every FujiFilm camera will be supported (by Affinity or any other app) just because it outputs a ".RAF" file. In general, this is only an issue with the newest camera models, & only for as long as the app (or RAW support built into the OS) has not been updated to support them.
  10. Adding slightly to what MEB said about the install locations, I created a custom folder in Applications named "Nik Collection" before I ran the installer & added it using the plus button in the same way he described in his part 2. That custom folder is what I added to the Plugin Search Folders list in the Photoshop Plugins section of AP preferences. Because the Dfine, Selective Tool, Sharpener Pro 3, & Viveza 2 plugins do not (currently) work with AP & I did not want them to show up in the Filters > Plugins > Nik Collection menu item, I also took the extra step of zipping their subfolders in the /Applications/Nik Collection/Google folder & deleting their unzipped folders. Note: This extra step is not necessary & involves authenticating as an admin user to make these changes; I only mention it here because it does remove those items from the AP menu & does not affect the functionality of the stand alone apps also installed in that custom folder. Also, because I do not have Aperture I deleted the /Library/Application Support/Aperture/Plug-ins/Aperture folder, which saves about 750 MB of disk storage space.
  11. I still prefer the power duplicate method as the most flexible of those mentioned here. For one thing, while the Cog tool method is fine if you want the rays to be closed rectangular shapes, if you want them either to be unfilled curved or straight lines, or to be composed of some other closed shape, it is a no go. Using power duplicate with opposing lines or shapes is fine if you want an even number of rays; otherwise it may require using an offset center point, a bit of simple math, & careful rotation of the first duplicate to get the desired result, something like this:
  12. "It doesn’t save me any time compared to pressing the A key to switch to the node tool." True, but it can save time when using it to toggle between the Move tool & one of the tools that does not have an assigned keyboard shortcut key or one of the ones that share the same key that selects a different one each time you press their shared key. And of course, you often don't need to switch to the Move tool at all, since for tools that display bounding boxes just moving the pointer to an edge of the bounding box, one of its control handles, or its shear points will automatically enable the Move tool function without the need to press any key at all.
  13. Just to be clear about it, there is no "stroke key" as such. All vector shapes have an outline that may be "stroked" with a color other than their fill color. The stroke width can be set to none, making it invisible, or to various widths, & to align with the outline's center or inner or outer edge to get different effects. The stroke & the fill are not two different shapes merged together, just different properties of one shape.
  14. I'm not sure of the exact effect you want but if you are using a star shape as the starting point & you do not want the lines to be joined at their inner ends after doing the Divide, you should set the star's inner radius to something larger than 0% but smaller than the circle's size. That way, the Divide operation will create a set of shapes inside the circle's size & another set outside of it. Use the Move tool to select the inner ones & delete them & you should be left with a set of unconnected, closed shapes outside the circle's size. The deletions will be easier to do if you check the "Select object when intersects with selection marquee" box in the Tools preferences. That way you can draw a marquee with the Move tool starting from an empty spot on the inside set & select several of them at once to delete. This will create closed shapes instead of lines but that may be desirable since you can set their strokes to none & (for example) use fx like Gaussian blur or Outer Glow to get different looks. Another way to do this which works particularly well if you just want strokes (lines) instead of closed shapes is to use the pen tool to create one vertical line with two nodes (using the polygon or line mode of that tool). Move its center point to a location somewhere directly below the lower node & press cmd + J to duplicate it. Using the Move tool's rotate handle, carefully rotate the second line by the angle you want between the lines -- for example 6° for 60 lines for a full starburst or for 30 lines for a ½ starburst. Now keep tapping cmd+J to power duplicate the line 30, 60, or whatever times. There is a simpler way to do the same thing using power duplicate that works for even numbers of radiating lines (or shapes) that involves duplicating the first line, offsetting it & flipping or rotating it as necessary to make a mirror image, & selecting both shapes. This automatically places the center point for rotation equidistant between them, so you can then duplicate the selected pair & use the Shift key to snap the duplicated pair's rotation to some 15° increment & power duplicate from there to complete the starburst.
  15. I'm not sure I understand what you mean, but I'm guessing from your screen shot that you may be confusing a shape's stroke with a second shape. If so, try selecting one of the cloud shapes with the Move tool or in the Layers panel & in the Stroke panel (or the Context toolbar if using the Move tool) set the stroke to None.
  16. I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the V key rotating between tools or having to mash the escape key repeatedly to use it. Except while in text entry mode (where tapping the V key obviously has to be interpreted as entering the letter "v" or there would be no other way to enter any word with a "v" in it) the only toggle function the V hot key has is to alternate between selecting the Move tool & whatever other tool you last used. So for example if you have the Node tool selected & tap the V key, you get the Move tool. Tapping V again returns you to the Node tool. Tapping it a third time returns you to the Move tool, & so on.I do not believe there is any way to turn this off. It can take some time to get used to that behavior but once you do it can be a time saver. Regarding using the Command key as a hot key for the Move tool, this is not possible because many of the other tools already use that key as a modifier, for example with the shape tools to draw shapes from the center, with the Pen tool to temporarily switch to the Node tool, or with the Selection brush tool to toggle on or off snapping to edges.
  17. I don't think so. Like I said, the installer does not seem to install the stand alone versions in the Application Support folder for Aperture, just in a folder you add to the list of install locations so the plugins can be used with Affinity Photo.
  18. Note: I do not own or use Aperture so this is just a guess based on what happened when I installed Nik, but for whatever reason it created & installed a folder in /Library/Application Support named Aperture. Inside that it created a folder named Plug-Ins & in that it installed a series of subfolders with a very different file & folder structure from the folder I created in /Applications that it created for use with Affinity Photo. So from this I suspect the items in the /Library/Application Support/Aperture/Plug-Ins folder will only work with that app, so 'pointing' AP to it will not work. I also noticed that the installer created stand alone application versions of all the filters in the /Applications folder, but not in Library/Application Support/Aperture/Plug-Ins. They have no file menu so you can't launch them & then open a file but you can control click on a Tiff or JPEG file in Finder & use the "open with..." contextual menu to open one of those files.
  19. I think you have discovered a bug -- I get the same sort of behavior when I do your steps 1 through 4 on a test document I created. Regarding inverting masks, you can select a mask layer & from the Layer menu select Invert layer (or just use the keyboard shortcut cmd + i).
  20. "This should not be greyed out (because it has 'Photoshop' in the name...)" The folder name does not need to include "Photoshop." I created a folder named "Nik Collection" in my Applications folder, clicked the plus button in the Nik installer, & had no trouble adding that folder to the list of install targets. Running the installer added a "Google" folder & 9 application files (for the 8 stand alone versions of the plugins -- Sharpener Pro 3 installs there as two apps -- & an uninstaller app) to my "Nik Collection" folder. In AP's Photoshop Plugins preference pane, I simply added Applications/Nik Folder to the Plugin Search Folder list, set Plugin Support Folders to Authorize Global (which may not even have been necessary for these plugins) & checked the Allow "Unknown" plugins to be used option. On restart, AP recognized all the plugins without difficulty. Because I still had a no longer used copy of version 9 of Photoshop Elements installed on my system (the oldest one the collection supports), the Nik Installer showed that app as the default plugin install location. Out of curiosity I allowed it to install the plugins for that app as well, to see what would happen. That resulted in the installation of a Google folder at path /Applications/Adobe Photoshop Elements 9/Plug-Ins/ but none of the stand alone apps there & no HDR Efex Pro 2 subfolder, probably because the installer was smart enough to know it won't work with PSE 9. I'm just guessing but I think this is part of the reason MEB suggested in reply #10 of the News forum topic to create a new folder for the plugins if you don't have Photoshop installed. I don't know for certain if it works the same as with PSE 9 but if it does, this will not install the stand alone app versions, all of which seem to be usable with Tiff & JPEG files if you use the control-click "Open with" option in Finder -- otherwise, because the stand alone versions do not have a File menu there is no way to open these files in them. If you use the stand alone versions this way, be aware that the "Save" button immediately overwrites the original file & does not offer any 'Save as' options so it might be a good idea to make backup copies of the originals beforehand. I also noticed that the Nik installer is a bit sneaky, at least on my iMac running OS X 10.11.4, in that even though I do not have Aperture installed it installs yet another Google folder at path /Library/Application Support/Aperture/Plug-Ins/ -- this one with 7 subfolders, one for each of the plugins that work with Aperture 3.1 or later -- but the contents differ considerably from either of the other two Google folders because Aperture can't use plugins written for Photoshop unless they have an entirely different file structure that app recognizes. This is a big part of the reason why Serif can't do anything about this on their own -- most Photoshop plugins won't work with any other apps (besides Adobe's) unless they specifically have been designed by their developers to be compatible with them. Since Google, not Serif, owns these plugins, Serif can't rewrite them to work with Affinity.
  21. fmlfoto, Considering that several of us have mentioned in one or another of your topics about this issue that we do not see the same lengthy lags you do, even on theoretically much less powerful Macs, that suggests one of two possibilities: 1. There is something wrong with your system, either with the installed software or with the hardware, or 2. There is a bug in the app that only affects certain Mac models or configurations, for example your MacPro with the AMD Firepro 300 graphic card. It might be helpful in determining which (if either) of these is the problem if you would post the complete specs of your MacPro, including which AMD cards are installed & how much onboard memory they have, the version of your graphics driver software, the OS version installed, etc.
  22. Probably not. As has been mentioned in a few of the topics here, it requires the cooperation of the plugin maker to make Photoshop plugins work with other apps -- Affinity can't do it without their help. It doesn't seem likely that will ever happen because Internet rumor has it that Google made the Nik collection free because it is ceasing all development on these plugins, for example as mentioned here.
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