h_d

Hi @h_d,
This is a known issue currently logged with the developers, I've updated the issue and bumped it with your report. 

It depends on how you've 'created lettering'.
You could try:
Use Artistic Text to write the words and colour the text:

Duplicate the layer in case you need to revert. Then select the top layer and Convert to Curves from the Layer menu:

 
Select all the individual letter curves in the Layers panel, then Layers>Geometry>Merge Curves:

 
With the Move or Node tool active, apply a stroke to the merged letter curves from the Stroke pull-down:
 

 
Change the stroke style to Texture Line Style:

 
With the merged letter curves layer still selected, play around with the Vector Brushes until you find something that works for you:

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you!

This process makes a great addition to my armory.

It depends on how you've 'created lettering'.
You could try:
Use Artistic Text to write the words and colour the text:

Duplicate the layer in case you need to revert. Then select the top layer and Convert to Curves from the Layer menu:

 
Select all the individual letter curves in the Layers panel, then Layers>Geometry>Merge Curves:

 
With the Move or Node tool active, apply a stroke to the merged letter curves from the Stroke pull-down:
 

 
Change the stroke style to Texture Line Style:

 
With the merged letter curves layer still selected, play around with the Vector Brushes until you find something that works for you:

 
 
 
 
 
 

It depends on how you've 'created lettering'.
You could try:
Use Artistic Text to write the words and colour the text:

Duplicate the layer in case you need to revert. Then select the top layer and Convert to Curves from the Layer menu:

 
Select all the individual letter curves in the Layers panel, then Layers>Geometry>Merge Curves:

 
With the Move or Node tool active, apply a stroke to the merged letter curves from the Stroke pull-down:
 

 
Change the stroke style to Texture Line Style:

 
With the merged letter curves layer still selected, play around with the Vector Brushes until you find something that works for you:

 
 
 
 
 
 

Yes, I use the vector shapes because of the greater control for recolouring and resizing and relocating. They are just far easier to work with for this sort of block of colour work.
People will use the Pixel Marquee tool and then get all frustrated by problems caused by resizing and or colour not filling to the edges, the edges being feathered etc. ad nauseum.
Vectors are your friends.

Transform panel, also under Window.
My variation on a theme, with a 400px x 400px .aphoto document (it doesn't need the Info panel):
Draw a 100x100 square with the rectangle tool, using the transform panel to set its precise height and width and x and y coordinates. Duplicate it three times, arrange the four squares and set their colours:

 
Select the top layer in the Layers panel, right-click on it and choose Merge Visible. This will create a new all-in-one Pixel layer with your design directly on top of the individual squares:

 
With the Pixel layer selected, go to the Layers menu and choose New Pattern Layer from Selection.
Adjust the size of the Pattern layer to suit:
 

If you decide you don't like it, you can delete the Pattern and Pixel layers, rearrange the squares, rinse and repeat.
 
 

We can all dream.

Settings-Tools-Nudge distance:
 

 
The Modifier above defaults to the shift key. You can change either of the distances and units to suit your needs.
I don't think there are any other options.
 

Without the ends set to arrows or circles, a 0-turn spiral displays nothing.
With them, I get this:

Screen Recording 2025-06-21 at 09.48.00.mov  
.afdesign doc attached.
In the course of setting this up I've had 'the crash' a couple of times with similar settings, both with unsaved documents. When I relaunched Designer, the toolbar, context toolbar, tools and Studio were all hidden. Pressing tab did not restore them - I had to re-display them individually.
spoiral.afdesign

@h_d - same for me ... toolbars etc disappear (hidden) after crash.

I reckon you had the brush opacity set to 20%.

Also worth pointing out that you can get a no-obligation, fully functioning free trial here.

Running macOS Sequoia 15.6, under Settings - General, the default Window background is 52% grey, 100% opaque:

 
(This is a png with transparency in the bottom right corner exported from Affinity Photo 2.6.3).
If you change the Window background  to pure white:

 
 
 
You'll get a better Preview of the transparency.
As @lepr hints, you can also choose Show image background from the View menu:
 

 
With that menu option selected, you can no longer modify the window background colour in Settings.

I would guess it's...

 
Which suggests it's an internal development.

Thank you all this is very good information...
I appreciate the help 🙏 

Running macOS Sequoia 15.6, under Settings - General, the default Window background is 52% grey, 100% opaque:

 
(This is a png with transparency in the bottom right corner exported from Affinity Photo 2.6.3).
If you change the Window background  to pure white:

 
 
 
You'll get a better Preview of the transparency.
As @lepr hints, you can also choose Show image background from the View menu:
 

 
With that menu option selected, you can no longer modify the window background colour in Settings.

'appear' is the key word there.
I too followed the link, entered my email address and nothing seemed to happen, except ending up at the DxO Shop.  I too thought, "Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained."
That was then but...
Today I got an email, all in German, with a link to download Nik 6.  The email also included an activation code.  The first thing the installer Did was to ask for the language I wanted to use,but English seemed to be the default.  It then recognised my Photolab an Affinity Photo installations.  It completed without error and when I opened Photo, all the Nik 6 plugins were available within Photo.
Result!

Would be interested to know how? 🙂 

Trusty old MacBook Pro 2018, 2.9 GHz 6-core Intel Core i9
Memory 32 GB 2400 MHz DDR4
Running Sequoia 15.5

 
Let me know if you need more info.

The name 'Martin xxxx xxxx' is listed under the Artist tag in the metadata.
exiftool -artist /full/path/to/IMG_5294.CR2
Artist: Martin xxxx xxxx
The Copyright and Owner Name tags exist but are empty.
As @Ldina says, you could use Affinity Photo to change this on a file-by-file basis. But if you have many files to change - either replacing an old name in all the other files, or removing it, or adding a new one - then ExifTool is a far better bet, as it can convert them all in one go with a single command. In Affinity you would have to open each file individually, modify the metadata and then save.  Which would be very slow.

I would suggest experimenting with a Curves Adjustment:

Screen Recording 2025-06-08 at 18.09.32.mov  
It's a lot more subtle and controllable than Brightness/Contrast.
 

Metadata is an absolute jungle - it's quite possible that the camera wrote the original owner's name to both Copyright and Artist fields, and that Bridge is displaying one while Affinity Photo displays the other. It's also possible that Bridge is reading from its own .xmp sidecar and that Affinity is reading from the embedded metadata in the .cr2.
The only way to be certain is to use a dedicated metadata reading and editing tool such as ExifTool. 
It's a command-line utility that runs through Terminal. It also has a very steep learning curve. But it will let you modify the metadata within multiple .cr2 files, very quickly and effectively.
If you can upload one of your .cr2s to the forum then I would be happy to run it through ExifTool.

Metadata is an absolute jungle - it's quite possible that the camera wrote the original owner's name to both Copyright and Artist fields, and that Bridge is displaying one while Affinity Photo displays the other. It's also possible that Bridge is reading from its own .xmp sidecar and that Affinity is reading from the embedded metadata in the .cr2.
The only way to be certain is to use a dedicated metadata reading and editing tool such as ExifTool. 
It's a command-line utility that runs through Terminal. It also has a very steep learning curve. But it will let you modify the metadata within multiple .cr2 files, very quickly and effectively.
If you can upload one of your .cr2s to the forum then I would be happy to run it through ExifTool.

Thank you so much !
The detailed explanation really helped, it works ^^