user_0815

For these things I use a rectangle as a mask. If you fill the rectangle with a gradient from a Color o transparent, it will have that effect. You can adjust the gradient in the rectangle anytime by selecting the rectangle and then switching to the gradient tool.

Yes of course, the user should know how the printer works. If I knew the printer's profile and that it accepts cmyk without converting, I'd try that first. When in doubt or if I didn't have the printer's profile, I'd send it as RGB.

IMHO no need to re-do the entire editing in cmyk color. An over-simplified explanation for color profiles is that they are an instruction for a particular device, how to present the color information. You can edit in RGB, which makes sense since a monitor works in RGB (red green blue pixels). For printing, you should export as cmyk as the printer works as cmyk (Ink: cyan, magenta, yellow, black). On export, define cmyk in the export menu and convert to the particular "profile" for that printer you intend to use. (Most printers kan convert RGB images in to their own cmyk profiel on the fly.) In your case it is quite possible that you edited for a good look on your old display. If that display now has a colour shift or some kind of imbalance (not calibrated), you might have editied to counter that. The printer does not have that shift or imbalance, so the image will look different.

Usually for this stuff the Curves or Levels tool works well by using a large soft brush with a very low flow around 1-5. Painting it in takes a while but from my experience it gives very good results. Another way is to use the clone stamp tool in different blend modes like luminosity, saturation, colour or hue. But that can get a bit tricky in some areas. Sometimes it makes sense to combine them.

In my experience, at this time none of the ai selection tools are as good as a well done human made selection. Nether in Affinity nor from adobe or apple. The results also depend heavily on the individual image, the subject, the background and the lighting. Sometimes I use them to get a quick rough selection but usually it's "better" to use the selction tool, flood fill or pen tool and optionally refine it. The more you use them, the quicker and easier it gets imho.

Thank you for uploading that video. Now I understand your request much better. The way you can do the resizing is almost the same. (see video attached) Open the resize menu (Document > Change document size) Uncheck "Resample" and type in your calculated size (or the factor x 0.783 whichever you prefer) to the dpi or Millimeter Click on "Change document size" to confirm. The image on the screen does not change visually but the measurements in mm and dpi are adjusted. Regarding the measurement I could not reproduce any wrong results. Neither did I encounter any errors in this regard in the past years using Photo almost every day. However, getting the pixel dimensions of the wheel is just identical as you are doing in in PS. 1905-.mov

I would be interested in that and if possible please leave a post here so I won't miss it. Also please attach the original fle you are measuring from, so that we are measuring from the same data. (Grabbing a screenshot will result in different measurements.)

I have never come across this kind of issue. However, have you tried using a softer brush for inpainting, cloning etc...? It might avoid these sharp edges. These edges are also visible at the edge of the flower (white on green). Personally I'd do less sharpening but add some clarity to keep a crisp look. Clarity is basically just a form of sharpening but with a larger radius. So other than the clarity adjustment you can also use unsharp mask whith a large radius like 10, 20 50 or 100 px depending on the desired look.

I assume you have checked to embed all fonts on export. To get around the missing text, you could adjust the export settings to not embed the fonts but convert them to curves. That doesn't solve your orignial question but might let you continue your work for now. (Current devices like iPhone should still be able to recognise and copy that text if you need that.)

The upper text has a 0.2 pt white stroke applied to it.

I have done panoramas with up to 50 raw files without crash or overly long lag. No idea why you can’t have 20 raw files open. Sometimes I do work with multiple files open with several GB each, so Photo is actually capable of handling large amounts of data. (M1 max, 64Gb) one lag issue I had was related to the Info panel. If that is open and live filters are used, photo would take minutes to process anything. But I don’t think that applies to the develop persona when opening raw files.

If you bought it in the Apple App Store within 14 days, try to get a refund. Go to the App Store in the section purchased apps. There you can click on „report a problem“. You don’t need to state a reason, just apply for a refund.

Fully agree. With the 3 finger drag you can flick the object by keeping two fingers down and flick with the third one. I often do that on my MBP trackpad for longer distances. The object will roll like a marble. 😄

I used to have an Apple trackpad but found it not ideal for photo editing although it seems to be quite good for other things. IMHO it’s not precise enough for selections, masking and moving etc. (regarding the Apple mouse I have the opposite opinion as the previous posters. I just like it a lot and would not want any other mouse. Except for the charging port of course. )

Also an active soft-proof layer causes test to be rastered.