iconoclast

OK, so I understood right. LUTs should be able to do that, but you need the right ones. LUTs (Lookup Tables) are files with predefined color informations. You can apply them with just one click to an image. A big advantage of LUTS is that you can easily apply the same color look to several images. If you can't find LUTs that fit your needs, you can create your own ones using the color filters in Affinity first and then save the result as LUT (Menu "File", "Export LUT"). Affinity Photo 1 unfortunately had a bug in the LUT function as I last tried it. I'm not sure if it is fixed yet. Even in version 2. As an alternative you can use the G'MIC Plugin. In that case load the source image and the color manipulated result as two layers in one document and use the filter "CLUT from After - Before Layers" to create a LUT. To apply LUTs to images, use the Live Filter "LUTs" or the Studio Panel "Adjustment". In the second case, you need to import the LUTs you want to use into the repertoire of this Filter. After that, they will stay there to be used whenever you need them. Or try the "Simulate Film" filter in G'MIC. The NIC Collection might be a good choice to. I'm not experienced in it. But I heard a lot about it.

Hi Starbase 1! I'm not really sure if I understand what you are looking for, but if I do possibly LUTs could do the job. Affinity Photo has LUT functionality by design. There are already some LUTs in the repertoire. You can add more. You will find many on the Web (also take a look at the Ressources category here on the forums), even free ones. Or you can create your own ones. As an alternative I could recommend the free G'MIC Plugin that has LUTs functions too, and it also has a filter called "Simulate Film", that has a huge variety of simulated photo films (additional ones can be downloaded and added for free), with a lot of adjustments to refine them. You will find the whole stuff in the category "Color" (or by using the "Search" field). By the way, G'MIC contains more than 500 additional filters in differebnt categories. Many of them are really cool.

Absolutely yes! Thanx for your advice, Master Yoda!!!

Hi chillywilly! You have to convert the shape into curves before you can select nodes, because shape objects don't have nodes. So rightclick on the shape and click "Convert to Curves".

Yes, you are right. Sorry, didn't think of it. The reflectivity and also the lighting angle are important too. But if you have a range of textures that fit to the lighting situation, you can place them all as described above and simply toggle between them as you need it. To make a usable texture outoff the round sample above, you could create a seamless tile and then use the function "New Pattern Layer from Selection". Should be good enough, I think. Don't really think that you need a 3D App for it. To create a seamless tile, first cut the sample to a rectangle sample. Then place guidelines to the vertical and horizontal center of it. Then cut the sample to four pieces of the same size, using the guidelines, and interchange the tiles from left to right and top to bottom, so that the cutting edges are on the outside of the document. Then use the Clone Tool (Stamp) to retouche the Seams in the middle of the document. And finally make one layer outoff those four layers and make a endless pattern from this layer.

You could trace the couch with the Pen Tool instead of a selection, then place the texture on a separate layer above the Curve Layer and then drag the Texture Layer on the right area of the Curve Layer (Layer Panel). But be aware that you also have to do a perspective transformation to the texture. You can use the Grid Transform Tool (hope it is the right name for it in English) for it.

Ah, problem solved. I was blind again. It's very easy: you only need to open Photo and it will appear in the list of the apps that can be connected (Opened Programs).

Hi! I bought a Wacom Cintiq and want to connect all my graphic apps to it, to be able to set individual pen adjustments to each of them (pressure, decline sensitivity and so on). But I can't find the concerning file of Photo on my computer. Normally those are exe-files. As far as I know, Affininty 2 doesn't have those exe-files. But there must be a substitute, I think. I'm on Windows 10 with the universal license of the Affinity apps.

I'm not familiar to those blend modes, but Krita has such ones. They are in the category "Binary". Maybe it will give some clearness if you take a look at Kritas Manual: https://docs.krita.org/en/reference_manual/blending_modes.html

Simply drag the Adjustment Layer (the yellow) on the Layer with the glasses to nest it to it. So it will only affect the glasses and nothing else.

I don't really know, but I don't think so. Could be a topic for the Suggestions section.

What about this one: 1. First create the equilateral triangle. 2. Create a straight exact vertical line from its top corner to the middle of its base line. Change the tool to end this step. 3. Click on both layers in the Layers Panel, holding the Shift- key, to select both. 4. Rotate the triangle and the straight line, holding the Shift-key, so that another edge becomes the baseline. 5 Draw a second straight vertical line from the top corner to the base. 6. Repeat it with the last edge. The intersection of the three straight lines should be the rotation center. Place the rotation point there.

Sorry, I'm late. I think, I would do this using the Pen Tool. Simply trace the silhouette of the car with the Pen Tool, fill the resulting shape and drag the layer containing the shape on the small preview thumbnail of the image layer that contains the car. That should do the job. If there are some fragments of the background that must be removed afterwards, you can do that by modelling the curve (click on the tiny arrow on the left side of the layer that contains the car to fold out the layer that contains the curve and click on the curve layer). You can also use a Mask to refine the edges. In that case, click on the Mask Button at the bottom of the Layers Panel to add a mask to the Image Layer. Then paint away the parts you want to delete, with the Brush Tool, using black colour. If you want to restore parts, e.G. parts you deleted by accident, paint them back using white colour. If you set black and white as foreground and background colour in the Colour Panel, you can simply switch between them using the "X"-key. Take care that you are always on the Mask Layer if you want to work on the mask. Edit: There is an alternative way, that may be a bit better. At first trace the silhouette of the car as described above and fill the resulting shape. Then create a selection out off this layer (menu "Selection" > "Selection from Layer"). Invert the Selection (menu "Selection" > "Invert Selection"). Add a Mask to the image layer. Fill the selection on the mask with black colour. Now all areas outside the selection should be transparent. You can remove the selection now (menu "Selection" > "Deselect"). If there are still areas you want to remove, you can do this by painting with black colour on the mask as described above.

In general, it depends on what you want to select. E.G. if you want to select geometric figures, I would use a shape or the pen tool to trace the shape of the figure. This will create the most clean and smooth edges. For more complex silhouettes, I would use the Selection Brush - if the contrast to the background is good enough. In some cases, if even the refinery doesn't work good enough, I use a Layer Mask. With a Mask, you can paint pixels away and back by hand as you need it. And you should be aware of that you can combine all this opportunities.

Usually, digital images have three channels - one for each basic colour of light: RGB for Red, Green and Blue. For transparencies they need a fourth channel, the so called Alpha Channel. Not all file types support this Alpha Channel. E.G., as GarryP already said, JPEGs don't. So they replace transparency with white. PNG is a file type that supports transparencies. But take a look at the PNG export dialogue to be safe.

My two cents: For layouting the texts are usually written in office programs or text editors (I personally use FocusWriter, which is destraction-free and free - donation based) and are saved in a file format that doesn't support formattings. E.g. *.txt. Formattings should better be done in the layout program, because they only cause problems if they are set before. So I would recommend to create the raw text in a text editor and then load it into a text frame in Publisher. That's the usual way as I know it.

As far as I remember, I was asked at the end of the installation of version 2, if I want to import the stuff from version 1 automatically. Can't remember if palettes were affected too. But it was very easy. I'm on Windows 10 and purchased the universal licence from the Affinity Store.

It's at least the most sustainable one.

It depends on if less bugs are a compelling reason for you. Why shouldn't you load this update? It only takes some minutes.

I know what you mean. Its a balancing act, I think. The same, by the way, with some brushes - especially stamp brushes - textures, light leaks, LUTs, macros and other things. It's a kind of "found footage" technique. Like sampling in Hip Hop music. But I think, in case of snow, fog or stars overlays, the creative input of the artist, using this overlays, is big enough, because you can use them in so different ways. I often use combinations of overlays to get certain effects. But it is of course your choice, if you want to use overlays.

Yes, these are the overlays I was talking about. Great stuff! By the way, also the Dreamphography brushes, that are offered in the Affinity Store for free, for owners of the Affinity 2 versions, are really cool. Nobody should miss them. And there are also Snow brushes and Dust brushes included. Very recommendable!

As an alternative to brushes I could recommend overlays. Maybe you can find some on the web for free download. I have several overlays for snow, rain, fog... Overlays are prefabricated pixel images with transparent backgrounds. Usually made out off photographs. Probably there will be some with stars too. And you can easily create your own overlays. E.G. take a look at texturelabs.org. They offer textures for free. And in the category "Atmosphere" you can also find stars, rain, snow, fog... You just need to place them on top of your image and turn the dark parts of the texture into transparency using the Mix Modes (the small cogwheel-symbol on top right of the Layers panel. As far as I remember, Affinity offered some cool overlays (snow, rain and fog) some time ago as an additional giveaway with one of their updates. But I don't know if they are still available.

Yes, of course. I think this thread is good for learning about transparencies of pixels in vector graphics in Designer. But the way you try to create your morning sky is a bit like putting the cart before the horse. In nature, there is the universe with the stars in it as the background. The morning mist is layers of air that overlay it. So it would be not to far from seek to simply put a layer with a gradient on top of your star-spattered sky. It possibly doesn't matter in the end, but sometimes such skewed decisions make things more complicated as they need to be and cause problems you don't think of.

OK, I'm glad to read that you found your solution, but if I understand right, you wanted to create this sort of morning mist, like in Jimmy Jacks screenshot, right? Why don't you simply create a layer with a gradient from light blue up to transparency? Would have seemed much more natural, wouldn't it? And it would be easier to handle.

This page talks about the Fill Tool, not the Transparency Gradient Tool (don't know its english name at the moment). Two different things. See this page: Transparency.