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Are you using the exact same photo on both your Macbook and iMac? If not, the liquify tool can work in reverse depending on which way up the device was held when taking the photo. See my reply at the bottom of the following link: Opposite effects in Persona Liquify?! If it's the same photo, have you flipped the image at all, because that can also cause it to work in reverse.

It does, although re-reading it I think maybe I misread the original post. I don't think the Austin A30 is referring to this pic, but is referring to another pic that the poster is working on too.

Are you sure that isn't a Morris Minor?

No the 'Date Taken' field in the EXIF metadata needs to be added when the file is first created and then remain unchanged, as it's the only constant date we have. To overcome your issue you'll need to sort by the 'Date Modified' column as the 'Date' column won't do what you want it to do.

I am unable to reproduce this on Windows 10 either. Exporting the file as a JPEG results in the 'Date Modified' timestamp being updated each time I export it. There are multiple dates in Windows File Explorer (Date, Date Created, Date Modified, Date Accessed, Date Taken), which can be added by right-clicking on the column title bar. The 'Date' field doesn't use 'Date Modified', but will instead use 'Date Taken' from the EXIF metadata if it's present (If it was created by the camera, image editing software, etc.). If there is no 'Date Taken' info, then it will use 'Date Created'. Is it possible that the column you're looking at in Windows File Explorer is just labelled 'Date' and hence why it doesn't appear to be updating? I've previously made a feature request here for files created in Affinity software to include 'Date Taken' timestamps though, because Date File Created, Date File Modified and Date File Accessed fields, have always been a PITA when data is shifted around.

Yeah, I can't get used to using the right mouse button that way either.

How you explained it is how it should be working. Is the opacity for the white brush set to 100% in the colour panel?

It may be worth running the Microsoft tool as per Post No.2 in the following link. Can't Install/Uninstall

On Windows with a mouse you need to do the following (with the brush tool selected): 1) Press and hold ALT 2) Click and hold RIGHT MOUSE BUTTON 3) Click and hold LEFT MOUSE BUTTON 4) Drag the mouse left/right for size, up/down for hardness

The year is 2060, Serena gets into the driverless car which arrives at the same time every day to take her to the Elon Musk building where she works as an engineer on the Lisbon to Rio vacuum train project. In a brief intermission between the mandatory Google ads, she turns to a fellow passenger and says "Hey remember the good old days when we used to buy and drive our own cars"...

I think the OP is referring to this, which is present when using both a graphics tablet or mouse. Video: Affinity Brush Preview.mp4 (file no longer available) Unfortunately you can't disable the static outline. You can go to Edit > Preferences > User Interface > and untick 'Show Brush Previews', however it disables the wrong preview IMO. It disables the real-time brush view (which is the useful one) and keeps the static outline (which is the annoying one that most people want to disable).

In the Ethiopian calendar maybe...

I'm not sure what this bit refers to? Do you mean the 'Save as' dialogue box? When you go to File > Save, it will save it to the last location that you saved a file. If that location is not there any more (I.E. You have since deleted the folder), it will default to User Folder > Documents. (Although I've also seen it default to C:\Windows\System32 before. No idea why). If it isn't a new document that you created from scratch (I.E. You open a JPEG/PNG/TIFF, edit it, then go to File > Save), it will write back over that same file unless you choose 'File > Save as' instead. Try creating a new document in Affinity Photo and go to save it. The 'Save as' dialogue should show you the location where it saved the last one. Alternatively, open Windows File Explorer, go to 'This PC' and paste ext:afphoto in the search box in the top right. This will search for and list all files with the .afphoto file extension on your computer.

Now confirmed for 17 October. https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2017/09/windows-10-fall-creators-update-and-cheap-vr-headsets-launch-october-17/

Just out of interest, is there a valid reason for Google to request that all PNG's be 32-bit, even image files that don't contain any transparency?

+1 As the Number keys (1 to 0) are already set for opacity, I think Shift + Number keys should adjust flow.

True, however the 1709 update could be released at the beginning of the following month (such as 03 October), rather than say 05 September.

Correct. I clean installed the Windows 10 (1703 update) on a machine that had Affinity Photo installed on it. There was no need to deactivate Affinity Photo. I wiped the C: drive, re-installed Windows 10 Pro, then installed Affinity Photo again using the email address and product key from the below store link (They are listed under 'Downloads & Product Keys'). Affinity Store Link: https://affinity.store/account/ If you're going to re-install Windows 10, if it's not urgent whereby you need to do it right away, it may be worth holding off a little while as the second major update of this year (the 1709 update) will be released soon. You may as well install that version when it's released to the public, but it's up to you as I don't have an exact date when it's going to be released.

Invented by Chuck Norris apparently. How come you get to be an "Advɐncəd Məmbər"?

You can set your own default font. Create some text, change the font to Comic Sans and go to Edit > Defaults > Save.

In the past I found 'Placing' a PDF instead of opening it makes a difference. See my post here: Opening PDF With Missing Fonts (CIDFont+F1, CIDFont+F2, etc.) Does that mean this is indeed a bug?

It seems other people have answered your question with regards to vectors. So this is just for info really, if it were all pixel based (I.E. You just had pixel line work and wanted to create a new colour layer from it), after using the Flood Select tool you can go to Select > Grow/Shrink Selection and increase the selection by a couple of pixels. That way as long as your colour layers are below the line work layer, when you fill the selection with a flat colour, the edges will be underneath the line work and therefore you won't see the white gaps. Once the flat colour is applied, then clip a new layer to it and whatever you do to it will stay within the constraints of that layer.

If you clean install Windows and choose not to keep your data, just ensure you have backups of all your files, program installers, etc. on a separate drive first, because everything will be deleted. Then it's a case of transferring all your files back on to the computer from the backup drive afterwards and re-installing any software. It's worth being prepared for this type of scenario regardless because if you don't have backups and your computer is stolen or the harddrive suddenly fails then anything that was stored only on the machine would be lost. Strictly speaking, more than one backup because when the PC is wiped, then you're back to only one copy of your data until you transfer it back on to the computer, which means you're back to hoping the backup drive doesn't fail. It also gives you the opportunity to test out Schrodinger's backup theory - "The condition of any backup is unknown until a restore is attempted." Looking at the 'close' buttons in the dialogue box screenshots you posted, it looks like it's no longer running Windows 8.1 and has been upgraded to Windows 10. If you do a 'Fresh Start' (see below) you shouldn't need to enter a product key. With computers that came with Windows 8.1 and 10, the product key is stored on a part of the computer (ACPI tables) that doesn't get deleted. The activation servers should also know that the machine has a 'Windows 10 with Digital Entitlement' licence and automatically activate. When installing Windows from a USB Stick you can enter the Windows product key when installing Windows, but if you press 'I don't have a product key' instead (if for example you have problems) it doesn't matter too much because it will activate when it boots into Windows and connects to the internet anyway. If you don't enter a product key during installation though, you need to ensure you select the correct version of Windows to install (Pro or Home). Windows 8.1 has 'Refresh' and 'Reset' options, but as your screenshots look like Windows 10 ones, the below link contains a Windows 10 step-by-step guide that will allow you to see what's involved with two 'Fresh Start' options on current build (15063 - Creators Update): Link: Fresh Start Windows 10 I don't use the above method as I prefer using the Windows Media Creation Tool to create a USB stick with the Windows installation media on it and boot from that. This works better if for example you want to completely clean install upgrades on multiple machines, as you can do them all with the same USB stick. Is also has the added advantage that if something were to go wrong, it enables you to just format the entire OS drive and start again as the installation media is stored on the USB stick rather than on the computer's drive itself. It's not as user friendly though, but it's straight forward enough if you know your way around the computer's firmware, how to enable/disable secure boot, change boot order, etc..

I would re-evaluate what you're installing on your machines if you're experiencing this.

Are you aware that instead of 'File > New' you can use 'File > New From Clipboard' instead?