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Hi. I have a lot of old 35mm negatives and wanted to find out if there is a way to print them using Affiniti and a Flat Bed Scanner.

When I scan they are very dark, but that may be recoverable. When I try to invert Brown negatives they go very blue. 
I wondered if there were any Plug Ins or Presets that would invert correctly. 

Regards

Mike

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You really need a negative scanner for this, where the light source is behind the negative.
The light needs to actually pass through the negative and then be converted into an image.
In normal flatbed scanners the light source is in front of the image being scanned and is bounced off it and then converted into an image.
If you only need to do a couple of negatives you could DIY something with some white paper, a window and a tripod mounted camera on a bright day.
But really if you have a lot to do then a proper negative scanner is the way to go.

Once you have good scans of the negatives, then yes you could then use Affinity Photo to "process" and to print them.
There are lots of good videos on YouTube showing how to convert negatives into images and worth taking some time to watch a few.

 


macOS 10.14.6  15" Macbook Pro, 2017  |  4 Core i7 3.1GHz CPU  |  Radeon Pro 555 2GB GPU + Integrated Intel HD Graphics 630 1.536GB  |  16GB RAM  |  Wacom Intuos4 M

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A proper film/negative scanner has the advantage that it comes with software which will deal with the orange mask in colour negative film. Some come with software that also helps remove dust and scratches. If you have a lot of these negatives, than a film scanner is a good investment.

John


Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.8,5 Designer 1.8.5 and Publisher 1.8.5 (mainly Photo), now ex-Adobe CC

CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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To scan negatives/positive films you need to have a dedicated film scanner (nowadays there aren't many models on the market: I think Plustek is the only remaining manufacter) or a flatbed scanner with the option to scan also films; I'm using an old Epson Perfection V330 Photo and the quality of the scanned negatives/positives is good. The corrisponding upgraded model you can buy today is the Perfection V370 Photo if you don't want to spend a lot; with this model you can scan  4 mounted positives or 6 negatives in one scanning operation; keep in mind that if you want to achive the maximum quality from your negatives (4800dpi with my scanner) it will take a long time to scan them (a single photo/negative is about 2 minutes scan, and before scanning you have to visually check and eventually clean the negative from the dust (not an easy task). Hope it helps

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@Mike Barnes

I would fully endorse what @Claudio60 has written.  I actually use an Epson V550 scanner for precisely this kind of work.  It is not cheap but, in my opinion, well worth the money if you have a large number of slides and/or negatives to scan.

HTH

Jeff


Win 10 Pro, i7 6700K, 32Gb RAM, AMD Radeon R7 360 and Intel HD530 Graphics

 

Long-time user of Serif products, chiefly PagePlus and PhotoPlus, but also WebPlus, CraftArtistProfessional and DrawPlus.  Delighted to be using Affinity Designer, Photo, and now Publisher.

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Thank you all for your answers. They are greatly appreciated even though they haven't resolved the issue the way I would have hoped. But that's technology. There were some good suggestions though. Fortunately I've remembered I have an old pc still running Windows 7 and I have a scanner for that so I will have to use that.

Thanks again to you all

Mike

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Converting the scan of a color negative that has scanned as a positive, either with a scanner or with a digital camera, is a challenge. Generally, a dedicated film scanner or flatbed designed to also work with film will come with software that can do a decent job of handling the job. Each type of color negative film requires slightly different adjustments and new negatives require different tweaks from what's require when working with old negatives that may have shifted color with age.

There are a number of threads on the topic over on the Rangefinder Forum (RFF) that discuss the issue. This one is typical: https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163214

I've read many of these and contributed to a few. In general, thought, they are written in Photoshop-ese and will require a little translating to APhoto methods. The general trend of the methods is to first Invert and then adjust Curves on a channel by channel basis.

 

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