markw

When something is converted to a Text Path, the “path” part should become invisible when not selected, even if it had a stroke size & colour applied before. Could it be possible that you have a duplicate of the line used for the path before it was converted to a Text Path. And it’s the duplicate that you are still seeing?

Assuming you are using Photo, to do this you will first have to remove all areas of the image that need to be transparent. You may also need to go to; Document > Transparent Background in the Menubar and make sure that the entry 'Transparent Background' has a tick next to it to. When ready, in the Export dialogue window choose PNG as the export format.

You can use Quick Mask for this. See my post in another thread about this here:

If after the HSL you still want to remove more, then the Clone brush and Inpainting brush can be used to good effect. If you put a Pixel layer above the image and work on that with the brushes set to use ‘Current Layer & Bellow’ the Cloneing and Inpainting will be totally non destructive and easily reversible.

Yes, that also works for me too.🙂

How did you make the example files? What works for me is to go to the Bootstrap icon repository you linked to, and; Choose an icon. Copy it’s code using the ‘Copy’ button provided. Open Designer, then; File > New from Clipboard Or if you have an existing document open that you want to add them to; Edit > Paste.

At the top of FFT window you will see that you can also control the other parameters of the brush that you are using, not just it’s size. Adjusting these for use in different areas will sometimes give a more nuanced control over what is happening to the image. I also prefer working with the ‘Split View’ option selected to see what effect I’m getting in different areas of the image. The “Raster Crop” near the beginning is just the regular Crop Tool in Photo, just to get rid of the majority of the unwanted pixels surrounding the oval area. The actual oval "crop" was done with an elliptical Curve shape dragged onto the image to act as a clipping mask. If you go to the beginning of the History and click on each entry in the History Panel you can effectively “play back” the steps to see what’s happening. Although I didn’t do it in my examples, I would agree with the others here that in general, setting your working file to 16bit at the start will give you more tonal values to work with and reduce the risk of “banding” in any large areas containing tonal gradients. (Although in these two images that is not too much of a concern). When restoring old or damaged images a lot of it is experimentation as you go. The more you do, the more successes you will have with the individual steps and so the library of steps you can try on the problem areas of any new images increases. And whilst it’s rarely ever as easy as always do; A followed by B, C & D = done! You will begin to develop a general "feel" for the rout you want to take and what steps might be needed to get you there.

Running the FFT Denoise filter first on this particular photo of the rice growers could help it. There is definite patterning on the original that could be removed using FFT that's still present here. The filter can take some practice but I think it could remove more of the patterning still. Attached are two processed images from your other thread about these images, with saved history so you can see what I did. Hopefully they may give you some ideas. One thing I would also add about the FFT window, for some reason it always opens zoomed in? So I find expanding it as large as practically possible and zooming it out helps, so I can see the whole FFT "canvas" which makes “painting” in it a bit easier and more precise. Archive.zip

Hello photolover and welcome to the Affinity forum🙂 Go to; View > Show Context Toolbar and it will pop right back! On a side note you may want to change your user name to something other than your email address.

If all other options are failing, can you physically transfer them via a memory stick?

Hello nsherris and welcome to the Affinity forums🙂 An easy way? Probably not from the sounds of it. But we really need to see what you have to work with. As you have only just joined here you possibly need to make a post or two more before you can attach things to your post. Not sure?

OK, no worries🙂, it looks like you have closed Affinity Photos window. But not Quit (Close down) Affinity Photo (You can see that AP is still running by the small black dot under it’s icon in the Dock). All app windows can be closed by clicking on the red traffic-light button (found in the top left corner of any Mac app) or by cmd+W the standard shortcut for closing an app window on Macs. In general, if an app is incapable of displaying more than one window at a time clicking the red button will also Quit the app. The Affinity apps respect this convention but not all apps do and it can sometimes lead to confusion! If you want to Quit AP then right click on it’s icon in the Dock and choose Quit. If you want to continue working with AP then you will need to choose which ever file you want from the file thumbnails at the bottom of your screen. Or use File > Open Recent… Or use File > Open (cmd+O) to start editing a new image or existing AP file. Or File > New (cmd+N) to bring up the New Document window.

Sounds like you have the UI in Separated Mode. In the main Menubar at the top of the screen go to Window > Separated Mode. It’s a toggle, so if it has a “tick” next to it you are in Separated Mode. Clicking it again will bring the UI back into one unified window.

It looks like you have hit the Tab key which hides the interface. Try hitting it again to bring it back. Once the UI is back you can then hit Cancel or Develop as you see fit.

Yes, you can control brush size and some other brush attributes using the Wacom Pen, see my post here: And if you are on Windows this other thread may also be of help: https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/114267-unable-to-adjust-brush-size-with-drawing-tablet-pen/

Just a little friendly forum admin point here, it’s probably better that you don’t use your email address as your forum name. You can change it under your ’Account Settings’, found top right corner of a page when you are signed in. Have fun learning the Affinity software and always feel free to ask any questions, there’s always people here willing to help😎

So, this is possibly not the best or most elegant way of cleaning up your image, I basically just kept throwing masked adjustment layers at it! But it might give you a simple starting point and ideas as to what can be done with just adjustment layers. And we still haven’t touched on what could be done with the Clone tool, Inpainting, Patch tool, etc… So many possibility’s to explore! Lockdown makes work for idle hands! Double Exposure Fix Test.afphoto.zip

You could use the Mesh Warp Tool and just move the 4 default corner nodes to true it up a bit. I would only add that if the images are originally hand painted and these "framed" ones are going to be used for sales purposes then I would be inclined to leave the image undistorted so as to give a truer representation of what a customer would receive.

If you open Font Book on your Mac you can see exactly what font variants are available for that or any other font. But if it’s the Chalkboard font that comes with Macs then no it doesn’t naturally come in an italic flavour.

Let me first say, I have no idea how well this monitor performs connected to a Macbook Air or in general for that matter! But if you are on a tight budget then something like this BenQ might be worth a look?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/BenQ-BL2420PT-Designer-Adjustment-Animation/dp/B00UAMYTR8/ref=pd_di_sccai_4/261-7224111-3644214?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UAMYTR8&pd_rd_r=68a05f96-7cb0-4e21-aca5-a0b0a96f0231&pd_rd_w=8OnVQ&pd_rd_wg=NhE6b&pf_rd_p=08710768-875d-48b8-9dd1-e960a266ba51&pf_rd_r=N8BHVB2X8AAGHF5TPCSN&psc=1&refRID=N8BHVB2X8AAGHF5TPCSN

True, but it was more the fact that it has, overall, fewer pixels to work with than the 2,073,600 that would be in an HD display, is what I was meaning.

On the face of it the screenshots look as expected, bearing in mind that of course any screenshot will be made up of just pixels! However I do wonder whether your screen resolution is perhaps a factor? 1440x900 would make it less than true HD which is actually 1920x1080. This might also explain why you are seeing this in the rendering of objects in your other graphics apps.

The Winding trick usually works for me. However the curves you have done stubbornly refuse to play nicely? I have no idea why! However if I redraw them, then it works as expected. So maybe just ditch those two curves. XorArtifact-markw's-Test.afdesign

User Jaffa reported this last summer: I commented there that I too have this happen at times in v1.7. Though it never happened to me in v1.6. I still have it at times in v1.8 But as yet I have found no consistent set of circumstances or steps that always make it happen. I know, not what any developer wants to hear!

Or, if you really need to use 'Merge Curves' to maintain the separate paths in one curve, change the 'Fill Mode' of the newly created curve to 'Winding'. Layer > Fill Mode… > Winding.