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  1. It’s been 2 years since the last time I seen someone ask about this…. Is it still not possible to align 2,3,4 layers already opened in a document without exporting all of them separately and then using them to open a new stack document just to have them aligned? This really messes up my workflow as I wanna just import some layers, align them without any mathematical blending modes (Median, mean…) I want to use them to make layer masks and object removal like the guy in this video https://youtu.be/G_DhvUxeMHw . If it’s still not possible, please…I know this amazing adobe killing team can do it!
  2. First order of business: I love the updates, big thanks to Affinity and Serif for the hard work! Onto the suggestion: Currently, I can batch RAW files to .afphoto files, but they are embedded with huge file sizes and no option to make them linked instead. To convert RAW to .afphoto as linked files, I have to individually save each one. This is a problem for my workflow. Also, when merging for HDR or Stacks, I cannot use .afphoto files as the source. This requires me to batch out intermediate TIFFs first, which eventually get deleted and seem like a wasteful extra step. For context: I shoot a lot of bracketed photography, mainly for HDR but increasingly for focus stacking. Currently, for a 5-bracket shot, I have to manually open and save each of the 5 exposures. With larger photosets following multi-day trips, this is going to be extremely cumbersome. Bonus points: I would love to be able to add text to the end of a filename (e.g. "_Edit") when batching, but that's a much lower priority than the requests above.
  3. hey guys, I have a special question. lets say I have to similar pictures (same crop/same background/done with a tripod). Difference of the 2nd picture is an extra subject on it. >> is it possible to extract the subject from the background, so that I just have the subjact standing alone? In the uploaded example pictures I want to have the coffee-cup without the background. thank you alot. greetings patrick
  4. Hi, I shot some photos and stacked them together to a manipulation. I used several methods like photo stacking, crop, perspective warp, color changing, create shadows, selective exposure and dodge & burn. I wish you fun with this video und feel free to show your results and ideas. Ciao Jack
  5. So ages ago I asked about using Photo's stack function to generate aligned images for an animated GIF. All the hints were about using the slices in the export persona. But I never got the crop to work on all the slices. I have seen similar questions and answers since then. Today I tried again, looked through answers and one thing finally gave me the hint I needed: Rasterize & Trim, that finally resulted in an applied crop in the slices for export. So if you do not use Rasterize & Trim your slices will not have applied crops, it looks like this: But if you painstakingly apply Rasterize & Trim to all the layers, then you see an applied crop in the export persona and everything is fine: Any ideas on how to apply "Rasterize & Trim" to all layers in one go? And just for completeness a hint on the GIF generation: ImageMagick is very easy, but also very inefficient, so I switched to FFMPEG which produces GIFs that are half the size in a much shorter time: ffmpeg -framerate 4 -pattern_type glob -i '*.png' out.gif Note, I use PNGs, with JPGs I had artifacts. cheers afx
  6. Photo 1.9.0932: Crashing with "New Stack" 2two X3F files I have two handheld X3F RAW files that I like to stack for more dynamic. Even with no options selected Affinity crashes. I have no clear idea why. I am aware that X3F (Sigma Foveon) is some sort of niche format. The alignment should be sort of OK, there is water in the image though. It's a bit of a rhetorical question, I can probably work fine with a single image. But I had also here and then crashes with ARW (Sony) images. Each RAW is about 50Mb https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U-kCKuUMN6_ijKoZvon-fbXNNTT1usJY/view https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RnfJ4wtfeX5c9MzWEneuR1DPqOcB2H4Y/view
  7. The Stacking option under File->New Stack etc. is great, what I really wish for though, would be the option to do this with already loaded layers and also the stacking tool taking any masking into account. This is vital when stacking milkyway images, since it usually aligns to the foreground and not to the stars, which can be compensated for when you mask out the foreground. Cheers
  8. I used the stack function to eliminate people from a scene. However quite a number is still visible, albeit translucent, ghostlike. Some are completely eliminated. Those who did not move are clealy visible as they should. How can I get rid of the ghosts?
  9. 99 jpeg shots stacked with Affinity Photo
  10. I am having problems with Stack Merge ... showing what appeared to be alignment problems but it looks more like ‘leakage’ through upper layers. I’m using 6 image from a tripod at varied distances ... at f2.8. (NOTE: A one-shot F16 captures fine, shown below, without the leakage.). Here are comparable images ... look for the leaf leakage in the second shot, in the black vertical rail posts, with background leafs showing through. What’s happening here? How to correct it? Program bug or me? This is on an iPad Pro with iOS 12.2. Thanks.
  11. Hi I am new in photography and using Affinity as well. I experiment with my camera and multiple focus points and multiple exposure . I am wandering using Affinity, what is the best way to create a very clear landscape photo with great DoF and to be HDR. The steps I have in my minds is: 5 different exposures for each exposure 9 different focal points then on Affinity I am thinking to merge the focal points first (grouped by exposure) , so I will get five new photos where each one now includes all focal points but has different exposure then I will do the HDR merge is this a right approach ? and how I control/decide the correct DoF (lets say is a landscape or night skyscrapers wig water in front or stars) many thanks
  12. I would like to stack several images together but still have complete access to the underlying layers. I'm taking close up photos of flowers in the field, using several images to produce one composite that is acceptably sharp throughout despite the handicaps of having a moving subject. I take a series of close ups of the different parts of a flower and then stitch them together. I've tried using the Stack option but the image that is produced is often missing part of my information since the images do not line up one in front of the other and the resulting image has a non-standard aspect ratio. I've also tried using the Panorama option but here, I cannot find a way to access the layers and their layer masks individually. I've seen the brushes that allow you to paint in a mask, but find them extremely difficult to use since a good part of each image is hidden behind another. Since the flowers move as I'm often having to do this outdoors in windy conditions, Focus Merge yields too many ghosts. Any ideas? I would like to have a stack or panorama of images which shows the all the image information that I have and also the underlying layers. I can do this is PS photomerge if I uncheck the option to merge the images together. How could I accomplish this in Affinity? Thanks!
  13. Hello dear people, I'd like to retouch a bunch of photos (resize/crop/contrast), all in the same way, and then export them efficiently (like not one by one). Is there a trick? With file->New Stack, I managed to do the retouching-part, which gave me a "Live Stack Group" in the layers panel. (Is this a "normal" layer with childs?). Now I am searching a way to export all single images from this Stack Group. efficiently. like not one by one. Is this even possible? Or maybe you would know a different way to go about it? TL;DR : Who knows a way to export several layers as independent pictures with "one move"? Thank you!!!! EDIT : I think I FOUND SOMETHING that works, via export persona and using the layers as slices... looks promising. sorry for the fuzz
  14. Hi all, I've no idea how I call this. But what I want to do is create a graphic stack it on top of a duplicate. Like a pile of papers. Now I want to give each graphic (or paper) a border which will cut out on the layer below. I've tried to create an image that would explain what I'm trying to do. Image 1: is the object with the 'cut away space (green) for the below image' Image 2: duplicated objects Image 3: the top object will 'cut away' on the bottom one Image 4: should be the intended result On a white background this is easily done with a white border around the object. See image 4, but what I need is that all that is white is transparent. Any ideas or suggestions?
  15. Hi, I'm looking for a quick workflow to using an image stack to improve mainly sharpness and also noise. By quick workflow I mean something like the hdr-stack, which is suitable for daily tasks. All hints are welcome!
  16. Hi, just as I like this software and need to share some stuff, here are 2 or 3 pictures using stacking (panorama, and stacks) some effects have been applied with Nik Collection (HDR effects)
  17. Sometimes one or another source gets a wrong alignment or some other distortions after a stack. Is there a way to either realign one picture source or delete it from the finished stack entirely without remaking the entire stack from start? I'm aware of the clone brush editing and that is not the question. Cheers! /Pac
  18. Hi, I mocked up a few ideas that I think would improve the functionality of the Photo merge tools by making it easier to switch between them and add images directly. Say you drag a few images into one of Photo's merging tools, only to realize you opened the wrong one. The commands are grouped in the menu, two have keyboard shortcuts right next to one another, and the tools have similar layouts, making this a fairly easy mistake to make. Rather than having to hit Cancel, open the intended merge tool, then relocate the images you want to merge, what if you could just switch to it, with the images you added still in place? The functionality of the Batch tool seems different enough to warrant it remaining separate. To keep the various merging options visible to the user, it might be best to keep their individual items in the File menu. Each would just open the unified interface to the appropriate tool. It would be great to be able to drag-and-drop directly to the Images pane rather than having to open the file picker, then drop to it, then click OK. The visual styling of the window widgets is a bit confusing; the brighter widgets are disabled. This is contrary to most GUI conventions, including how the OK button is disabled in the tools themselves. If the Panorama tool isn’t resizable because the panorama previews would have to be re-rendered (a processor-intensive task), just fix the width of the preview pane while allowing the Images pane to expand. There is some ambiguity in the Panorama tool when you have stitched multiple panoramas together. If you don't explicitly select all of them in the preview pane before you hit OK, only the last selected one will build. A different button label or counter tallying how many panoramas will be rendered (Render 2 Panoramas) might be sufficient. NTH: a way to tell which images constitute which panorama after the panorama preview is generated. This could look something like the mockup below. Ideally, the number displays next to the panorama preview would handle discontiguous stitches nicely, so if you used three of 4 images out of sequence, something like “1 – 2, 4” would appear next to the thumbnail. Originally posted to my weblog.
  19. Hey guys, I am hobbyist user, so it's not a great deal if you cannot help me. I am trying to stack several photos, but to have the opposite of "object removal using stacks". I have four photos taken from the same point with my two friends sitting at the table and exchanging position between each shot. What I want to achieve is to have each of them several times in the final image. If I use Median stacking, then almost everything disappears from the photo with only table remaining and some ghosting. So I need to use masking, but that's where it gets a bit complicated. I tried Outlier stacking but that produces some artefacts and needs a bit refining, for which I also need some masking. For the stack I have live stacking checked. So I guess the question is how to most efficiently create masks from and for each stack layer? I figured I would select part of the one friend on one photo, e.g. hand, head and part of the body, and then I would apply the resulting mask to all other photos in the stack. But I would need to add all masks for all body parts to all photos... So that makes it a bit daunting. Not helping is that when I Alt-click on a layer and start selecting using Flood select tool that the selection outline is shifted several pixels to the left in comparison to photo itself. Also, I cannot get the tolerance to right amount; it always selects something from the background or not enough of what I need. Also, which blending mode would suit me the most? Do you have some other suggestion how to achieve what I want? Thanks! P.S. I've found that if I stack only two photos and then use Standard deviation as the stack operator that produces black areas where the photos are the same and some type of blending in the areas where there are differences. That seems like a good starting point for a mask. How to create a mask from such stack result?
  20. Dear Affinity Staff, Thank you so much for Affinity Photo for MacOS! The 1.5 update is absolutely amazing! I hereby request the addition of another stacking operator, namely a mode (or type) value stacking operator. This operator would choose the most common value for each pixel in a stack. (I hope that I am not hereby double posting such a request) Let me give a background: I am working with projects involving trying to remove moving subjects in city shots, for example a series of shots at a very crowded crossing in Tokyo. Even with 70 shots, median still gives a poor result. I am guessing that the fact that the crossing is almost black and white means that the median values will not always be one of the background pixels, but instead someones jacket, or what not, that is more middle grey in tone. Now I think that the possibility of having photos not choose mean or median, but the mode value (most common value), of each pixel, could be handy in such situations. Suppose that for a specific pixel in my stack, only 10% of the images would actually show the background, and that, moreover, it would be at an extreme value (either black or white). Then both mean and median would fall short, but a mode value would then probably still give the correct result, and remove the ghosts, since these would all be random values. Now, I guess there are some troubles here, of course, like the fact that most probably, the ”correct” background pixel value would be slightly different in each frame. But I guess that you guys could come up with some smart way of working around this, like allowing for an interval around the mode value to be distinguished from the other (incorrect) values, and then e.g. choose the mean value of of this range of values. Or something like that. I hope to see such an operator in a future update. Thank you again for a wonderful app, that just keeps getting better in a quick pace! Best wishes from Sweden!
  21. Here’s some of my photo manipulation done in my love: affinity photo for iPad dont challenge me here, because I care less if your work is better than mine, rather I care if you yourself like your work as well as mine to share with me and all who feel the same describe your techniques, how long it took, anything original about your workflow... leave SE your raw assets if you want, let’s create a discussion about improving how we use affinity
  22. I am trying to auto align a set of photos (handheld) and it doesn't seem to work properly. The very center of the photos align, but out from there everything gets increasingly out of alignment. I've attached the four jpg files (exported from Lightroom). I want to align them and use the medium blend mode to get rid of the people. So I choose "New Stack…" and add the four photos. I choose "Automatically Align Images" and choose "Perspective". The center tall windows are ok, but everything towards the edges is increasingly out of alignment (see final image). Any suggestions/advice are most appreciated. Thanks.
  23. Hi! I've tried to make HDR with HDR stack. Unfortunatelly, photos were taken on crowded place and option of ghost removing did not made any change: heads of people going downstairs are still deformed. Is it possible to define somehow that this part of photo (where the moving person is) shoud be considered just from one photo of a stack?
  24. Hello ! My goal is to align and "relight" a series of at least 50 photos taken at the same location every month, like these : Using Affinity Photo, I created a new stack with my pictures, and that's OK (alignment is done quite nicely) : But then, I would like to save each re-aligned photo to individual JPEG : Is there a way to achieve this easily ? And is it possible to adjust luminosity in each photo to an average of all ? Thanks !
  25. When creating a new Stack, Focus Merge, HDR Merge, or Panorama the user is prompted to add files to the dialog. When add is clicked, the user is brought to a cloud storage file selection. The first issue is that when using these features, there is no way to add images that are already on the iPad. Some way to add images from local storage needs to be added. These features use a lot of images and it is a big time and bandwidth waste to use cloud storage only for these. Second issue, all these features require selecting multiple images, but the dialog only allows selecting one image at a time. This is especially bad because it is cloud storage. A typical usage of these features god like this, "Click add; Select cloud storage service(it always defaults to iCloud); Navigate through a couple folders; Select an image; Wait for the image to load form cloud storage; Get kicked back to the file list dialog; REPEAT 100 MORE TIMES" I could maybe deal with this if it was only the HDR feature that had this behavior since you are only selecting 3-5 images most of the time using that. But the Focus Merge, Stack, and Panorama features are all likely to use 10 or more images. Focus merging I typically have 50-250 images I have to deal with. Adding a select all files, or allowing the user to select folders would greatly help. For instance, the google drive app has a select all command in the top right. I understand that some of these issues might be softened by implementing drag and drop in iOS11, but it will not full solve the problem. Imagine selecting 50 images for a Panorama or Focus Merge with the drag and drop implementation, vs tapping a single button. It is a big difference. I hope these issues get sorted, because otherwise those features appear to work pretty well. Though I haven't been able to test them a lot, because I want to keep my hair ;) -Steve
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