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James Ritson
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Posts posted by James Ritson
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Hi Jornerik,
I've not had an issue with removing fringing or CA from photographs, but then the CA filter is for very specific purposes. You might find the Defringe filter is more suitable for the majority of cases. Have you got a sample image you might be able to upload?
If you have a look at the Defringing and CA video (https://vimeo.com/133350551) that should give a clearer indication of which filter you'd want to be using. Also check out using the Live Defringe filter (https://vimeo.com/161043323) which might help with selective defringing.
Hope that helps!
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Hi, we've currently got a tutorial on correcting equirectangular distortion that uses the mesh warp tool here: https://vimeo.com/170633074 - it should hopefully give you an idea of what the tool can be used for.
Hope that helps!
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Hi, I am trying to find a tutorial which might help me with improving or removing curved distortion in architecture images taken with a wide angle lens or composed with assembling several images as a panorama.
Does one exist?
Thanks.
Hi Drew,
I just put this one up today, hope it's of use! Panorama Distortion Correction
It's for equirectangular distortion, but you should be able to adapt the technique to non-panoramic images.
Thanks,
James
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Add another one to that list!
Panorama Distortion Correction
This covers how to correct equirectangular distortion, especially with panoramas that have architecture in them.
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Hey all,
Two new tutorials for you with more to follow soon!
Removing Lens Flares (using Frequency Separation)
Thanks,
James
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Why thank you!
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Hey all,
I figured since most of my photography ends up in tutorials, and so is usually unfinished or edited differently, I would share some properly finished images! We visited Derbyshire this bank holiday and fortunately the British weather was kind to us. Here are a few images from the trip (edited in Photo of course):
Lumsdale Falls 01 by James Ritson, on FlickrLumsdale Falls 03 by James Ritson, on FlickrMam Tor 02 by James Ritson, on FlickrMam Tor 07 by James Ritson, on FlickrLumsdale Falls 02 by James Ritson, on FlickrMam Tor 04 by James Ritson, on FlickrYou can see all of the images above plus others not shown here on my Flickr album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskASur94
Thanks!
James
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Hi!
I just realized that the quality of a RAW import from my Panasonic DMC-G6 in Affinity Photo is unacceptable. See the attached screenshot (left the develop persona of Affinity Photo, right the preview of the RAW image in the built-in Apple preview app.
Bildschirmfoto 2016-05-29 um 19.46.15.png
Just in time when i decided to take my hobby to the next level... :-(
Bye.
Markus
Hi Markus, this is because the default raw engine (SerifLabs) does not do any noise reduction, sharpening or other corrections by default. What you are seeing is actually closer to your camera's output than what you see in Preview, which has various enhancements applied to it.
There are two ways around this. One is to apply some light noise reduction (try chroma/colour reduction) and sharpening in the Develop persona. The other is to change Photo's raw engine to Apple Core Image. You can do this by clicking on the tuxedo icon on the top toolbar when developing an image, then changing the engine from SerifLabs to Apple Core Image RAW. Next time you develop the image you will notice a difference; the Apple engine does some noise reduction and sharpening, so that might be a good option for you if you prefer how it develops your raw images.
Hope that helps!
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Hi Ben,
Have you checked out the stickied In-house tutorials threads in the Tutorials forum? They present all the tutorials in a structured format, which sounds like exactly what you're after:
Photo: https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/10119-in-house-affinity-photo-video-tutorials/
Designer: https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/10815-in-house-affinity-designer-video-tutorials/
There's also a Beginners series coming very soon for Photo; can't commit to a specific date, but the core videos are complete and I'm investigating producing a few "further learning" videos. Additionally, I'm always going back to revise and improve existing videos. Any updates to those are announced in the In-house Photo thread linked above.
Hope that helps!
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Great to see 2k resolution on your vimeo videos, I don´t think we have had this for a long time before?
"Firmly cement it into the background" you´re pretty much my favorite British english "vocalizer" :D If I´m not learning something new for AP (where I´m just always looking for tiny pieces), I at least always learn new expressions :D
I did three or four 4K videos but have settled on 2K, as encoding 4K and doing complex operations on Photo was a little too taxing for the Macbook we record on.
There are some odd phrases dotted about in the videos, I hope non-English speakers aren't too puzzled!
Thank you for the feedback, look out for more videos in the near future..
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I'm trying to do a Quick Mask. I'm watching MacAffinity on Vimeo. Great tutorials, only ...
I click a Quick Mask. Photo turns red. I take a Paint Brush Tool to paint-my-selection. Nothing happens. It's a pretty simple instruction. I'm using version 1.4.1. Is there a later version? Has something changed? Or am I missing a qualifying key or something?
If I use the 'Selection' tool instead it works, though the edges are ragged and I can't see any way to feather them ... and this isn't what the tutorial is showing. And I notice that when I try to add a layer adjustment or filter to the 'selection' nothing happens.
Help!
I'm about to dive into a rather challenging job. I'd love to use Affinity Photo to make my graphics ... mostly photo based. But I'm finding several times now that what the MacAffinity very-nicely-done tutorials are suggesting isn't actually working (for me).
All ears,
Ben
Hi Ben,
With quick masking, just double check you have the brush colour set to white (there's an annotation on the video). White adds to the selection, black erases, and you can use tones in-between to vary the strength of the selection. Other than checking that, quick masking should work fine. Let me know if there seems to be another issue and we'll look into it!
I'm also slowly going through older videos to see if they could do with re-recording, so I'll look at adding more detail to the Quick Mask video.
Thanks,
James
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... and hot off the heels of those videos come two more:
Additionally, I've updated the Cutting out video, making it easier to follow and going into more detail with the procedures:
Thanks,
James
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Hello all,
To those who are still struggling with cutting out an image and either exporting it or pasting it into another image, I've updated the video tutorial that was linked to above. It now has better pacing and detail of the procedures is more thorough:
Hope that helps!
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Hey all,
MBd already found one of them, but here are three new videos for you:
Enjoy!
- Patrick Connor and Alfred
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I, too, would strongly recommend that Affinity stop playing with tutorial videos and try to pass them off as a user manual. The product has a lot to offer, but it is not intuitive. Having years or Photoshop experience, like NapaArtist, I too don't want to waste time with the videos.
So... Staff of Affinity. Why can't you put a User Manual out?
We're not trying to pass the tutorial videos off as a substitute for a user manual; many people find them useful and they're a very powerful way of quickly illustrating techniques and key features.
We are currently working on a user manual for Affinity Designer, and one for Photo will be coming in the near future. Producing a detailed, comprehensive book that justifies its price takes time and a lot of hard work. Rest assured, we are working on them.
In the meantime, we endeavour to keep the help updated, and all the tools are documented there. If you don't have time to watch video tutorials, a quick search of the help is the best way to quickly check how a tool works.
Hope that helps.
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Hi gordo,
Just bumped that thread you linked to, as far as your camera goes (think you have a Sony A7 model?), it may just be a case of some more vigilant defringing (it's a powerful filter if you balance the settings correctly).
Regarding the Fuji camera decoding, that is a separate issue. I believe that the X-Pro models will be better supported in an upcoming 1.5 beta (proper X-Pro2 support is being added). For now the best recommendation is to use Apple's Core Image decoder via the assistant menu.
Thanks!
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I guess my last post/response hasn't been vetted yet?
Here's another example - and a new twist that I've seen before but ignored:
Affinity does not open RAW images in the same position as PShop. If you overlay the Affinity image on top of the PShop version and set the transparency to, say 40%, you'll see the difference in image alignment as in the attached example.
I've also attached another image that shows this apparent demosaicing issue. All settings in the RAW processor for both Affinity and PShop are "OFF". I've circled an area that shows the issue - Affinity on the left and PShop on the right.
I'd love to use Affinity as my primary editor - but this issue means I have to use a separate RAW processor.
Hi gordo,
Apologies for the bump, I've just found this thread as you linked to it from the sticked Photo Beta thread.
For the alignment issue, I suspect this is because using the SerifLabs engine retains a slightly higher pixel resolution than other RAW engines, therefore if you compared it to an output from Adobe Camera Raw, or indeed Apple's Core Image Raw, it wouldn't align.
You can see this for yourself; develop a RAW image using the SerifLabs decoder and note the pixel resolution listed in the top left. Now access the assistant settings (click the tuxedo icon on the top toolbar) and set the decoder to Apple Core Image RAW. Cancel the development and open the same raw file again. This time you should note a different, slightly lower pixel resolution.
As for the artefact issues, the most recent screenshot definitely looks like something I'd tackle with defringing; try a very low edge brightness threshold (but not at 0% as it'll have no effect then) and a high tolerance, then check "Also remove complementary hue". Set your colour correctly on the hue slider and this will usually remove most of the fringing in the image if not all.
As Tony mentioned earlier in the thread, ACR does a lot of automatic processing, some of which you can't disable. It's a divisive approach, perhaps, but Photo's Develop persona lets the user determine everything manually, down to noise reduction and lens artefact removal.
If you were to use the Apple Core Image RAW decoder, that includes a few automatic adjustments including noise removal and lens distortion. Have you given that a try to see if it improves the issue?
Hope that helps!
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Hi Digbydo,
Once you've done your retouching work there are a couple of ways you can go on to do further work.
One approach is to simply use adjustment and live filter layers above the two frequency layers and mask them - that way, for example, you could use a recolour adjustment to change the colour of the eyes. Bear in mind that you don't have to add separate layer masks to adjustments and filters - they already contain their own masks. Just paint onto them with black/white to alter the mask.
The other approach is to go to Layer - Merge Visible. This will create an editable pixel layer at the top of the layer stack which contains all the work you've done so far. You can then paint onto this, use Liquify, etc to achieve the results you're after.
Hope that helps!
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Hi Timber, thanks for posting, hope these answer your questions:
When, and why, to choose between Manual Exposure Merging and Stacking Exposure Merging?
Stacking automatically aligns your images and is a quicker process, that's all there is to it! Manual exposure merging involves aligning the images by hand then masking specific areas. It's more precise but also more time consuming.
What difference will HDR offer in a future version of Affinity Photo over Exposure Merging?
HDR is a different beast entirely. With exposure merging you're simply merging exposures in an 8-bit or 16-bit integer document to "average" the exposures. HDR will work in 32-bit floating point and you'll be able to use tone mapping and exposure fusion to achieve the results HDR is more typically associated with.
I see in the Stacking Exposure Merging the sample uses TIFF files. Can this be done with RAW files and or JPG's? or Affinity Photo files?
Yes, you can stack any image format that Photo supports, including RAW. Stacking RAW files takes a little longer as Photo has to decode them first.
Is there a reason the start files were TIFFS and not JPGs?
TIFFs are lossless (I'm a quality control freak!).
So if one needs a TIFF or other file format, does one fully develop RAW files if that's what one is shooting, before merging the exported TIFF file?
No, you can just add your RAW files straight into the Stacking file dialog, no need to spend time developing them beforehand.
What is the workflow difference if one starts with RAW?
None, it just takes a little longer. It's worth noting that your RAW files will be decoded using whichever RAW engine you've chosen in the Develop persona (see video Maximising Raw Latitude for more info).
Hope that helps!
Thanks
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How complex is your document, do you have several adjustments/live filters/pixel layers? It might be worth flattening your document first (Document - Flatten) then converting to CMYK to see if you get the issue. This is not a solution, just a workaround, but it may help indicate what could be going wrong.
Thanks!
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Hi Mike, we've had a look at the files and I can only really put it down to being a phenomenon that could comprise several separate issues. The main issue seems to be that the feature matching struggles with fine detail like the blades of grass. Many of the foreground areas look the same across the two frames so finding the "seam" becomes more difficult. The feature matching comes very close to failing the sanity check consistently, so any small factor can have a bearing on whether it "passes" as acceptable quality. This will explain why processed TIFFs and using a different decoder (Core Image) can stitch successfully. In addition, there are small differences between the Mac App Store and public beta versions that influence the sanity check (hence why it stitches in one but not the other).
Apologies for the issue, all I can recommend for now is either processing the files individually then stitching them as exported TIFFs, or using Core Image Raw to decode the raw files. I have seen the panorama stitch successfully in a development build, so either the next App Store release or a public 1.5 beta could solve this issue for you.
Thanks!
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Mike, I'm not sure at the moment as I'm away from work today, I'll have a more detailed look tomorrow. Out of interest, how does the Serif Labs engine handle individual files from the 5d Mk iii? What do the two images look like if you open and develop them individually?
Thanks,
James
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At this point, AP cannot be used for "professional" printing.
If someone IS using AP for professional printing, please inform me how they do it.
David, I cannot work out why this colour management process has become so complicated; all I can tell you is that I successfully print photography professionally using Photo.
My workflow is straightforward:
1. Profile monitor using a colourimeter: I use an i1 Display Pro with DisplayCal (Argyll CMS frontend). I profile to D65 sRGB at 80c/d².
2. Develop images in Photo with this profiled monitor. I tend to work in LAB or RGB 16-bit.
3. When the editing is complete, I will flatten the document or merge visible; this is to ensure that all adjustments/filters are rasterised and will print correctly.
4. File - Print, then from the printer dialog, I go to the ColorSync options and choose to manually manage colours; at this point I pick an appropriate .icc profile based on my print media; for example, Canon printer drivers include several profiles for glossy and matte papers.
5. Send to print, then compare result with the on-screen version. I have accurate colours and tones.
I've printed off a wide array of photographs including difficult material such as low light scenes, and I haven't had an issue printing with colour management this way, the results have always been as expected.
If you are using soft proofing, just be aware that if you flatten, print or export your image, it becomes rasterised and affects your final output, so uncheck or delete it beforehand.
Hope that helps
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Hi Mike, I don't have Photo in front of me but can you check which decoder you're using for the raw files? (Eg Seriflabs or Apple Core Image). You can do this from the assistant menu in the Develop persona (tutorial video here if you're unsure of where it is). The decoder choice carries over to when you're adding raw files through the Panorama and Stacking dialogs. Whichever decoder you're using, it's worth trying the other one to see if the issue persists. That will also help us narrow down what could be happening.
Thanks!
Cromatic Aberration
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
Hi again, thanks for attaching the files, I managed to defringe areas of the image which I thought you would be referring to, see the attachments for full-res versions:
Any chance you might be able to provide the original RAW file? That way I can help further and see if we can get some good results!
Thanks,
James