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  1. Hi, I almost always use Affinity Photo offline (and Designer too). But a few caveats: I'm on a Mac and bought both a long time ago via the Mac App Store. I just updated Photo and Designer to 1.7.1 on one bootable disk and have used both apps offline. So running them after installation without a web connection is fine. Getting them running properly may require an initial connection though. We'll have to see what others say here. Also, I found Affinity Photo makes outbound connections to Amazon Web Services shortly after launching. I don't want my Mac making unusual outbound connections so I use Affinity apps offline.
  2. Hi, I discovered this fact a while ago and wondered about it too. I don't recall seeing this behavior in Apple's Aperture program that I had used earlier so maybe Apple did the rounding in the background? Regardless, a friend told me a neat trick with math ratios: when I crop an image that I want to export to 1920 x 1080 but my image is much larger, watch for the vertical / height crop value and add the integers. Notice that adding the integers of 1080 = 9, but a multiple of 9 is fine too. So that the cropping software doesn't have to round up or down, or create unusual decimal values. It takes a bit of fiddling with it but the end result is correct. I've attached a screen capture from Canon's Digital Photo Professional 4, which I use almost always when I want to crop before editing.
  3. jkehoe

    focus points

    Hi, I'm seeing strange results on my Mac regarding these AF regions and actual AF points. I am using a Canon 80D and had found that Affinity Photo 1.67 didn't show the active AF point but did show all the AF points without identifying the one(s) that were active when the image was captured. After seeing this post, I tested it on Affinity Photo 1.7 and saw that it showed two green squares in the lower right of center but they're incorrect. I opened the RAW file in Canon's Digital Photo Professional 4.7.20 and it displays the correct AF point. I'll attach the three images here for comparison.
  4. Hi Jaffa, I had to try this myself to see what you meant since I didn't know that we could push a denoise value beyond 100%. I see now that when adding a Live Denoise layer I can click / check the "Extreme" checkbox in either the Luminance or Color sliders and only then can I move the slider well past the 100% value. The Contribution slider stops at 100%; there's no Extreme checkbox on my Affinity Photo 1.6.7. I browsed through the pdf download of the Affinity Photo manual and couldn't find an answer to this so I did a web search on "Noise Reduction" and among other hits I found this one on RawPedia: https://rawpedia.rawtherapee.com/Noise_Reduction What's interesting to me is that some of these software tools add pixels to our image and, perhaps, pushing the value in excess is similar to exceeding the recommended maximum that the software recommends? When I tried high values on a few images I did see some very strange results that were impressive but strongly altered the image in such a way that I found comical. Let's see what other folks say about this topic.
  5. Hi dondiego, I'm no expert but I do use a Mac and have had similar issues in the past (although not with Affinity products). I learned that sometimes we have to sign out of the Apple's App Store and sign back in before we can properly download apps or updates. The cloud icon with the arrow tells me that the item is still in the Apple cloud so at least our purchase has been verified, I think. Sometimes folks find that upon signing out of the App Store they can't sign back in even when using the correct credentials. The fix for that (most of the time) is to verify our Apple accounts at their website: https://appleid.apple.com Best regards, John
  6. Thank you very much, barninga and Gnobelix, you are both very helpful and I really appreciate your quick reply and details.
  7. Hello Everyone, Just to add to this topic with a question: Can someone please describe some details about using the HSL Adjustment tool in Affinity Photo? I recently received my Affinity Photo Workbook, even though I've been using Photo since beta (on Mac). The workbook exercise (page 116) indicates adding a new layer as an HSL Adjustment layer to a jpg file. Using that tool confused me at first since the tool palette looks odd until I reviewed the "science" of HSL and now see that it's represented in a 3 dimensional wheel-like structure. That's why, perhaps, the tool shows red tones at both ends - it's a loop. The confusing part for me is the next step, number 7: "On the color panel, ensure your active color swatch is set to a pure white," even though the goal is to increase the red tones in the sample image. In an older digital imaging guide I have, the authors stated that, in HSL, pure white has a value of zero. Is that why we select white in the Workbook exercise? The resulting effect is that the color adjustments we make in the HSL sliders spills / flows over the HSL white value? Thank you very much!
  8. Hello DerHerr, Although I'm on a Mac I have been using Canon's Digital Photo Professional software to process my CR2 files into TIFF. I then edit them in Affinity Photo. Canon's software is free to download (we could say that we already paid for it by purchasing Canon products). So there's that two-step process to go from shooting Canon RAW files and having a nicely edited JPG or PNG or whatever. Canon's software is okay and between that and Affinity I find it serves me well enough. I am not a professional. Best regards!
  9. Hi Everyone, I had delved into this in the past and found Microsoft's Visio to be a stellar application for, among other things, mapping network topology. Symbols are included for all manner of network nodes, computers, routers, etc. And they have handles that allow our lines (ethernet or equivalent) to lock onto them. Moving nodes around will also move the network lines. I had fun working with that application and made my manager very happy! Visio includes process flowchart tools that are simpler, like circles, rectangles, triangles, etc. Disclaimer: I don't own a PC nor Visio; it was only in my old workplace. Best Regards ;-)
  10. Hi Thomaskarlmaria, Since you mentioned "iPhoto" instead of Apple's newer "Photos" app, can we presume that you're on an older Mac OS? If so, perhaps that Mac OS doesn't support your Panasonic RAW file format since Apple stopped updating that component. Try this: in Affinity Photo, open the Develop Assistant and ensure that the RAW Engine is set to Serif Labs and not Apple's. If I have mine set to Apple under Mac Yosemite, Affinity Photo will crash upon attempts to open / Develop RAW files from my Canon 80D. Setting it to Serif Labs resolved that. Best Regards =)
  11. Hello Everyone, Thanks for posting these interesting findings; I'm learning a lot from you! For what it's worth, I have a Canon 80D and almost always shoot in full sized RAW. Since I'm on Mac Yosemite (10.10) and Apple won't offer their RAW converter for this OS, I've been using Canon's Digital Photo Professional 4 or Affinity Photo / Serif Labs converter. Affinity Photo crashed only when I had Apple's RAW engine selected in it; switching to Serif's resolved that. I just updated Canon DPP to version 4.5.20 and found it to be a much better performing one than version 4.4. When using DPP, I convert the RAW files to .TIF. This may not work for you in the long run, but it may get you out of a bind on a case-by-case basis. Best Regards, and thanks again for posting your findings ;-)
  12. Hello, I have a similar interest in sketches, illustrations or cartoon-like images and I've found that using Affinity Designer's pen tool and layers to work well for me. I'm sure that there's a better way to do this and, hopefully, you'll get better responses to your questions. But for starters, I choose a digital photo where you'd choose your scanned cartoon character and we'd have a jpg or similar file type saved on our hard drive. Here's what I do next: Open the file in either Affinity Photo or Designer and save that as a new file. This image is now the base or background of the project. Add a new layer on top of this base layer and, in Designer, choose the pen tool. I like to zoom in quite a lot to get the level of detail for the project. Trace the outlines of the object by clicking on the edges with the pen tool; these clicks set "nodes" along that path. Break up the tracing in logical sections. For example, my quail image is made up of the body, head plume, left leg and right leg tracings. Save the project as you go, being mindful of the overall size in pixel dimensions. In Designer, click File > Document Setup and choose a new size and rescale to meet your end result needs. Save that as a new file version. Go back to your original Affinity file version and continue building other elements for your character. Once we have an Affinity Designer project with these tracing pen lines we can choose/select that line, change to the node tool, and move sections of these lines around as needed. For example, a cartoon character's arm could be flexed as if waving its hand. The node tool is helpful here. I've attached a partial screen capture of a project that uses the outline of a quail, rendered down to be a small icon. The Affinity image is zoomed-in to 400% to make the nodes more visible; there are a lot because the original quail photo was over 3000 pixels wide. The end result of my icon is about 200 pixels wide. It takes me a lot of time to do this but I enjoy it ;-) Best Regards!
  13. Hi, I know that the Canon T2i isn't a new model but DMF indicated "he's" using Mac OS 10.7.5, which is old by Apple standards. My Mac Mini running Yosemite caused Affinity Photo 1.5.1 to crash when trying to open and develop my Canon 80D images. It would happen every time until I reset Affinity Photo to use Serif Labs' RAW Engine in the Develop Assistant tool. I had it set to Apple's RAW engine from my older Canon camera setup. Perhaps DMF might reset Affinity Photo to use Serif Labs' RAW Engine? Thanks, and Happy Holidays!
  14. Hi, I tried replying to this twice today and, I guess, upon attempting to attach a small screen capture, my post doesn't appear here. So... This does work after all—the key is to use Affinity Photo to open an older RAW file and then reset the RAW engine back to Serif Labs' one. I had mine set to Apple's, which of course won't work since they dropped support for Yosemite in their RAW converter update. Thank you MEB and everyone else that continues to make improvements in Affinity software!
  15. Hello, I just installed Affinity Photo and Designer updates to versions 1.5.1 and have just begun testing these on my Mac with Yosemite (10.10.5). Each attempt to open the Canon 80D RAW file with Affinity Photo causes it to crash and then display the pop-up message offering to report the crash (to Apple, not Serif / Affinity). Interestingly, these RAW files open in Affinity Designer 1.5.1! I know Apple is not offering their RAW converter tool update for Yosemite and I don't plan on updating this Mac OS. I have been using the RAW converter within Canon's Digital Photo Professional, version 4, and will continue using that. Still, I am enjoying all that Affinity offers. Best Regards! Also, I opted to NOT install the included macros at this time. I'll explore those later on.

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