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Posts posted by Dazzler

  1. 1 hour ago, Philip Thorpe said:

    ... incorrectly informing me that i find this under Edit-Preferences. You don't. You find it under Affinity Photo-Preferences.

    There are probably a few differences between Mac and PC. On PC it is indeed under Edit > Preferences. There are also other preferences that may have made a difference in how things are appearing. It is frustrating when you are learning this stuff, and often involves a little bit of playing around with the tools and looking in the manual.

    With the selection brush you should indeed see dots (aka marching ants!) as you make the selection, however if the area that has automatically been selected as your paint the selection happens to go beyond the outside of your viewport then you may not see them. Also, check you are on the correct mode at the top where the tool options are ... you should have 'Add' depressed (darker), not 'Subtract'. Subtract is used to take away from an existing selection, so if you start with that you won't be seeing anything happen as there is no selection to take away from.

    To remove the black background from a moon picture you can use the Selection Brush Tool, which should work nicely with a clean background, then use the selection as a mask to make the outside transparent, or firstdefence's method is a good and fast workaround where you know the colours aren't too varied. It can fall over in other situations though, so it's a good idea to persevere with learning the selection tools and they will come in handy later for other subjects where you don't have that consistency of colour in the background. You can start to see the problem on the dark side of the moon as that method actually turns the shadow into the blue colour, which may not be what you want. A third method is to draw a shape (circle in this case) over the object, get it aligned (you can turn the opacity of the shape layer down to make it more transparent so you can see it's alignment over the subject) and then convert the shape to a selection by holding CTRL (CMD on MAC) and clicking on the shape layer picture in the layers panel. That will give you a perfect circle selection that will include the shadow of the moon. Selecting the moon layer and pressing CTRL(CMD) + J will duplicate the selection area into a new layer, so you'll end up with just the moon on a layer. You can now turn off the original moon layer and you should have a moon on it's own layer with no background. You can then put whatever you like behind it on another layer.

  2. 4 minutes ago, chris.bannu said:

    The UX of it is a bit of a pain in the ass imo

    @Pšenda: Thank you so much for this, is this solution somewhere in the manual? It's so counter intuitive :) It works, but man it's silly :D

    I actually think once you've got your head around it, that this is quite brilliant! So, as your original request stated if you just want to use the pen tool then adjust a few points then return to drawing you can do so without even leaving the pen tool, just hold CTRL (CMD?) down in the pen tool allows you modify the existing points, then release to continue from where you left off still within the pen tool (no need to select the end point again). That's pretty neat.

    If, you have come back to an existing curve later, after doing a million other things, you simply select the last (or first) point on that curve using the node tool, switch to the pen tool and just draw away, no need for having the 'Add new curves to Selected Curves' option.

    However, if you want lots of separate curves in one item then use the 'Add new curves to Selected Curves' option to draw curves and they will become part of that layer (note that 'curves' appears in the layer panel description rather than 'curve'). If you then want to split those curves into their own layers so you can join them etc. then  you can do that with the menu option layer > geometry > separate curves. The opposite is to merge curves into a single layer whic is just above it in the menu.

  3. One thing I can think of that may be stopping you moving something is a locked layer (unlikely if you've just pasted something). Check in the layers panel that there isn't a padlock showing on the layer you are trying to move. If there is, then uncheck the padlock symbol at the top of the layers panel.  That would also stop you transforming things so, so I'm still a bit confused as to what is happening for you, and what crosshair you are seeing, as with the move tool I don't an arrow unless I hover over the  handles or edges.


  4. The Windows desktop scaling factor is working with my Affinity products. That's if we're talking about the same thing - as in right click on desktop, choose display settings, then adjust the percentage under scale and layout. My monitor isn't 4k though, so it looks like I've dropped back to the mid 90s when I do that! There's also a custom scaling option that lets you put in values greater than 175%! I'm not going to try that, I may never get back again!


    6 minutes ago, Dazzler said:

     Would be nice to be able to separate those curves onto their own layers easily so you can join them back into a single curve using the join curves tool.

    Oh wait a minute - there is a function ... 'separate curves' does exactly that!

    Layer > Geometry > Separate Curves

    That would've been nice to have on a right click context menu on the curves layer. Not that it's something you need that often I guess.

  6. 5 minutes ago, Pšenda said:

    Great video. Interesting that if you stay on the pen tool the end node doesn't need to be in the blue state to continue, but if you go to a different tool and come back to the pen tool it seems to only work if the end node is blue - if it's just the red surround you seem to get a new curve happen (but it does feel very conditional, as in sometimes it does one thing and others it doesn't). Also, once you get a 'curves' layer (note the plural there) where there are several curves in that layer it gets really difficult to join them back into one curve again - although it is possible - somehow! - I just did it when testing but trying again now I'm having problems! Would be nice to be able to separate those curves onto their own layers easily so you can join them back into a single curve using the join curves tool.

  7. OK, I've done some further testing with the pen tool and the node tool and I've discovered a few things that are interesting. So, first of all the purpose of the 'Add New Curve To Selected Curves Object' is not to join the new curve to the existing curve, but more to make it part of the same shape object (think of that as a single layer that can contain several curves - ie if you click on it with the move tool they all get selected, although they may not be connected together). So, following on from what I said about continuing with the pen tool, it is a little bit sensitive to the situation at hand. For a gauranteed continue on from the end of a line with it being the same line you need to make sure that the end node is in the correct state (should have a blue inner). If it doesn't then switch to the Node Tool, select it, then switch back to the pen tool - your next action is to plot the next point on the curve.


  8. 5 minutes ago, chris.bannu said:

    But it doesn't work, even if I enable ""ADD NEW CURVE TO SELECTED CURVES OBJECT".

    The nodes don't become one, they are simply two nodes one of top of the other, and when I try to smooth it, I can't, because only one of the nodes gets smooth, the other doesn't. I'll upload a file later today, man this is so frustrating :)

    It sounds like you are creating a new object rather than continuing from the original one. Make sure your existing curve is selected using the move tool, then switch to the pen tool. If the end node has a white centre then you may need to click it first to make it blue and then continue drawing.

  9. 10 minutes ago, Sean P said:

    Hi Alphacolor,

    This is a result of anti-aliasing on the shapes causing a very slight bit of bleed from the shape below. You can modify the Coverage Map in the Blend Options dialog to remove this bleed.

    Aaah so that's what the coverage map does! I did play with that a few times and wondered what it did, but couldn't see anything happening - now I know :).

  10. If you use the layers panel you notice you can expand your picture frame layer. Do this and select the image layer within. Once you have the image selected you can use the move tool to select the side center handle and pull it out to stretch it sideways, or select the center top handle to pull it out heightways. It should stretch nicely, holding down CTRL whilst you drag will do it in opposite directions at the same time.

  11. I just realised you can draw it out from the previous slice if you deselect the previous slice first - it's just the transform handles that are getting in the way. It will snap to the position and the height in this way, leaving you to just set the width. In photo this time!

    @R C-R Yes of course you'd need to use some maths to get the width if you wanted to split the entire picture into equal segments. I was more referring to the positioning not the width. Even without the width snap it's going to be easier to use the snapping to position the slices rather than typing the calc into the x position. So the workflow would be to work out the desired width by dividing the picture width by number of slices (or whatever method - maybe you have a desired slice width instead), then draw the first slice and set it's height and width the the required settings, then deselect the first slice, draw a new slice out from the top right corner of the first slice, until it snaps at the correct height, set the width, then deselect and repeat with the subsequent slices, setting the width each time. Not too bad, but much easier to do in Designer with it's better snapping to width feature.

  12. 1 hour ago, R C-R said:

    How do you determine the width of the slices if not by using math of some sort? That was the only way I could figure out how to get all the slices to have equal widths, or for that matter to know how many slices were needed.

    I could not get that to work. Not only was there no snap point for the same width for the next slice, I could not find any way to start dragging it out from the edge or corner of the previous slice -- all that would do is resize that slice.

    Basically, snapping was useful only for setting heights & for moving slices next to each other once they were correctly sized.

    You have to create the new slice to the right because as you say it doesn't like drawing it from the previous slice corner. You can then drag it back and snap it into place on the end of the previous slice.

    I have just realised that I was in Designer, not Photo, and weirdly that behaviour is not consistent between the two (I wonder why?) so the width snap doesn't seem to work in Photo, but works fine in Designer. Apologies for that confusion!

    Here are my snapping settings in Designer - for what it's worth.

  13. 25 minutes ago, R C-R said:

    There may be some better way to do this but all I could think of is to manually create slices of the desired height, width, & position in the Export persona. This would be a lot simpler if there was a way to duplicate & reposition slices (like by alt-dragging on one with the Slice Tool) but I could not figure out how to do that.

    What I had to do instead was create the first slice, snap it to the left edge & height of the pano, & then set its width in the Transform panel to the desired width (like 1080 px). The other slices were created the same way, except that I had to set each of their left edge x coordinates to the appropriate value -- like 1080+1 px, (1080*2)+1 px, & so on -- in the Transform panel.

    This works but is far from ideal.

    I would do the same, although I don't think it's that necessary to position them using maths like that, you can simply drag them together and they'll snap nicely next to each other. Also once you've set the width on the first slice, you should be able to drag create the others and as you do so there will be a snap point at the same width as the previous slice, so you can very quickly just drag create the rest of them. It's fairly swift that way, you just need to keep an eye on the snapping.

  14. @michacassola

    The pie tool can be used to create a segment of a doughnut like that. The inner orange handle pulls the centre out to create the ring whilst the other one decides the angle. Then you can create many and use the point transform tool to connect them as you've said. Just remember when you are connecting them to move the pivot point onto one of the end points first, then move it into place (all this using the point transform tool), then once it's snapped the the corresponding point on then end, rotate it to make it connect properly. Everything should snap quite nicely :) 

  15. I think I've just found my problem. I have a character style applied to the bullet to get a coloured bullet, and that is making the font size of the bullet bigger than the text, which has another character style, making it sit high. 

    I think I was trying to get a larger bullet size as well as colour, but I'd got confused in there somewhere and ended up with the same baseline settings applying to both the bullet and the line of text, meaning when I changed the bullet font size it sat high, but adjusting the baseline was affecting both the bullet and the text, stopping me from aligning it. I realise now that it's possible to have a separate character style on the bullet and the text itself, making alignment possible with the baseline setting.


  16. Hi Lovely Affinity people!

    Does anyone know if there's a way to correct an alignment issue on a bullet list. The text is sitting slightly lower than the bullet in my bulleted list. Is there anywhere to adjust this (either with a baseline setting that doesn't affect both bulet and text at the same time, or whatever)? I can't seem to find anything. Or am I going to have to create the bullets as a graphic and place them separately?



  17. I've just tried this too ... copied a curve from Illustrator CS4, pasted into Publisher, selected the curve layer then used the text tool to get text on a curve. It's backwards - just as Lozza reports. Reversing the curve or text just puts it on the other side of the line, but the letters are still flipped backwards (mirrored). It's as if there's a horizontal flip on the letters themselves - I certainly can't find a way to rectify this, short of recreating the line in Publisher,  or flipping the whole object then adjusting the curve. I'd say it was a bug.

  18. You may also be able to use the existing flare you originally had by clicking the cog in the layers panel with the lens flare layer selected, then on the graph for source layer ranges you can drag down the left hand side to make the darker areas become transparent. You can even add a curve here if you untick the linear box underneath, and you can also slide the right handle across the bottom to the right a bit to really make it more transparent. Just keep a careful eye on the flare though as you may very well make it look bad or really weak if you are too heavy with the curve/line. However, if it gets too weak you may be able to duplicate the layer to increase the strength back up.

    It may work to some extent, but as others have said, it may be better to use a flare file that covers your area completely without the flare being too big.

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