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About Dazzler

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    Bristol, UK
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    Computer Graphics (2d & 3d), Photography, Music production, Synthesis, Web development, programming.

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  1. Document > Rotate 90` clockwise or Document > Rotate 90` counter-clockwise Should do the whole lot at once, unless you have some that are landscape and some portrait of course.
  2. I've just tried this too ... copied a curve from Illustrator CS4, pasted into Publisher, selected the curve layer then used the text tool to get text on a curve. It's backwards - just as Lozza reports. Reversing the curve or text just puts it on the other side of the line, but the letters are still flipped backwards (mirrored). It's as if there's a horizontal flip on the letters themselves - I certainly can't find a way to rectify this, short of recreating the line in Publisher, or flipping the whole object then adjusting the curve. I'd say it was a bug.
  3. Oops, sorry about that ... just ignore me. I might learn to read one day!
  4. Dazzler

    Lens flare question

    You may also be able to use the existing flare you originally had by clicking the cog in the layers panel with the lens flare layer selected, then on the graph for source layer ranges you can drag down the left hand side to make the darker areas become transparent. You can even add a curve here if you untick the linear box underneath, and you can also slide the right handle across the bottom to the right a bit to really make it more transparent. Just keep a careful eye on the flare though as you may very well make it look bad or really weak if you are too heavy with the curve/line. However, if it gets too weak you may be able to duplicate the layer to increase the strength back up. It may work to some extent, but as others have said, it may be better to use a flare file that covers your area completely without the flare being too big.
  5. There's a another technique, possibly more involved but it gives good results. Doesn't work with every image, but in this case it works well. Duplicate the background image so you have a copy of it on layers on the white background. With that layer use filters > colors > erase white paper This will remove all the white in the image (including the centre piece which you don't want, so we'll fix that next) Back on the background layer make a rectangular selection just inside the red outline (and completely clear of the corners), so it includes the text and play button. Now press ctrl + j to put that selection on it's own layer. This fills in the missing white bits in the centre region but doesn't add the white back into the corners. Turn off the background layer leaving just the transparent layer and the layer you selected from the background. Export as PNG, and you'll get a lovely clean semi transparent edge.
  6. I can't find a setting for this either. CTRL + 1 is a quick keyboard shortcut for showing at 100%.
  7. Ignore the second image ... I couldn't seem to delete it from the post. I realised it wasn't showing the appearance settings!
  8. You can also do something similar by using mutliple strokes feature, but it relies on you not having transparency inbetween the lines, so depending on the job may not be suitable. Using the appearance panel you start with a thick black outline (thick enough to touch the outside edges of the two outer lines, then add another stroke which you make the background colour and slightly less thick than the first stroke (to make the outer lines the thickness you want them), then stack another black outline with a thickness less than the previous stroke, and then add another stroke with background colour to form the second set of lines. You can of course continue to add strokes in this way to make more lines, and you can also add dotted lines etc for creative effects. Using this technique you can bend the line easily and it all goes with it. You may have to choose the capping settings carefully to ensure you don't get lines on the sides where you don't want them. You can also change the colours of the lines at a later stage easily enough too.
  9. Ok, just updated to the latest version 1.7.2, and it's back to normal again
  10. Nope, no matter what I do I'm only getting one master appear! I can create new masters but I don't get them upon a new document anymore. I've tried checking, unchecking, new document, more checking, existing document more checking/unchecking, nothing seems to bring me back the Master B by default apart from me adding it in manually. Oh well, it's of little consequence anyway, I can just add one in if I need it.
  11. Not in my case ... but I'm pretty sure when I first used publisher it had the two masters, so I'm pretty sure I've changed some preference somewhere!
  12. That's the 'facing pages' tickbox right? Even with that ticked I only get a single master created on a new document ...maybe I've changed something somewhere else tthat has remembered my setting.
  13. Odd, I only get one when I open a new document. But the masters are basically used to put items onto (such as headers/footers with page numbers etc), that are then applied to pages that use that master (pages can have several masters applied to them). What this means is you can change the master later and pages that have that master will be updated to match. You can define multiple master pages and master pages can have master pages within them, so it's a very flexible setup.
  14. That's actually a very good question and one I often ask myself ... what is the correct way to remove those annoying bright areas in the background? You can use curves / levels and all that but ultimately this tends to give you a 'just as disgusting' grey area instead of a white one, which rarely looks good. The inpainting tool may well be the best solution, but it does very much depend on the image. You can use gradients placed subtly over the top where the colours have been picked from areas around the bright area - that may work. Sometimes painting the areas back in with a brush can work but that obviously requires some painting talent. If you do use gradients / painting of new colours into the space then it's normally a good idea to add a subtle amount of noise into the new painted areas, so they match the original picture better. Sometimes you can hide them by using additional pictures and bringing background details from those into the scene (either by placing the images and then masking, or by using the mutliple sources with the clone tool). Ultimately, and I'm presuming we're talking about photography here, the best method is to take a better picture in the first place without the distracting background. Whilst it's possible to fix things like this, it's sometimes easier/quicker to just go and grab another shot where you pay a bit more attention to the background content and the exposure. Not always viable of course, depending on the nature of the shot, but worth bearing in mind. Doing this also makes you a better photographer as over time you'll develop an instinctual 'eye' for these sort of distracting things.