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About Dazzler

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    Bristol, UK
  • Interests
    Computer Graphics (2d & 3d), Photography, Music production, Synthesis, Web development, programming.

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  1. They are actually positioned correctly, it's a visual thing that happens due to anti-aliasing of the edges of the layer. To solve this, click on each of the green layers and click the cog icon at the top of the layers panel. Then in the dialogue that pops up, select the coverage map and drag the left hand point up to make a straight line across the top and it'll solve your issue.
  2. You can use the divide tool on that curves layer to end up with two separate curve layers. I think that's what you're looking for.
  3. If it's placed images you're talking about rather than actual picture frames, then make sure you're not holding down the shift key as this has the opposite effect that you might expect and allows it to lose it's original ratio rather than constrain it (There's an option for this in the preferences under the tools tab - Move Tool Aspect Constrain).
  4. Another method similar to Murfee's is to duplicate the layer you want to clip for each element in the group and nest those duplicated layers inside each item in the group so each is clipped by the item you've nested it within. You can then use the 'lock children' tickbox in the context bar to prevent them moving. that way you can move the elements around within the group and it would work in a more 'live' way. Again, not ideal but it would work.
  5. I'm not sure if there's a way to do the same thing in Photo. Here's a workaround that might help though? 1. Ctrl + click on the thumbnail on the group layer - this should give you a selection around the edges of the items in the group. 2. Select the pixel layer that you want to clip. 3. Choose Layer > New Mask Layer - This will mask the pixel layer with the selection. I know that will not be live updating thing, so if you adjust the items in the group and move them around you'd have to delete the mask and repeat the steps. It's only a few seconds of extra work though.
  6. Odd, the method I said should work, as I did exactly what I said in a new document to make sure ... worked fine. Make sure you create the artistic text first, then switch to the gradient tool (make sure it's the one from the tool bar on the left (looks a bit like a cd with a diagonal line running out of it). Garry's suggestion is equally valid, although maybe has an extra step in creating a rectangle. Clipping is simply a term used to describe a mask that cuts off some of the image. So in Garry's example there's a gradient filled rectangle, which has been placed inside the text layer (this can be tricky if you are new to Affinity, but you drag one layer into another - but depending on where the blue highlight sits when you are dragging tells you how it is going to combine those two layers - you want it to sit to the right and just below the text layer) - doing this makes the text into a clipping layer - only reveealing the gradient below where the text is.
  7. Easiest way ... 1. make your artistic text 2. Select the gradient tool in the left hand tool palette. 3. With that tool selected drag across your text to decide the angle of the gradient. 4. Choose colours at the points along the line - it starts with two but you can add new ones by clicking on the line or select existing points, then choose a colour from the colour palette. 5. Enjoy your rainbow text!
  8. To make an even more realistic shadow you can use Photo to soften the furthest parts of the shadow using Field Blur and setting two nodes within that with one node near the feet and the other at the extremes of the shadow. the node near the feet would have minimal blurring, whereas the furthest one would have more. That mimics the way that shadows are more diffuse when they are further from their source. For the job in hand it's probably better to not do this and keep the sharp edges as stylistically it fits better with the flat graphics.
  9. This is it with a black colour overlay FX and then the layer opacity (not the colour overlay opacity) set to 34%. The colour of the red comes through naturally that way and it looks more realistic.
  10. There are some great suggestions here. One thing that I often see done and disagree with though is the use of grey as a shadow colour. Unless it's for stylistic purposes, shadows are never grey - they are black with an opacity to allow the underlying colours to show through (the result may be grey if they lie over a white surface - which is presumeably why people use grey). Stronger shadows have a higher opacity, softer ones are more transparent. Using grey brings an unrealistic look. Putting a grey shadow across a black background actually lightens the black, something that doesn't happen in real life - shadows should never lighten anything.
  11. So working with three images whereby I've loaded the same image twice and then chosen a different image and put them into a stack, the median does exactly as you'd expect and disregards the image that is different. However, hiding one of the duplicated images, leaving just two images that are different seems to reveal a picture whereby some pixels are selected from one image and some from the other almost like there's some weird masking taking place (which is kind of expected to some degree). So it looks like it's choosing one or the other image to show for each pixel. How it's deciding that I'm not sure, but a true mathmatical median should be taking into account that there's an odd or even number of samples, and if it's even, taking the two middle ones and doing a mean between those to arrive at the result. Would that be useful from an imaging point of view? I'm not too sure, but it's kind of interesting what is happening - could be useful as an effect maybe?
  12. Interesting. Looking at the docs, it suggests that median removes content that is not consistent in each image - suitable for object removal and noise reduction. So I wonder if there's some extra calculations in play there that makes it more suitable for that. I expect they've taken a median calculation and expanded it to suit that purpose? I'm only guessing though. Not sure how it could really work properly with two images.
  13. The Affinity apps are excellent for web design - that's my primary use for them. Not sure I'd want the 100% default thing, but it wouldn't hurt to have as a preference tucked away somewhere.
  14. Murfee's suggestion is probably the best, but if you don't want to group you can just re-rasterise the layer once you've rotated it and it will reset the orientation of the bounding box controls.
  15. What I really like with the corner tool is that it stays 'live' so you can manipulate the points along the path afterwards and the curves adjust themselves to suit the radius in each case.

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