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jhmdigital

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About jhmdigital

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Worcestershire
  • Interests
    Digital Painting and Photography - Nikon D7200 with AF-S Nikkor16-85mm and AF S Nikkor 70-300mm lenses. MackBook Pro 13" Retina & iMac retina both version 10.13.6

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  1. Having Affinity Photo, Designer & Publisher I agree that Affinity DAM is now needed. I understand that Serif like to keep their cards close to their chest but think it would be helpful to their loyal supporters if they could now give an update on this matter.
  2. I have a variation on this problem. With me its is only if I am using an AP aphoto file in the document Im trying to print that I get crashes. Other files of the same picture and with same colour space, such as jpeg, psd work fine and document prints
  3. MEB - many thanks but I am, as you suggest, changing document units selecting the View Tool (hand icon) and selecting them in the Units dropdown in the context toolbar. The problem is that I have to do this with each file I open because the default setting is pixels. I am asking if Preferences could include the option to elect your own default measurement unit.
  4. Sorry if this has been raised before. The default setting for ruler measurements in both Photo and Designer is pixels, presumably because the majority use that. However I mainly work in cms and it drives me round the bend have to change the setting each time I open a file. Please could a future update include the ability to set your own default measurement unit in Preferences?
  5. I'm having exactly the same problem as HarryBH in getting Nik Collection to install properly. I've watched the video umpteen times and am sure I am doing everything correctly. I have Adobe Photoshop Elements and Lightroom installed were Nik works perfectly. I've completed uninstalled the Nik filters using its uninstaller. I've uninstalled Affinity Photo and downloaded it again. Then I downloaded Nik again; during installation Photoshop Elements and Lightroom showed and I added the Plugins Folder which I had created. After installation Elements and Lightroom worked fine. The Nik collection was showing in the folder I'd created. Affinity Photo Preferences showed all the filters but two showed as requiring global support the rest were shown as unknown. I've done what it said in the video and restarted but whit no effect. Help please.
  6. Wingshooter, you can still buy outright a standalone version of Lightroom for about £100 with no monthly subscriptions.. I, and many Affinity Photo users use this standalone Lightroom for photo management and basic adjustments and then do full editing in Affinity Photo. When Affinity bring out their own asset management product I'll stop using Lightroom.
  7. I'm not an expert but have been colour printing for many years and think that there may be one or more areas covering your problem. Firstly any serious printer would not rely on Mac calibration. This relies on how you see colour, the colour temperature of the room light etc. The recommended way is to use a display calibration unit such X-rite Colour Munki to create a profile for your monitor. Then to recalibrate every month. Using such a device also allows you to use its ambient light monitoring facility which allows the profile to be adjusted real time as the lighting in the room changes e.g sun going in and out. or artificial light at night. {consider using a 'daylight' bulb]. Once you have a properly calibrated monitor you can concentrate on the printing. The paper profiles built into your printer can give quite acceptable results provided the quality of the paper you are using is close to that the profile was created for. Unfortunately there can be a tremendous variation in 'plain' paper with both weight and surface finish which will dictate how much ink it absorbs and how it shows the colour when dry. Also remember that the colours of the print will change according to the light in which you are looking at it. e.g.. outdoor sunlight or indoor artificial lighting. Most photographic paper manufacturers provide free profiles for each paper they produce which you can download and install Once you have done the above try again using Colour Sync with Affinity managing the colour and the downloaded profile for the paper you are using and you should get acceptable results. The bad news is that paper profiles will not help you with your fabric printing. You should still calibrate your monitor but different fabric will have different absorption rates and show the colours differently. I suspect you realise this from your "whole different kettle of fish'. If you are in the UK try buying digital photo paper from Permajet [ http://www.permajet.com ] and downloading the appropriate profile. They area small but extremely helpful company who may be able to give some pointers for fabric printing . They also run courses for digital photo printing. Hope some of this helps.
  8. Similar problem here. I had Affinity Photo 1.4 on both my MacBook Pro and iMac. On the iMac the App Store notified me the update was available and I downloaded and installed without a problem. However no update message from the UK App Store on my MacBook Pro [even before downloading on iMac] and when I clicked on the update button it showed that there were no updates available. I followed Pruus suggestion on the MacBook and was able to download and install 1.5.1 without a problem. Any suggestions as to why I got an update message on one computer and not the other?
  9. This debate seems to have wandered over various side issues from the original question which was when Affinity Publisher would be available. I use APh and AD and think they are both excellent programmes and fantastic value for money and have a great regard for Affinity / Serif in producing them. However I do find it very disappointing that there is such procrastination by them regarding Affinity Publisher. If they started work on it when it was originally mooted them surely it should be available in at lest beta form by now? I can only conclude that for whatever reason management decisions have delayed putting in sufficient resources to ensure the original availability date was kept and such thinking is the cause for continuing delays. Management, you are causing a great deal of frustration among a very loyal customer base, please rethink.
  10. Please ignore the above, I wasn't using my eyes and feel a bit of an idiot!! What was happening was that when I reopened the file the measurement unit had defaulted to pixels rather than centimetres. When I changed it to cm the file was correct 40 x 27.
  11. Can anyone explain the following and advise how I can prevent this happening please. The following happens in both Affinity Photo and Designer. I create a new landscape file 40 cm by 27.7 cm at 300 dpi as a template. Then before doing any work on it I export as a psd file. When I reopen that file in either AF or AD it has resized to 47.24 cm by 32.71 cm at 300 dpi. I have tried the same procedure twice in both programmes with the same results. Advice please.
  12. I hesitated before joining this discussion as it seems to be getting a little heated which is not helpful to anyone. What the majority of people wish to know, in simple terms, is whether there is a difference between PPI and DPI. I'm not a pendant, nor brilliant at maths, but I have been involved in digital photography for over thirty years and taught by some expert digital photographers. Yes, there is a practical difference although I agree that unfortunately the terms seem to be used indiscriminately in daily use. As another contributor wrote above you need to consider the context they are used in. The best way I can explain it is that PPI relates to the file size. If you have a file 6 inches by 4inches at 300 PPI and then change it to 6 inches by 4 inches at 100 PPI, then that file size is considerably smaller that the original file. The follow on from that is each of the pixels in the smaller file covers a greater area so you will lose detail [sharpness] more quickly if you zoom in on an area than you would in the larger file. This applies also to when you come to print the file. The larger file with more PPI will print show more detail [be sharper] than the smaller file. DPI really should inly be used when discussing printing and refers to the number of drops per inch the ink is applied at. Print the same file at a lower number of DPI and then print it again at a higher number and compare the two. The greater number of DPI the more detail [sharper] the print will be. At the risk of confusing readers the type of paper you print on can also affect the apparent sharpness of the print. The same file printed on a glossy type surface can appear sharper than when printed on a 'art type matt' paper. I may not have explained the above as precisely as I would wish but before any come back at me please read the book Adobe Photoshop for Photographers version CS5 by Martin Evening [Focal Press ISBN 978-0-240-52200-5]. Read Chapter 5 "Image Editing Essentials" pages 289 to which covers this debate comprehensively and clearly. Martin Evening has been an acknowledged Photoshop guru for many years. I cannot recommend it strongly enough, not only for this subject but anything to do with digital photography. Hope this helps.
  13. Many thanks MBd and Madame for above. Will start compiling my own list of equivalents.
  14. MEB - many thanks, I've sent ages searching for the 'history' brush so I feel a bit of a fool. Are there many other tools / filters etc in AP that perform similar tasks to ones in Photoshop but which have a different name? It could be useful if Affinity could provide a list of them giving the Photoshop name first and then the name of the AP equivalent so that people transferring from Photoshop can easily find them. Just a suggestion.
  15. Adobe Photoshop has a History Brush which can be used to paint back from History states. I used it to create digital pictures by painting onto a new blank layer with one of Photoshops art brushes e.g water colour with reduced opacity and gradually building uptake opacity. Please note I don't mean the ART History brush, just the history brush and choosing one of the brush range. Please see attached jpeg example. Unfortunately I cannot find a history brush, or any mention of it in tutorials or help. However while searching the forums I did find: Posted 12 October 2014 - 07:32 PM We will have an upgraded brush engine, new brush sets and a new colour mixing brush for Photo. The history brush in Photo I will also be very useful for digital painting. Is there a history brush I cannot find or has it not yet been introduced? Any advice gratefully received.
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