Stanley

Yes, I have this problem too. With big shapes zoomed in, so the shape is bigger than my finger. Sometimes it’s worse than others. I assume it’s an intermittent bug. iPad Air 2, latest iOS and AD.

Thanks for your answer J, but I’m not sure that’s the entire story. - If I repeat those steps for case 1 in my previous post but immediately after step 2 I tap Synchronise from Selection then the opacity gradient does get added to the default (ie, when I draw more rectangles they have opacity gradients). - If I repeat the steps for case 1 in my previous post but add a colour gradient instead of an opacity gradient then the colour gradient does get added to the default. - And if I repeat the steps to add a colour gradient and tap Synchronise from Selection then it gets added to the default. This shows that gradients can be part of the default. Designer handles colour gradients fine, but seems to have a bug with opacity gradients - my case 1.

Normally when I change an object’s fill or stroke property, the same property in the default changes too. I’ve found two cases where this doesn’t happen and I wonder if these are bugs. Case 1. Opacity fill Case 2. Rectangle brush stroke Oops, that second screenshot is smaller. iPad Air 2 (just powered off), iOS 11.4.1, Designer iPad 1.6.0.35

Yes, I would love dimensioning too. For example to be able to draw a plan of a house at 1:100 scale, so that 10 mm across the page is labelled as 1000 mm. This would allow architects and engineers to use Designer more easily.

To delete a photo, tap the 3 bars at the bottom, right of the thumbnail.

I use AP differently, and having AP available as a location in Files app wouldn’t help me. Once I’ve edited a photo and exported it, I don’t usually come back and make changes. So I usually don’t care where AP's .aphoto files are stored. If I do, I’ll use 'save a copy' to put it in PDF expert, so I can get it back later and so it gets backed up.

There’s an iOS camera app, CameraPixels, that now does focus bracketing. So now you can shoot and process a focus stack/merge photo without leaving your iPad. With foreground in focus: With background in focus: After AP's focus merge magic with 6 bracketed photos, all in focus: CameraPixels has a number, 0.0 to 1.0, that specifies the focus distance. To shoot the photos in focus bracket mode, you select the start and end focus number, plus the number of photos to take. So you need to experiment first with manual focusing to see what start and finish numbers are right. For this photo, I took 10 photos, starting at focus 0.0 and ending at 0.6. I deleted 4 photos that didn’t look much different from the ones on either side, then dragged them into AP. Magic.

In AP and other iOS apps, you can store/load photos and .aphoto files on the cloud. Look in 'cloud', tap 'locations' at top left. Your wireless remote storage should appear here if it has had a recent upgrade.

Machine learning: buzz buzz buzz. Adobe claimed that one of their PS healing tools uses artificial intelligence. Twenty years ago.

Great tutorial, thanks. I've added your blog to my RSS feed; I'm expecting more like that.

Blend ranges maybe??

That would be great, but I suspect it's an iOS limitation.

: D

Hi, my bottom layer was the original. To create the second layer I duplicated it, went to the channels studio and tapped composite blue to just display the B, then tapped the filter studio and applied a Gaussian blur - this is applied to the visible channel only of the second layer, B. Then in channels studio I tapped the return arrow at the top to display all channels again. I then changed the layer 2 blend mode to colour and saw the yellow tint. Which I got rid of with Blend ranges as I described above. You seem to be turning an RGB image into a single channel by adjusting the curves to zero the unwanted channels. This doesn't seem a useful thing to do. But I repeat, don't follow that tutorial.

Think you can do all the steps in that face retouching tutorial in AP, but I wouldn't. I think there are now better ways to do those steps, for example for noise use Noise Reduction, to blur the flat areas of the face use Bilateral Blur. In Dan Margulis's book 'Photoshop LAB color' he gives a simple way of enhancing faces that I think gives a better result than that tutorial. To get rid of the yellow tint when you blur the B channel, blend the original layer with the layer with the blurred B in colour mode (you'll see the yellow tint) then use the controls in the bottom third of the layer options window: tap Master, select Red and Green in turn and for each, in the box on the bottom left, drag the horizontal line from the top of the box to the bottom. This selects the R and G from the original. Apparently blurring the B changes the R and G slightly; I'm not sure why.