EdD

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  1. Hi Simon, I bought this course, have been through it once and found it very helpful. I left a review on Udemy. The workflow was very useful for me and I was particularly interested in the way you use various zones to correct or adjust an image in only the appropriate areas. The action on the NIK plugins was really good too. I've never used NIK before but downloaded them after watching that section. I can see there's enormous potential there and was particularly interested in the way you showed to control the changes in specific parts of an image. So, IMO this course is another hit and well worth the price of admission. Well done (again). Ed
  2. Simon, I watched the teaser videos you made and it looks like this course will be another winner. This seems like a course that would go well with your other Affinity Photo courses perhaps after the basics or concurrently with Tips and Tricks. Would I be right in assuming that the workflow you're teaching in this course would apply equally well to non-landscape subjects? Ed
  3. MEB - It would be handy if we were able to rename individual overlays like we can with layers in the develop Persona.
  4. Thanks R C-R that works. Can you explain what is happening there, as in what is preserve alpha doing that toggles the effect? I don't understand what the alpha is for in this situation.
  5. I've come across something that seems odd to me. I'm hoping there's a simple reason for it that someone could explain. When I apply Gaussian Blur as a live filter layer it creates an apparently transparent area along the edges of the image. When I do the same with a Gaussian Blur filter it doesn't happen. As a fan of non-destructive adjustments I typically only use live filters. To clarify what I'm seeing here are 2 screen captures. The first shows the live filter and the second a filter. Each one has Gaussian Blur set to the extreme to illustrate what's happening. Anybody know why this happens and how to avoid the effect with a live filter? Thanks.
  6. You could also try labelling your layers so you can tell at a glance which one you need.
  7. Another recommendation for Simon Foster (aka Drippy Cat). I recall commenting in a review of Simon's Udemy courses that he not only shows you what to do but also explains why to do things in a particular way. I think you'll find it a great way to understand better and save yourself considerable time and frustration. MarkW has provided the links to some free intros Simon did that'll give you a sampling of how his lessons are taught. The Udemy courses have some free preview sections and the rest is paid (very reasonably priced). Also, Simon is very helpful and responsive if you need help. Highly recommended. Full disclosure: I have no connection with Simon other than being a satisfied customer.
  8. R C-R Thank you much! The hovering mouse 'trick' does the job. I agree that a guide for the format features would be very useful - the trial and error method to discover what does or doesn't work doesn't really cut it.
  9. I have been trying to use this new format and find it more annoying than pleasant. Being dumped on the unread content page when I'm just trying to read the newest posts in one section (like Photo Beta on Mac) is irritating. Also when I open a thread I'm following I can't find a way to jump to the first unread comment in that thread. As a result I find I'm not following this forum nearly as much as before because I don't like having to wade through masses of irrelevant (to me) posts to check a discussion that is of interest. I hope there's some way to solve this!
  10. I think what you're seeing are 'ghosts' from different images with different focal points. In the tutorials (don't know which one off hand) James Ritson shows how to clone them out by using different source images. I've done this when I tried out focus stacking and found it fairly straightforward.
  11. To add my observation to R C-Rs comments, I find if I look carefully at your original I can see some of the blotches your B&W conversions emphasized. That suggests your jpeg isn't as clean as you might wish for. Since you seem to have the option I recommend you get into the habit of working with RAW files. You'll get much more data that will give you more latitude when manipulating your photos. Much will depend on what you're going to do with your finished image of course. If you are posting small images out-of-camera jpegs will probably do just fine but if you want to enlarge your images or manipulate significantly I think you'll be happier with the results you get by working with RAW. That said, RAW does take some learning - it's easy to overdo manipulation there too. Affinity Photo is a very powerful tool that's very capable of overdoing it if you push it too far. One of the great aspects of this app is that you can do non-destructive manipulation - try things and go to the extremes to find what the limits are for your taste and work back from there.
  12. Nice that you were able to get so close to a Pileated - around here they're very skittish. Another way to deal with the green cast is to use the white balance and add in a little magenta.
  13. Have you tried this approach? www.youtube.com/watch?v=AesJUS2yO2c
  14. It sounds like you're pretty new to this process. To make your learning go as easily and enjoyably as possible I offer these suggestions. 1. To get started try some of the free tutorials on You Tube from Drippy Cat (Simon Foster). They'll get you going with the basics. Simon also offers 3 in-depth courses (paid) through Udemy that are worth having a look at. Simon's courses go into some detail on the why and how of several of the topics you mentioned like RAW processing, black point adjustments, etc. 2. The official Affinity Photo tutorials are offered free. They're created by James Ritson (a member of the AP development team). James covers pretty much all aspects of the capabilities of Affinity Photo. His tutorials are excellent: I believe there are about 200 different ones. 3. Affinity Revolution (on You Tube) also offers several good tutorials on specific techniques. Several are free and he also offers one paid course. All three of these offer a lot of good clear advice presented in easy to follow steps. All three offer free tutorials too. For my own learning I followed Simon's 3 courses on Udemy as well as the free tutorials from the others to get started and found they gave me a good solid foundation as well as showed me the rationale for doing things in a particular way. Which is best? Try each and see whose teaching style fits you best. Good luck and have fun.
  15. There's some adjustment available through preferences. The next version of AP is supposed to be released around Easter and it's going to offer more options.