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h_d

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Everything posted by h_d

  1. You can edit styles and then save them as default. They will then be applied to all new documents:
  2. If you want Affinity Photo to display what the image might look like with M swapped for PMS Rubine Red and Y swapped for another colour (let's say PMS 116C), I think you can approximate this using a Channel Mixer adjustment layer. First you need to know the CMYK values for the two replacement colours. Luckily Pantone supply these on their website. Rubine Red C is C0 M100 Y24 K4. 116C is C0 M10 Y98 K0. Open the image, call up a Channel Mixer. With the Output Channel set to CMYK Magenta, dial in the CMYK values for Pantone Rubine Red C. Now set the Output Channel to CMYK Yellow, and dial in the CMYK values for Pantone 116C. Hope this helps...
  3. Maybe try a New Focus Merge? EDIT: With a Live Stack Group in your layers list, you can change the blending to achieve what you want:
  4. Hey @SF Charter Boat You've overwritten the Background layer with the gradient tool, so you have a few options: Close, don't save, re-open, start again. Undo repeatedly until you can see the boat. Start again. Or track back in the History panel, start again. And remember - don't use the gradient tool while the Background layer is active.
  5. Or try shift-click on the selected object. Or Cmd-D (Mac) - presumably Ctrl-D (PC)
  6. It's because you're running the gradient tool over the Background (boat) layer. You need to have the Grad layer selected and run the gradient tool over that. If you use the gradient tool on the boat layer you will lose the image.
  7. Can I just check that what you're seeing is like this: Both layers locked, both layers checked, white "Grad" layer, "Background" layer showing a thumbnail of the boat? Grad layer highlighted (mine is red, yours is blue). If not, please could you post a screen shot? If yes, read on... Think of the layers as sheets of paper or plastic, stacked one above the other. Your "white screen" - the top layer, Grad layer - is lying on top of your boat picture, which is why you can't see the boat. Don't worry, that's where it needs to be. You are going to make changes to the Grad layer so that it acts as a sort of filter over the image of the boat. To do this, first you need to unlock it. Click the padlock and its icon will disappear. The Grad layer is now editable. Good. Now, to get used to the idea, try temporarily hiding and showing the Grad layer by unchecking the box next to its name. If you hover your mouse pointer over this box you'll see a popup that says "Is visible". Like this : Screen Recording 2019-11-16 at 17.06.29.mov When you've tried this, end up by making sure that the Grad layer is selected (shown by my red highlight, yours is blue) and visible. Now try changing the Blend Mode of the Grad layer. Hold down on Normal and scroll through the options: Screen Recording 2019-11-16 at 17.10.20.mov As per my original post, I would now suggest setting the blend mode of your Grad layer to Colour Burn. This is like changing your white, translucent sheet of paper into a clear sheet of plastic. Then try dragging the Gradient tool on the Grad layer: Screen Recording 2019-11-16 at 17.19.37.mov Hope this gets you further...
  8. Hi @SF Charter Boat Sorry I wasn't clear enough - video attached. Screen Recording 2019-11-15 at 11.23.54.mov You change the blend mode of the active layer (Normal, Colour Burn etc etc) in the pull-down above the layer list - see @R C-R's screen grab and the video. By "'upper" layer I meant the top layer in the layer list - the layer I named "Gradient". The coloured blobs on the ends of the gradient line determine where the gradient starts and ends. Once you've drawn the gradient, as long as you still have the gradient tool selected, you can position either end wherever you like - it's a matter of aesthetic judgement. As far as I can see, moving the little marker in the middle of the gradient line does nothing (I think it ought to adjust the mid point - wonder if this is a bug...) Once you've accomplished Step 3, then unchecking and checking the "Gradient" layer in the layer list will hide and show the effect, to compare it with the original image.
  9. Here's one way of approximating a graduated ND filter. I'm sure there are others. 1) Create a new pixel layer above the background layer. I renamed mine to Gradient. 2) With the Gradient layer active, select the Gradient tool and drag it from the bottom to the top (hold down the Shift key to keep it vertical). This will give a white-to-gray gradient on the upper layer, and your boat will be temporarily obscured. 3) Change the blend mode of the upper layer to Colour Burn . 4) With the gradient tool still selected you can now start refining the effect with various settings. For example, you can move the top and bottom handles of the gradient slider up and down to make the gradation more or less defined. You can even drag the handles outside the image, although if you bring them too close together you will get a noticeable line. If you click once on either of the gradient handles you can then change its colour in the Colour panel. Changing the grey to black will give a very strong result. Other colours may get you some pretty nightmarish results: You can tone the results down by adjusting the Opacity of your Gradient layer: You can also experiment with different blend modes, and you can refer back to the original image by temporarily hiding the Gradient layer: Once you're happy, save this file in .aphoto format (so you can edit it later) and then export to your preferred final image format (.jpg etc). Hope some of this helps!
  10. Make sure snapping is on, then using File - Place... you can drop another image on top of the first one. This creates a new layer on the fly, and you can drag out the second image as you place it to align exactly with the first one. Assuming of course that the x-y dimensions of the two images are in proportion.
  11. Thanks Ben. Maybe the help file needs modification, as the Transform panel does not 'report' these measurements. While using the tool, the Transform panel changes functionality to report distances (ΔX, ΔY), scaling percentage (S) and angle (ΔR) pertinent to the current transform. Cheers, H
  12. Hi, According to the help topic Transforming Objects, under "To transform a selected object about a specific point", using the Point Transform Tool: While using the tool, the Transform panel changes functionality to report distances (ΔX, ΔY), scaling percentage (S) and angle (ΔR) pertinent to the current transform. As far as I can see, the panel does indeed change, but the distances, scaling and angle are not updated: they stick stubbornly to zero. The tooltip does update, but doesn't display the delta values. Screen Recording 2019-04-20 at 13.00.22.mov (AD 1.7.0.9, Mac OS 10.14.4) Cheers, H
  13. The Inpainting Brush is destructive. I suppose if you wanted to keep the original dusty scratchy image then you could use a live filter.
  14. Hi, I've just been reminded to update to .118. But the update panel doesn't display the full number of the version I'm using at the moment: Cheers, H
  15. As an example (and to cover my earlier embarrassment): I have an intractably stuck piece of dirt on my sensor which shows up as a dark mark in plain sky backgrounds. I could get rid of the mark using Dust and Scratches by creating a Live Filter layer, adjusting the settings until the mark is no longer visible, then inverting the Live Filter layer and painting over the mark in white: Screen Recording 2019-04-14 at 09.00.23.mov However, for a quick fix I reckon it's probably more effective to use the Inpainting Brush - certainly fewer steps.
  16. "Does not seem to work" could be open to many interpretations. As far as I can see: With 32-bit RGB images, both Live and Destructive versions of the filter are disabled (greyed out). With 8-bit and 16-bit RGB images, the filter has some effect at low tolerances but doesn't add what I would consider to be dust, scratches or both: Screen Recording 2019-04-13 at 10.27.26.mov (the video is 16-bit Destructive). Similar effects with LAB colour - haven't had time to test this, or CMYK, or checking and unchecking the Channel Tolerance button. (I have Metal enabled - haven't tried the other way.)
  17. No, that was a single manual resize. I too tried running it as a macro, without success: the recorded macro resizes any image to the same absolute dimensions. As far as I can see there's no way of automating this, but I may be wrong. I agree that it would be very useful.
  18. You can do this in Document - Resize Document. Make sure the proportions are locked, then multiply one or the other by 1.1: Specify DPI and resampling options and click Resize. Rinse and repeat...
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