toltec

Is it possible to set the ruler origin to start at the bottom. I have a need.

Sounds like a feature request to me. That's very handy information to have, although admittedly, export file size is more important.

sRGB can display more information than the eye can see or a printer can print. I have always worked in sRGB. No one ever new ;) These days so much is done on the Internet and sRGB is the best format for size - re reproducible colours. I'm sure someone will disagree :( Of course, if your high end digital camera produces RAW files in Pro Photo do the colour adjustment in that. When you are happy, then is really doesn't matter. IMHO

As far as I remember, Adobe RGB was very (and I mean VERY) marginally better when converting to CMYK because it covered slightly more of the ranges of both the RGB Display and the CMYK inks. It helped conversion because it saved "clipping" the colour range at both the display process and the print process. I had a Canon photo printer with extra colours in green and red and it was better, sometimes, as CMYK can't produce greens and oranges (especially) very well. Wide Gamut RGB. and Pro Photo RGB all hold quite a lot more more green information than sRGB but If your file is being printed in just CMYK inks (as they almost inevitably are) I simply don't see how the results could be any better, or only by a tiny amount. However, more information in the file does allow you to colour adjust the file and still keep range. Once you have clipped the edges off a photo, it's impossible to get it back. So unless your printers specifically ask for it (and bear in mind they might do that simply because they have heard somewhere that it is better) stick to sRGB. I certainly met plenty of printers who had a very "BASIC" understanding of the technologies involved between camera and press). Some are geeks too though. As I have said before though, 99.9% of people will never know and of the .1% that's left, 99% won't care. If you have that 1% as a customer, maybe it's time to change careers ;) One slight drawback of holding more information than you need is what to do with it? Do you ignore it when you print or try and compress the extra information into what you can use. Some uses of Adobe RGB have resulted in poorer results than if it was sRGB. Like trying to print at very high LPI values. More is not always better.

These were set separately, grouped and then a graduated fill applied to the group.

Quite easy in AP Do the man and black text first. Don't worry about the outside edge. You will mask it out. Set the inside text over him and change opacity to blend it in. Draw a mask around the text you want to keep and the inside of the man with the selection brush (snap to edges off) Go to quick mask and tweak if necessary. Click on the little "new mask" icon in layers panel Make sure layer order is right That will give you the inner bit. Do the coloured text over the man. If you set it in one block, or group it, you can select the graduation tool and colour it in a gradient. Any type of gradient to suit your taste, like linear, conical etc. Draw a mask again, around the outside edge and inside (shaped a bit like an arch). Pen tool might be best and turn into a selection. Quickmask again. Use a big soft brush at 20% opacity and paint in (Blend) where you want the text to fade at the edges, inside and outside Click on the mask icon Thats the outer bit. Make sure layer order is right to put the inner bit on top. You might have to do a couple more sections, but you get the idea. The masking itself should only take a few minutes. In fact it took me a lot longer to write this description than to actually do it on the sample I just tried. Doing the text will take quite a bit longer. You might have a problem with exporting it at a small size when Affinity turns it into a JPEG and it's no longer text. It will obviously take some experimenting to get it right. Good luck.

If you have the hand selected "View tool" it shows you dimensions, filesize and camera information (if available) on the context toolbar. Third from top

I'll take that as a No

Is it possible to put other image provides in the Stock search. It only seems to have Shutterstock and I can't find a way of adding any.

Go to Layer - New Fill Layer Simply click on a colour to change the colour to whatever you want. (The fill layer probably started white) Drag the fill layer below your pixel layer in the Layers panel. That's it, three clicks and a drag. If you want a colour gradient, look at the context bar when you create the fill layer, it should say Type - Solid and then a short colour bar in whatever colour you just choose. If you click on the "Solid" bit it will open a drop down menu, you have the option to choose a colour gradient fill. Like linear, elliptical, radial. Select one and the gradient tool will then be active, drag it across the page and you get a graduated fill. Click on the circle at either end to set a colour, say yellow at one end then red at the other end and it will graduate between them. It is also possible to graduate from, say, red to yellow and then back to red (or blue even), Click on the line and it will add a new control point, you can then set the colour of that to get three colours. More if you want. There is a little slider on the bar between the colour points to adjust the blend. BTW, are you sure the background layer was selected when you tried to fill the erased carpet area with colour? It is easy to add an adjustment layer and try to edit that, or even deselect the layer, wondering why nothing is happening. Don't ask me how I know that ;)

Most men get distracted very easily ;)

You know what the first three letters of assumption are, don't you ;)

Why is the View Tool (the hand) called Liquify Hand Tool in the Liquify Persona and the View Tool everywhere else. Windows AP A hidden feature? Just curious.

Well, if it has handles already, ,it is a "smooth node" and the handles are part of the whole node/control handle object, so no. However, if you want to turn a smooth node into a node without handles, a "cusp node", Alt - Clicking on it converts it. i.e. removes the handles from the node. It might well change the shape though. You can drag the line either side of the node without affecting the line at the other side of the node. If you look at the status bar at the very bottom of the window, if gives you information about what the node is and what the modifier keys do as you "hover".

True. I was just trying to make a point about the number of clicks. I can also imagine in most cases wanting to actually do something with the greyscale layer before converting/rasterizing so your method would be better in almost every case.

In fact my original calculation of three clicks was grossly overestimated. Sorry AP Right click on the channel you want Select Create Mask Layer That's it, done. That is precisely half the number of clicks needed in PS. If you want to get it there permanently in the Alpha (no mask layer) just merge in down. That might take a couple more clicks :D

Doesn't even need to do all that in his case if he right clicks on the channel he wants and selects "Create Mask Layer" I don't see how a macro would help. You have to click on the layer first then it's only one click.

Me four. I didn't even consider using the Rasterize to Mask option for an already rasterized layer, so found an alternative bodge, Now, had it been a vector image I wanted to make into a mask by rasterizing it. According to the help files RasterizingShape, Line, and Text layers can be rasterized to create raster layers. This "flattening" operation can be performed manually or automatically (when applying filters or retouch brushes). According to an Affinity help search Rasterization is only a requirement if the appearance of complex vector gradients or effects need to be honoured, particularly for print artwork. Rasterize to Mask Somewhat less. Just saying :)

Why not copy everything onto one layer. Fill the background with white, select all your design elements and fill with white, make the lines black (any thickness you like) and print. Your design is still there, untouched, simply hide the "print" layer. I just tried that (Xara Designer) but any program with layers will do it and it took me 20 seconds. It would take Serif a lot longer to program that in and it would not always work. i.e. Do all your design elements have an outline or a suitable colour? An outline of a thin yellow line would not be visible on a poster! The print layer way is very fast and flexible.

Do you mean the pen tool? It looks like a fountain pen with a gold nib and is no 5 from the bottom although the node tool is also there (little white triangle thing) and that might be in focus (on top). It is just above the shape tool. Shortcut is "P". Press P a couple of times and you will see them swapping place.

Ha! In Affinity Photo 1 Right click on the channel you want 2 Click on create mask layer 3 Drag that to the layer below In Photoshop 1 Click on the channel you want 2 Ctrl C 3 Click on the Alpha 4 Ctrl V And how do you Ctrl C and Ctrl V ? add two more (right) clicks to bring up the menu, move your left hand to click (press) the modifier keys both times (I make that 6 clicks) or go all the way up to the edit menu? Not only is Affinity photo less clicks, you can do it all within a small focused area and it is totally non destructive. That's er, :unsure: 17.8% more productive ? Actually, with practice it should be almost twice as fast which is 62% ;) Anyone come up with less clicks ?

I am not 100% sure what you mean without seeing it but You could select something and put it on a layer first before using the perspective tool on just that, You could use the Mesh Warp tool. You can draw nodes and move just one small area. So yes you can.

Nik ones seem to work fine, mostly. Can't speak for the others I don't seem to be able to put in youtube links but search for this Installing Nik Plugins Affinity Photo At least it shows you how.

Yes, it is a feature I'd like to see, if only because it would help the migration of us long term PS users. Using channels is quite common. I have come across a few others too, some like this I have found a workaround, some not. I must admit, I had to do one quick image for someone a few days back and reverted to Photoshop. I feel so ashamed :( I once created a 9 channel file for tee shirt printing. If you do have to do a lot, go for the one click macro!

Still three clicks but if after "Erase paper" you use "erase" in the greyscale layers blending mode, you can adjust opacity to vary the effect.