Yasir

I just watched the video from christidu toit, i don’t get any banding horizontal lines, like his. I have flickering issue, iMac 21” (late 2015) 16GB Catalina. i think it happened after I connected to a dual screen monitor. Yesterday I updated my Publisher, and it was doing the same flickering as it did in AD. My observations: on my display, the whole screen goes black real quick with certain tools, the text tool is the best to test it with. Upon selecting the text tool and double click on active text or scroll to select it,or just hover text tool over a text box; once moving the text tool to another text box, the flicker happens, only one flicker. I tried it with the rectangle tool, but no issue with that. same as Affinity Photo, only when selecting the Text tool as well. It seems there is something with the text tool that is causing this quick flicker I have the whole Adobe iCloud installed, not sure if it’s a glitch from that. I don’t think it’s my graphics card, because it didn’t happen before, I use AD on daily basis. I would ditch the whole Adobe product, but I’m a freelancer and if I was sent an Ai file to work with, at least I have illustrator just handy, a costly handy. I read all those posted on this subject, was not clear if any mentioned having a dual monitor running. I will have to disconnect and see if that is an issue, but I have some work to finish off in another software. thanks yasir

I wonder if I could take screen shots of a series of graphics (about 30) I created in AD, but it has to be a fixed size (1920x1080), to use later in a video editing software, DaVinci Resolve to animate. the screen shots from a Mac, either option-command- 3 or option-command-4 will not determine a fixed aspect ratio, I wonder if AP, has a capability like Photoshop to automate several shots as an action? thanks.

In order to check your fonts, if you are in a mac, open the PDF in Preview. Sometimes in AD if you open the same document that you made a PDF from n exporting, when opening it will ask you about fonts if they were corrupt. Also, a workmaround as mentioned is to convert the fonts to curves and then export, but remember to go back to document before you close it and command-z to step before converting to curve. Also, upon importing a new font to Font Book - default font utility on a Mac- it will give you a warning wether the font is corrupt or an acceptable.

I am using AD, the Slice feature, I think it is a bug in AD, I wanted to create 4 PDFs from an oversized document, so I used the slice and exported each slice, but when I decided to redo, commmand z, all the way to the beginning of the document, it seems the 4 slices I created on that document have trimmed the at the slice position; so if you select one area, it will select 1/4 of the document, and does not remember that we are starting from scratch. I was trying to print an over sized poster by tiling it when printed and later tape it, considering the bleed area, gave an extra half inch on all sides. Any feed back? Thanks

You can still recreate the whole graphic using AD, mind you in Adobe illustrator your fonts will be vector to use with Mesh Tool. I normally place that PDF file on lower layer, locked and redraw what I have, if you know the name of the font and you have it in your system, then you can size the letters - convert curves- to match your PDF. Remember in AD you can skew top to bottom and left to right only. This is a work around only. I look forward to see how Mesh tool work in AD.

As for the font, try Kudos Book SSi, or any of the Kudos font family. Speaking of fonts Whenever I go down the arrow key to see how the font looks on a selected title, once I see one I like, as in Kudos, I hit the enter key-on a mac- and the font is already selected. But if I decide to go back the list from where I left off, I have to start from the top again, leaving the area of favorite fonts and type the first few letters as in Kudos, otherwise from favorites area it will take me to the top of the letters of fonts that start with K and then scroll down to Kudos. Anyone had the same experience. Thanks

That is a good idea. If it not possible, I have a partial solution: to point with an arrow the name of tool the narrator speaks. For example, if the tutorial mentions how to move a layer to the top, by selecting it and drag it to where you want, then show the arrow and "select and drag layer" should come on the screen.

Yes, you can draw anything you want with the Pen Tool, it takes a little practice, and then you would become a pro. Here is a good toturail on the basics of the Peb Tool and Corner Tool. Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw_lSHZv5y0 Also, you can draw one leg and make a copy and reflect it to the other side, so both will match, just like the arms, in illustration you provided. Good article by the way about from the link in your post.

You need to use Affinity Photo, not Affinity Designer for this task, I know you mentioned it's not a stacking focus question, but for what you are asking, you would achieve those results with stacking in Affinity Photo. I just did that a couple of weeks ago with flames, I took 200 shots of flames burning in a fires place, my camera was on the tripod, and I got good results. In case you did not see a tutorial on stacking, here is one, it's simple and to the point. - Video Tube for YouTube - iPhone/iPadI hope this helped.

Here is a menu I am working on, the flames, which I shot, I found Stacking in AP helpful, as I shot on a tripod and took about 200 flames in different exposures and F stops. I had to cut out some of the flames, I found the best was the pen tool. All other photos, I had to cut around them to knock off background. My methods after cutting around ( or as some know it as clipping), if I were in Photo I just copy the mask and file and bring to Designer. I'm not sure if this keeps the file much larger than saving an eps and place from Designer. Thanks. Yasir

I have been using AD & AP for one year now, most of my work is in graphic design and food photography, which I use AP to cut around an image, the choices are either the lasso tool or brush tool; I'm used to the pen tool being an illustrator user for 20 some years. Most tutorial videos utilize the brush tool combined with the refining method, I was wondering is it possible to convert the marching lines in the Freehand Lasso tool to vector lines, this will be really ideal to fix certain spots. And would like to hear other opinions what is the best method to cut around in a photo, I'm sure Freehand Lasso tool in AD in the pixel persona will do the same as AP, lasso tool. Thanks.

Hi jateyaert It's seems that the fonts have not been loaded, they are pixelated. Also the art looks pixelated. Though the second PDF Jared looks much better. Did you creat the art from scratch, or did you created in another application. Somehow the background has to do with the images not looking so bright. I wider how it looks if you took a screen shot opposed to the PDF. I'll await to see what moderator MEB has to say. I would like to look at the original file though. Yasir.

Just moved from Adobe Illustrator last December and have been using both Desiger and Photo, didn't need illustrator until yesterday. I still have my old CS3 on the older iMac and mangled to import both Ai and eps files to Designer and I had to edit few object which have fallen apart when importing. Will Affinity Designer have such a plugin or a tool for extruding to a 3D. I know of the perspective tool, but this is in Photo and is not victor.

I am thinking you have a combination of blacks, what they call a rich black, having all 4 CMYK colors mixed together, and a 100% Black. Even though you have an RGB on your document. Check what are the colors on the black glow? another possibility, some monitors do not preview the color correctly, like some Dell monitors, but I assume you are in a Mac or iMac, which should be accurate. Also, make a PDF and open in Acrobat or Preview and see how the colors of they changes form your document. I hope any of this helps.

Or you can utilize Preview, a free app from Apple. I use it all the time, I shoot raw, upload to my desktop then open as many as 100 raw photos at a time, I go through them and decide which one I want to deal with in Affinity Photo. BTW, apple' default is Photos, once you insert a card, Photos will open it. But Preview is a great tool, you can open and edit PDFs, and export PNG files with transparency with alpha channel for web or video editing.. Preview is a Swiss Army knife. It has multiple uses.

I recommend Motion 5 from Apple, it's only $49 and works well with Affinity Designer and Affinity Photo, I have already tried it with my project.

One way to work around that, have the images as FPO in Affinity Designer, then when opening exported PDF in Indesign substitute the FPO images with the hires from you folder.

May I also add, about opening your 20,000 photos first in Apple's Preview application, comes free on every Mac, I found it opens as many as 200 photos as once, very fast, either raw or any format, to select which ones to work on before editing in Affinity Photo.

I was wondering if merging visibles or flattening the layers before creating a PDF would resolve issues in printing. I had a similar situation with a menu with photos printed on front and back, when I looked at the proofs from FedexKinko printers they looked fine, but later when the job was processed the results of the photos were slightly lighter and the details have diminished slightly, one of the images was clipped,, it was explained to me that I should have flattened the files or merge visibles before creating the PDF. When printing from Acrobat front and back on the same paper they have to combine both sides to send to digital printer and that caused an issue in printing, I did not like the results. I have had another printing service not being able to print the PDF created from Affinity Designer, so they ant it to the digital printer with an advanced window "print an images". I think there is a related issue with PDF and layering, I have had another issue printing a PDF created in AD, the border of a box was pontine don top of the image, it was displayed correctly on the screen. I resubmitted the file after moving the layer of the. Border to the bottom of the images; original I choose the option of Arrange the order of layer by selecting bring to Front, which caused border to print on top of image.

I would also add about the bleed: even if you set the bleed to .25 inches all around the document in the document setting, you still have to extend the bleed lines manually in the document.

I what like to lock or not allow a PDF that I created in Affinity Designer to be printed by a user only to be used to view the designs. . Is this possible? Thanks for any reply.

I saved that same file as a copy, now the background is working properly. That tells me there is some effect in the art board as I edit it in AP, amped by the way I have posted that once before, the AD app crashes when I select edit in AP. I will not use this feature until the bug gets fixed. In order to edit my images from AD, I just open the image in its own in AP, instead sending the whole document to AP.

I was working on my menu design in AD, I tried the Edited in APhoto feature, somehow in AP after selecting a couple of images to lighten the colors, somehow it affected the background, and when I went back to ADsigner, the background was affected, can't figure out how to change it, it seems anytime I draw another background and fIll with the desired CMYK color, it shifts once I place it on the art board and select arrange to place it in the background position. Any clue? Thanks.

That's good to know. Is it possible to select one image and open it alone without the other images; that caused my AD to crash, but not sure if that is related to this operation I did. (My AD , was booted from a crash on my iMac. therefore I can't say for sure), I'll test it later after a safe start and report. But I really need to know how to open one image, as it was possible in illustrator or Indesign, what you suggested is a great feature as well, BTW, my images have a clipping mask created in AD. Thanks

I designed a menu with images in AD, I did a test, after printing and laminated it looked darker, so in AD, I was trying to open each image from Designer to AP. Is there a way to double click and opens in AP to edit ? Also, what is best way to lighten the images in AP, use the curves and lighten about 20% ? Laminate material tents to darken photos. Thanks.