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AffinityJules

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Everything posted by AffinityJules

  1. Like most things in photo editing there are many ways to achieve the same result. Method 2 1. Open colour image. 2. Add a HSL Adjustment layer and desaturate the image. 3. With a black brush paint over the train to expose the original coloured image of the train. Adjustment layers come with built-in masks which behave in exactly the same way. This method is probably the easiest way to do it, but bear in mind that you will no longer have individual layers to make fine adjustments on.
  2. Ok. This is really simple to do and doesn't take very long. Forget red leaves and such - you already have the burnt orange colour you want in the colour photograph; this will simplify matters. 1. You will need one colour image and one B&W image as separate files but of the same size. 2. Open the colour image then drag & drop the B&W image so that it's the top layer. 3. Add a mask to the B&W image. 4. With a brush set to black (colour), and mask selected, paint over the parts of the train you need to be orange; in effect this will erase the B&W parts and expose the orange image underneath. 5. To clean up the blue sky in the train window set the brush to white (mask selected) and carefully paint it out. 6. Because there are two separate layers you can now make colour/exposure/brightness and contrast, or any other adjustments you like before the image is flattened, or, make adjustments after the image is flattened. The choice is yours.
  3. Do all the above steps and set the coloured masked layer blend mode to either overlay or soft light and set the opacity as required. Go to the document tab and click convert format and then assign RGB mode.
  4. Yup - got it the first time. Convert your B & W image to colour/New pixel layer in the colour of your choice/Add a mask layer then invert the mask/Use your chosen brush to paint over the leaves to expose the colour.
  5. Yes. You can convert a black & white image to a colour document then use masks with colour selections to paint in the leaves. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but that's one method.
  6. Your stroke/outline selection is set to 0.2 pixels. Do as firstdefence and carl123 suggests - this will remove the black outline.
  7. Well. . .it does work, I've tried it! Just make sure you have the layer in question highlighted from the layers panel before you rasterise it.
  8. I just tested your file and the healing brush/clone tool/ will work after the file has been rasterised. In most cases when a tool doesn't work properly just make sure the file is a raster file.
  9. Tool bar with the size of each item? Not sure what you mean by that. If you click on swatches and from the drop down menu choose colour, that will bring the colour palette back - if that's what you're referring to and, assuming you're referring to Photo.
  10. The only time I've known that to happen is after rasterising the text layer - that would render it uneditable. Perhaps you could show us the file in question if it's not too sensitive?
  11. Many ways in which to do this type of thing and, the level of what looks like perlin noise helps out a bit. 1. I used the pen tool to outline the area around the heads and backrest of the cart. 2 Made the selection/feather 2/Inverted the selection. 3. New layer set to current layer and below. 4. Cloned out the offending areas in question. 5. Flattened document. Note: I never used the inpainting tool at all with this image because there was no call for it.
  12. It's rather strange that a program such as Krita can boast a far more superior blur brush effect than its loftier competitors? It can't be that hard these days to emulate such behaviour.
  13. You could try using the gaussian blur filter or live filter then mask out the bits that shouldn't be blurred?
  14. This tool can be a nightmare. Expanding the size seems to make no visible difference to the area you're trying to liquify. It's a bit strange to use, but good luck with it. Yet another tool in need of a decent overhaul.
  15. In my own observations when working with layers: if I skew or distort an image, I always have to rasterise it again in order to make it behave as expected with brushes. etc. I don't know if this behaviour is expected, or if it's a on-going bug? When using this software, I have found that, whenever I alter the dimensions of an image - be it size/skew or whatever, the outer edge of the image becomes pixelated until it is rasterised. I have no explanation for this but have observed this behaviour for some time. Like carl123 your image/layer behaved as normal after I rasterised it.
  16. Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but it sure looks familiar. Go to layers/New Adjustment Layer/HSL adjustment.
  17. Thanks Walt, you hit the jackpot! How do you people know these things? - I was clueless.
  18. I have those painting brushes but they are not the spray brush set I am referring to. The spray brush set was part and parcel of the original photo suite; this is more a question aimed at the staff and I hope they will now what happened to them.
  19. There once existed a range of spray brushes which were integral to the Affinity Photo Suite. However, since the last update and even further back, these spray brushes have suddenly gone. I used to use the spray '8' brush (now completely missing) constantly in some of my work and I find that the spray category is no longer included in the brush list but has now merged with spray and splatter brushes. What has happened to these original spray brushes and is there any way that I can get them back? The supplied link is an old conversation I had with someone using the same set of brushes. This is for real reference in support that at one time they really did exist. https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/84064-timelapse-of-making-artwork/&tab=comments#comment-443392
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