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Everything posted by h_d

  1. For extra points, the attached macro exposes the a parameter of the equations x=x*(1/a) and y=y*(1/a) and then clips the canvas, to give a sliding image scaler: Original: Scaled to 0.25 (25%) Hope this helps someone! Image Scaler.afmacro
  2. The Filters-Distort-Equations route suggested by @John Rostron works for me with one significant modification. Somewhat counter-intuitively, the equations are as follows: x=x*2 y=y*2 (Dividing the dimensions by 2 halves the depth and height of the image visible in the document window, giving a quarter of the original image.) Your macro would then need to clip the canvas. I've attached a .afmacro file which shrinks images to 50%. It can be incorporated into a batch process if needed. Make backups before using, and use at your own risk. Half size.afmacro
  3. Hi @Polygonius The OSX utility Cocktail lets you specify the file format and location for screen grabs. I don't think it will let you change the size. It's not free, but it's not particularly expensive either and does tons of other things too. Hope this helps, h_d
  4. Glad you worked it out! I think it's up to you whether you upload your original document - sometimes I suppose there may be issues with copyright or commercial confidentiality.
  5. Hi @miwal! I think this will work... Delete the second sun. Select all the sunbeams in the first sun (but not the centre) and group them. Copy the group, paste the copy and move it away from the original sun. In the Layers panel, expand the group you have just pasted and select all the contained symbols. Right-click on them and choose Ungroup: This will give you a group of curves: Now turn this group into a symbol: With this symbol selected in the Layers palette, change the colour of the fill and stroke: To create and re-colour further copies, drop in another symbol, unsync, re-colour this symbol, then sync again: I may be making things too complicated, but hopefully this or some combination of these steps will work for you. Cheers, h_d
  6. Hi @bp1000 If .nef files work in the same way as other proprietary RAW files, then the original file - sometimes called the 'digital negative', is not normally editable in any software. Changes to the original have to be exported to, or "saved as", a file format such as .jpg, .tiff or .png. The original RAW file stays the same. I don't have a Nikon camera myself, but in Apple Photos, if I edit one of my Panasonic .RW2 files with Affinity Photo, the editable image is automatically converted to a TIFF before any editing or manipulation takes place. (The file name extension displayed in the Affinity Photo interface is .tiff) The image is not opened into the Develop Persona (as it would be if the RAW file was opened directly from the Finder) but into the Photo Persona. It possible to switch into the Develop Persona, or any of the others if you want to. When I save and close the image, the Apple Photos interface now shows what appears to be an edited version of the RAW file, with an ".RW2" name extension, but personally I think this is misleading. It's still possible to use Apple Photos' own editing interface to revert the image to the original version. Basically, whenever you edit any image of any kind in Apple Photos, whether using the Affinity Photos extensions or Apple Photos' own interface, you are working on a copy. The original remains untouched, and what happens to the edited copy if you revert is a secret known only to Apple . Hope this makes sense!
  7. Hi @crazyM Have you discovered/investigated Symbols? I think they could go some way to helping. Cheers
  8. Hi @DeMar, Click on the tiny near-invisible grey arrow in the bottom right of the Artistic Text tool. Alternatively, typing T on the keyboard will toggle between the two text tools. Hope this helps!
  9. The Gaussian Blur filter is "borrowing" (or perhaps "spreading") white pixels from inside the selection. If you want to restrict the blurring to a single layer, as opposed to @HuniSenpai's response above , you could try a Median Blur: -> (I've hidden the marching ants to make the edge easier to see). But at 100px radius there is a bit of spreading. Cheers
  10. Hi @gstepic, Does the camera itself recognise the lens? If it's a fully manual lens (no autofocus, no aperture control, no electrical connection...) then no EXIF data will be written to images shot with that lens. You can check this either in View-Studio-EXIF: Or in the contextual menu: Both the above shots were taken with a fully manual lens - the camera data (and much more) has been written to the image, but there's no lens metadata. And if the lens metadata isn't there in the original image, then no software will recognise the lens.
  11. Assuming you mean Affinity Photo and not Affinity Designer... First, duplicate your background layer: select in in the Layers panel and type Cmd-J (Mac) or the Windows equivalent. Then, with the original (locked) background layer selected, pull down the Layers menu and choose New Fill Layer. Change the colour of the fill layer to black. Your Layers panel should now look like this: Next, pull down the Document menu and choose Resize Canvas. You'll get this dialog: Set the anchor point to top middle and click the padlock icon to prevent proportional resizing. Select your preferred units. The dialog will now look like this (I chose millimetres): In the right-hand dimensions box, type in the new depth for the canvas and then click Resize: Your document will now look like this: In the Layers panel, right-click on the black Fill layer and choose Rasterise, to convert it to a Pixel layer: Now right-click on the top layer in the Layers panel and choose Merge Down. This should give you a document like this, with the original unedited Background layer still locked at the bottom of the layers stack: I would save this in native Affinity Photo format and then export to the final image format. Hope this helps...
  12. Works for me too: Before you start, make sure that you have the background layer selected in the layers palette. Then, when you enable the Layer effect, you'll get an "fx" marker next to the name of the layer. Click the colour swatch in the Layer Effects panel to choose your colour. Make sure that Opacity in the Layer Effects panel is set to 100% and that the Blend Mode is set to Normal.
  13. Hi, In your snapping options (the white arrow next to the magnet) , make sure you have at least "Enable snapping" and "Snap to object bounding boxes" checked: This will let you snap guides to objects.
  14. Hi, Make a careful selection of the walls of the background buildings, leaving out the windows, road signs etc (my selection is fairly rough but gives you an idea of what you might achieve with more care and time.) Now add a Recolour Adjustment. My settings are below - it's quite desaturated, and I've set the blend mode to Lighter Colour. It's open to experimentation...
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