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Found 9 results

  1. Hi – I wonder if there is any way in Affinity Designer and/or Photo of doing the following. Imagine a can, say like a can of paint. I can draw a can that looks fairly 3D-ish, and/or use a photo of an actual can and overlay something. I then have a whole range of 2D labels, basically rectangles with text and logos on, that I want to paste over the can graphic (or can photo) in such a way that it looks distorted, like it’s actually wrapped around the can, like a real label would. I have played about with Mesh Warp and Perspective in Photo for ages, but can’t get anything that looks any good, and I can’t find anything in Designer that seems to do anything like this. I’ve read on the web that Photoshop does have some very limited 3D capabilities, and indeed I’ve spoken to someone who said they’ve done something like this in Photoshop (allegedly), but they could not give me any details (and I don’t have Photoshop anyway). Any suggestions what I could do in Designer/Photo?
  2. As a follow-up to the recent Perspective Skew Correction Video by Affinity Photo, I attempted to take the perspective correction one step further by using the Mesh Warp Tool. Below shows the original image used in the video, the application of the Source Mesh, the resulting Destination Mesh, and the resulting image. If the experts at Affinity know an easier way to do it, please let me and the other Affinity Photo devotees how . . . .
  3. I've noticed this on AP 1.5, and now I find it's present on 1.6 too. I'm using mesh warp to form mouth shapes for lip synching an animation. (I'll share it with you all on New Year's Eve ) I have two layers, one for the top lip and one for the bottom. When I click to set a node, the active layer moves very slightly down and right. When the warp is applied the layer moves back to the correct position, so it's not a problem as far as the finished image is concerned, but it does make it difficult to know precisely where I'm warping to. It only seems to be a small number of pixels, and for this application such tiny errors as might arise are negligible; but it would be a problem in other cases. Here's a screen shot with three layers (the hand is on top): This is the active layer (top lip): And the three layers before warping: And this animated gif shows the layer 'jumping' when a node is created: And in case you're wondering, it's one of Raphael's putti ... I'm running Windows 7 on a Toshiba Satellite laptop with 8GB of RAM.
  4. Hi, I have the trial version of affinity photo, and am considering buying the full version but was wondering is it just the trial version on affinity photo that is missing the text and mesh warp tool? On windows. Thanks.
  5. ​Hi, I have the Affinity Photo Trial Version, I am planning on buying the product but as I was testing it out I noticed that neither the text on the left bar nor the mesh warp tool on the left bar were there. Will these be there in the full verison. I do use Windows. Please let me know. Thanks!
  6. I shoot panoramas inside buildings with moderately wide-angle lenses (typically 24mm efl). Some parts of the interior are close to the camera and so the stitched image has considerable distortion in those areas. AP stitches better than PS in most situations but unfortunately I find that AP's mesh warp is almost useless for straightening two dimensional distortions compared to PS's Adaptive Wide-Angle filter. So, much as I would like to wean myself off PS, I can't. Am I missing something - am I not using the mesh warp tool correctly (I've watched the tutorial videos many times)?
  7. Hello! This feature was mentioned in another (a bit unrelated) topic so I'm creating a new one to highlight it. This is just for Affinity Photo. A Live Mesh Warp Filter Layer would allow for the creation of complex product mockup images with embedded documents. For example, bottle labels or round cans. Thanks!
  8. Hi I've found that for me the mesh warp tool in many cases works better for straightening than the other options. Maybe include it if you ever update Two advantages:- you can drag your picture outside the canvas, so you won't have to crop the empty edges afterwards - you don't "break" the lines in buildings, for example here http://www.panoramio.com/photo/121475550
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