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Everything posted by BlauerClaus

  1. To my best knowledge, you cannot assign filters to multiple files. There is no way to select multiple open pictures. What you can do is to add filters to one picture, then you select these filters, copy them into the clipboard and then you select the other pictures one by one and paste the stack of filters. This is quite fast, and you can individually adjust the filters afterwards. If you find a better way, please share it here. Best regards BlauerClaus
  2. Hi guys, This is a workaround tutorial. I have summarized the findings of this discussion thread in a short video tutorial. It shows a way how to make a shape, how to assign a distortion filter, how to adjust the effect within the shape and how to make the effect movable around the picture. However, it also shows the limitations. It is currently not possible to directly associate a shape with a lens effect. Better would be: that we could assign a live filter directly to a shape, that the life filter is moving its position relative to the shape Possibly, the Affinity Photo team can comment it? Best regards Blauer Claus Tutorial Distortion Effect.mov
  3. If you want to add a picture in this forum, press this button. Best regards BlauerClaus
  4. Possibly these are stupid questions, but even the help file have not helped me: - Why can we change the black point in the basic settings in the develop persona, but not the white point? - A the same position in the Develop Persona: what is the difference between Exposure and Brightness? Playing around with both sliders show identical changes in the histogram and photo. Best regards BlauerClaus
  5. Maybe the team of Serif can give us a hint. The need of having motion in a photo editor is the real time tuning of the effects. We use that commonly for all standard exposure and shadow effects. You need to see them in real time to make adjustments. Especial the magnification of text requires motion to see which part of the text is magnified. Best regards BlauerClaus
  6. Hi crabtrem, Interesting approach, yes it works, even with the spherical effect. The key drawback of your approach is that the effect is not limited to the shapes border. In your case, the shape must be bigger than the effect, then it looks perfect as in your video. But, when the effect is bigger than the shape, it becomes visible. Look at the attached screenshot. Especially for a magnifier, it is important to limit the magnification effect to the border of the physical magnifier geometry. Use cases of my original questions are: - you want to emphasis a part of a picture, - you want to create a rain drop on top of the picture of a leave. Then you need such kind of glass effect, assigned to the shape of the magnifier or the rain drop. Best regards BlauerClaus
  7. Hi guys, I have summarized the finding in a short video tutorial. It shows a way how to make a shape, to assign a distortion filter, how to adjust the effect within the shape and how to make the effect movable around the picture. It also shows the limitations. What I would wish is that we could assign a live filter directly to a shape, that the life filter is moving its position with the shape automatically ​Thanks to crabtrem and barninga for your contributions! Best regards Blauer Claus Tutorial Distortion Effect.mov
  8. The Spherical Filter does it, thank you crabtrem I can move it around. But how can I assign the distortion effect to any shape? A triangle, a rectangle, a star, any self defined shape? This is why I hoped to start with a geometric shape, and then to associate the distortion effect to this shape. Best regards BlauerClaus
  9. @crabtrem: This looks nice, thank you, but unfortunately, this magnifier is static. You cannot move the oval around and the underlying layers follow (as a real magnifier would do). In your picture, when you move the oval, the ladies face will be moved around. This is because you determined the position of the distortion effect in the beginning. I difference to your approach, I would like to apply the distortion filter to the oval, and then this oval becomes a "live magnifier" that you can move around. Is this possible? Best regards BlauerClaus
  10. Is there a way in Affinity Photo to generate this effect: - you have a picture, e.g. of a leave, - you draw a shape, e.g. an ellipse, on top of the first picture, as a second layer (e.g. a magnifier glass) - you assign a live distortion effect to this ellipse, e.g. a wave, sphere, lense distortion etc. (the magnifier effect) - and this effect is then applied to the layers below the shape, but within the frame of the shape? You could design a magnifier glass on top of the leave picture, and while moving this glass around, you see the magnification effect constantly. - Useful to find a right position for this effect to magnify the right spot. - Useful to draw a rain drop on top of the leave which really looks like a drop, including distortion of the water. Ideas? Best regards BlauerClaus
  11. Hi MEB - is there any way to give the zoomed part of the picture any kind of glass effect, lens distortion effect or sheric distrotion effect which simulates the glass distortion? Whenever I apply one of the present effects to the shape or the underlying picture, it is applied to the center of the overall picture, and not in the center of the shape. Ideas? Best regards BlauerClaus
  12. Share to Apple Photos removes the pictures EXIF data. Is there an intention behind this? Best regards BlauerClaus
  13. +1 A good example for needing two pictures side by side is global cloning in Affinity Photos. Best regards BlauerClaus
  14. I have watched this tutorial two times. To be honest: the idea is good, the topic is of interest, but the way you do it makes it the worst tutorial among all the others. Look at Andies tutorials: he guides the user though his ideas. You don't. How to improve: - Some of the menus you open and use are visible for 1/10th of a second. Maybe 2/10th of a second to not be unfair. Even when I manually stop the video, I have a low chance to see the details of what you do. Even when I know what you do. Please slow down. You dont need to make it in 60 seconds, 180 seconds are fine. Give your idea time to enfold. Speed is not a quality for itself. - Some of the menus you use (e.g. in the bottom of the video) are very much on the bottom border of the video. When I stop the video to see what you do, then the youtube menu overlays your Affinity Photo menu. Hence, I have no chance to see it. You see, most of the things are just craftmanship you can easily introduce. I encourage you to publish an improved version. - speed up on things that take time (as selecting the shape to make it conform to the eyes) - slow down on moments you do the significant actions - if you prefer to not speak, blend some overlay text that summarizes your ideas. I'm curious to see an improved version. Best regars BlauerClaus
  15. Well, here some answers: 1. If you want to open files from your iPhoto library, you have two options. Either you open the menu "view/media browser", or you open the menu "File/open" and then you navigate in the left bar to the item "Photos", here you have access to your photo software. 2. If you want to export files from iPhoto, you can drag and drop them from iPhoto to somewhere. When you use the "export" function, you can select the folder of your choice, and you are not limited to the desktop. If you have no other choice than the Desktop, click the little arrow on the right hand side of the file name. This opens the complete file dialog. 3. If you want to save the resulting pictures form Affinity Photo, you should select "file/export". This results in picture files of your choice. The Affinity icon you get when you save the Affinity project file. This is similar to the psd file you get from Photoshop. Did this help you? Best regards BlauerClaus
  16. Topaz Denoise is one of the good examples of how PhotoShop Plugins can work in Affinity Photo. Please make it a "known" plugin. Until 1.4.1, it is remarked as "unknown". Best regards BlauerClaus
  17. In 1.4.1, this is still open. Please don't forget this. Best regards BlauerClaus
  18. In 1.4.1, this is still open. Please don't forget this. Best regards BlauerClaus
  19. There are many ways. My favorite: 1. Open your picture and perform a frequency separation. The low frequency picture should be slightly more blurry than before, the high frequency only shows edges. 2. Select the high frequency, right click and then select "Duplicate". Voila! Best regard BlauerClaus
  20. And what compression is actually used while sharing to Photos? - default 85% - or the value I have predefined in the export dialogue? The latter one would be my favorite and would really support the workflow even of advanced users. Best regards BlauerClaus
  21. Exporting a project ends up in a dialog which allows me to configure the file format and compression and finally the folder. But "File"/"Sharing" (in German "Teilen") allows to send the picture to e.g. "Fotos". Question: what file format and what compression AP uses then? Is there any setting to configure this? I still do not understand the sense of this compared to Export. Best regards BlauerClaus
  22. My Topaz Denoise 5 runs as expected. Here is what you could do: - Add a second path to the plugin search folders: "/". - To do this, press "Add" and then select the "Macintosh HD" hard disk root. Then press ok. - This adds a second path "/". - Then restart Affinity Photos and try it out. Best regards BlauerClaus
  23. In Affinity Photo 1.4, there is only a single noise reduction slider. I would wish that you have at least 3: - for highlights - for mid tone - for shadows The idea is to minimize unwanted noise reduction. Even better would be to set the treshhold between highlights, mid tone and shadows interactively. I'm sure Affinity Photo can already make it with some masks, but I could not figure out how. This would be a nice tutorial. However, having this condensed in the noise reduction dialog would significantly improve the noise reduction filter. Best regards BlauerClaus
  24. Conrad2k, your question caused me to experiment a while. A very general answer is: there is no optimum. An optimum assumes that there is a number of photos from which on the result gets worse. This is not the case. Every additional photo improves the noise reduction. But the contribution per photo gets smaller and smaller, and the calculation time gets higher and higher. While adding pictures to the stack, my observations are (observed with 100%zoom): - the first 4 pictures significantly contribute to the noise reduction improvement, wow! - the 5.-8. picture can be considered as polishment, they raise the noise reduction of the picture to 90% of the overall result. - the 9. and 10. picture only slightly contribute to improvements, i guess it is now about 98% of what you can reach. - the 11. and 12. picture brings quite invisible improvements, its more the light than the noise that changes slightly - the 13. and 14. picture are the last pictures where I remark any visible changes at all at 100% zoom For more pictures, I have to zoom in: - the 15.-18. picture bring, visible with 170% zoom, still slight improvements on pixel level Finally it is a trade of between quality, computational power, hard disk space and time. If you want maximum quality and you have a zoom of 150%, you see still noticeable noise reduction improvements between 14 and 18 pictures. Another perspective: - at the zoom level "overall picture" (cmd 0): the 11.-18. pictures do not bring remarkable improvements - at the zoom level "100%": the 14.-18. pictures do not bring remarkable improvements As you see, - 10 pictures provide super results for the overall picture zoom, - 14 pictures provides super results even for 100% zoom, and - 18 pictures are for purists. Here the examples for 1, 4, 10, 14 and 18 pictures. Click on them to see them full size (each ca. 220kb) In any case, thanks to the Affinity Photo development team for this powerful feature. The noise reduction is impressive. Best regards BlauerClaus
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