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  1. To my best knowledge, you cannot assign filters to multiple files. There is no way to select multiple open pictures. What you can do is to add filters to one picture, then you select these filters, copy them into the clipboard and then you select the other pictures one by one and paste the stack of filters. This is quite fast, and you can individually adjust the filters afterwards. If you find a better way, please share it here. Best regards BlauerClaus
  2. Hi guys, This is a workaround tutorial. I have summarized the findings of this discussion thread in a short video tutorial. It shows a way how to make a shape, how to assign a distortion filter, how to adjust the effect within the shape and how to make the effect movable around the picture. However, it also shows the limitations. It is currently not possible to directly associate a shape with a lens effect. Better would be: that we could assign a live filter directly to a shape, that the life filter is moving its position relative to the shape Possibly, the Affinity Photo team can comment it? Best regards Blauer Claus Tutorial Distortion Effect.mov
  3. If you want to add a picture in this forum, press this button. Best regards BlauerClaus
  4. Possibly these are stupid questions, but even the help file have not helped me: - Why can we change the black point in the basic settings in the develop persona, but not the white point? - A the same position in the Develop Persona: what is the difference between Exposure and Brightness? Playing around with both sliders show identical changes in the histogram and photo. Best regards BlauerClaus
  5. Maybe the team of Serif can give us a hint. The need of having motion in a photo editor is the real time tuning of the effects. We use that commonly for all standard exposure and shadow effects. You need to see them in real time to make adjustments. Especial the magnification of text requires motion to see which part of the text is magnified. Best regards BlauerClaus
  6. Hi crabtrem, Interesting approach, yes it works, even with the spherical effect. The key drawback of your approach is that the effect is not limited to the shapes border. In your case, the shape must be bigger than the effect, then it looks perfect as in your video. But, when the effect is bigger than the shape, it becomes visible. Look at the attached screenshot. Especially for a magnifier, it is important to limit the magnification effect to the border of the physical magnifier geometry. Use cases of my original questions are: - you want to emphasis a part of a picture, - you want to create a rain drop on top of the picture of a leave. Then you need such kind of glass effect, assigned to the shape of the magnifier or the rain drop. Best regards BlauerClaus
  7. Hi guys, I have summarized the finding in a short video tutorial. It shows a way how to make a shape, to assign a distortion filter, how to adjust the effect within the shape and how to make the effect movable around the picture. It also shows the limitations. What I would wish is that we could assign a live filter directly to a shape, that the life filter is moving its position with the shape automatically ​Thanks to crabtrem and barninga for your contributions! Best regards Blauer Claus Tutorial Distortion Effect.mov
  8. The Spherical Filter does it, thank you crabtrem I can move it around. But how can I assign the distortion effect to any shape? A triangle, a rectangle, a star, any self defined shape? This is why I hoped to start with a geometric shape, and then to associate the distortion effect to this shape. Best regards BlauerClaus
  9. @crabtrem: This looks nice, thank you, but unfortunately, this magnifier is static. You cannot move the oval around and the underlying layers follow (as a real magnifier would do). In your picture, when you move the oval, the ladies face will be moved around. This is because you determined the position of the distortion effect in the beginning. I difference to your approach, I would like to apply the distortion filter to the oval, and then this oval becomes a "live magnifier" that you can move around. Is this possible? Best regards BlauerClaus
  10. Is there a way in Affinity Photo to generate this effect: - you have a picture, e.g. of a leave, - you draw a shape, e.g. an ellipse, on top of the first picture, as a second layer (e.g. a magnifier glass) - you assign a live distortion effect to this ellipse, e.g. a wave, sphere, lense distortion etc. (the magnifier effect) - and this effect is then applied to the layers below the shape, but within the frame of the shape? You could design a magnifier glass on top of the leave picture, and while moving this glass around, you see the magnification effect constantly. - Useful to find a right position for this effect to magnify the right spot. - Useful to draw a rain drop on top of the leave which really looks like a drop, including distortion of the water. Ideas? Best regards BlauerClaus
  11. Hi MEB - is there any way to give the zoomed part of the picture any kind of glass effect, lens distortion effect or sheric distrotion effect which simulates the glass distortion? Whenever I apply one of the present effects to the shape or the underlying picture, it is applied to the center of the overall picture, and not in the center of the shape. Ideas? Best regards BlauerClaus
  12. Share to Apple Photos removes the pictures EXIF data. Is there an intention behind this? Best regards BlauerClaus
  13. +1 A good example for needing two pictures side by side is global cloning in Affinity Photos. Best regards BlauerClaus
  14. I have watched this tutorial two times. To be honest: the idea is good, the topic is of interest, but the way you do it makes it the worst tutorial among all the others. Look at Andies tutorials: he guides the user though his ideas. You don't. How to improve: - Some of the menus you open and use are visible for 1/10th of a second. Maybe 2/10th of a second to not be unfair. Even when I manually stop the video, I have a low chance to see the details of what you do. Even when I know what you do. Please slow down. You dont need to make it in 60 seconds, 180 seconds are fine. Give your idea time to enfold. Speed is not a quality for itself. - Some of the menus you use (e.g. in the bottom of the video) are very much on the bottom border of the video. When I stop the video to see what you do, then the youtube menu overlays your Affinity Photo menu. Hence, I have no chance to see it. You see, most of the things are just craftmanship you can easily introduce. I encourage you to publish an improved version. - speed up on things that take time (as selecting the shape to make it conform to the eyes) - slow down on moments you do the significant actions - if you prefer to not speak, blend some overlay text that summarizes your ideas. I'm curious to see an improved version. Best regars BlauerClaus
  15. Well, here some answers: 1. If you want to open files from your iPhoto library, you have two options. Either you open the menu "view/media browser", or you open the menu "File/open" and then you navigate in the left bar to the item "Photos", here you have access to your photo software. 2. If you want to export files from iPhoto, you can drag and drop them from iPhoto to somewhere. When you use the "export" function, you can select the folder of your choice, and you are not limited to the desktop. If you have no other choice than the Desktop, click the little arrow on the right hand side of the file name. This opens the complete file dialog. 3. If you want to save the resulting pictures form Affinity Photo, you should select "file/export". This results in picture files of your choice. The Affinity icon you get when you save the Affinity project file. This is similar to the psd file you get from Photoshop. Did this help you? Best regards BlauerClaus
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