GMPhotography

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About GMPhotography

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  • Birthday April 5

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    https://www.flickr.com/photos/gmphotography32/

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    Kamloops, B.C. Canada

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  1. thank you Alfred
  2. Here are some of my fall exploits. Consist of Panoramas and impressions. LilahFallImpression by Greg Murray, on Flickr GREG8047-Pano by Greg Murray, on Flickr McDiramidPano45mm by Greg Murray, on Flickr FallTreesFenceFixed-Edit-2 by Greg Murray, on Flickr FallAbstract by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  3. so cool! Good work!
  4. Like GarryP said, nicely done. I like the drama you've created in each shot.
  5. PS: light pollution is a consideration, but there shouldn't be too much in that location to get good results. This was my first ever shot with my current setup, just down the road from my house at our little beach. My community is small so it's not like it's a big city, but there is still a lot of light pollution from this location: First Milky Way by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  6. Hi Jenny I'm not familiar with your camera at all. Does it have interchangeable lenses and full manual mode? What you want is: a wide fast lens (Rokinon 14mm f2.8 is the gold standard, but Sigma and Tokina make good ones too). Manual focusing is a MUST. there simply is not enough light for autofocus to work, unless you have many hours to kill and you're able to go before dusk, lock your focus, and start shooting when the Milky Way rises. Next tip: use high ISO. If you aren't tracking the sky, then I suggest an ISO of 3200 or more, but also done to your taste. For me, I like ISO1600 and it's results, but I track the sky. Tip 3: rule of 500/ rule of 360ish. That is, if your camera is a full frame, divide 500 by your focal length and that gives you an acceptable exposure just before the point where stars begin to show movement. If you have a 14mm on a full frame, that would be about 35s. If your camera is a crop frame, you want a shorter exposure time. If I'm not tracking the sky I have to keep my exposure at 25s or less with my 14mm to avoid star trailing. The smaller the sensor, the shorter and shorter this time gets. Tip 4: shoot 10-15 images at a higher ISO and faster shutter speed (ISO 6400 is a good starting place with 10-15s exposure) without adjusting or moving anything and then stack them in Starry Landscape Stacker or manually in AP. This helps give you a much better signal to noise ratio, so your images look clearer. Tip 5: use a cable release and a self timer. My Pentax comes with a mirror lock up function with the 2s timer, so I use the 2s timer and cable release. If I don't the mirror slapping up can introduce some shake. If you have a mirrorless, this point is moot other than the need to use a trigger release. Tip # 6: don't give up!!! Keep going out and shooting. Find what works for your gear. Once you understand the basics you can tweak until you get the results you want. Below are two images taken nearly 2 years apart. First is the image I had in my minds eye and the one I wanted to capture for the story behind it. Second is the very first attempt I made at capturing that vision, which fell so short of the goal, but I didn't give up. Beacon- Amphritite Lighthouse by Greg Murray, on Flickr NightAmphritite by Greg Murray, on Flickr I use tracking now for all of my images which is a method to freeze the motion of the stars so I can use longer exposures than the rule of 500/360ish.
  7. Hi Tschens: I shoot with a Pentax k3II which, among other neat tech advancements, has a built in GPS unit. Not so special as Canon and Nikon also have options with GPS, but Pentax is special. Because Pentax has developed and advanced their in-body shake reduction system so much, the decided to take that techonology, along with the GPS data, and come out with a camera whose sensor can track the motion of the stars for up to 5 minutes using data from the GPS. With my 14mm lens, I am able to track the stars for about 3 minutes. (i've done 3, but if the GPS is out a little or has interference, then 2m:40s is perfect). The settings for the sky were: 2x140s tracked, ISO1600, F4.5 14mm. No need for separate exposures for Milky Way VS. other stars. General rule of thumb is to use the widest aperture you can, but because I can expose for so long, I stop my lens down some to reduce CA and other distortions. If I were you, I'd try shooting: 10-15 frames of 15s (turn off noise reduction!), ISO 6400 14mm f2.8 (or comparable) and stack them in Starry Landscape Stacker, or manually in Affinity Photo. It'd be nice if Serif would develop more features for Astrophotography purposes; I find the stacking to be quite slow and a huge resource hog compared to other stand alone stacking software; I can stack 10s-100s of images in other programs but AP simply freezes beyond 11-12. My machine has a role to play in that, but still, other programs are far more efficient (Starry Landscape Stacker, Starry Sky Stacker, Nebulosity, PixInsight etc.)
  8. Thanks gents Love this type of photography. I plan to spend more time on Milky Way next season and as the season comes to end, shift my focus to deeper space when more deep space objects are in view (M42, M31, M32 higher in the sky etc)
  9. Here is my most recent Milky Way image. I missed the alignment of the milky way with the path by about a month and a half so to make it really work, I had to flip the path horizontally. For all my milky way images, I use the in-camera astrotracking that my Pentax K3II is equipped with (that is, the sensor moves with the rotation of the earth, to freeze the motion of the stars). So, I had to take 3 images. 2 for the sky for a bit of a panorama and one for the foreground, untracked, to maintain detail and avoid motion blurring. No added light, just a long exposure time (160-180s) MilkyPathFinal by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  10. Haha, well, there were around 500 dancers in the circle at the time, so undoubtedly you could see many faces. only 4 or 5 though ever appeared to be sharp and that's because the centre group with the flags were standing mostly stationary while the others danced around them as they entered the circle. Using 1/8s shutter speed at 100mm will do that without any stacking involved.
  11. Thank you Jer It is an awe-inspiring sight to witness. All the colours everywhere, but what the image fails to capture is the deep pounding of the drum.
  12. There are two if you look close I also have this one: I wanted to try this with a different set of images I had taken, but it really did not work the way I had intended, so I tried it on this one. While not exactly what I was after, I do like it and it has given me another idea to try in the future. Spirits Of Our Ancestors by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  13. A stack of 16 longer shutter speeds (1/4 of a second or so) taken of the Kamloops Powwow final Grand Entry yesterday. Cropped the top off as it was unneeded space in the concept. Wanted to catch the wonderful colours of grand entry as I had never seen them before. GrandEntry2017Stack by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  14. No magnification in terms of how you'd usually think of a telescope. It's behaving as a straight up 418mm lens at this point, mounted directly to the camera. Not sure I understand the wording in your second question. I use a proper astronomy tracking mount to negate the earths rotation, and it doesn't matter where you are on the earth, all stars will rotate at the same speed, if there is any difference, it's negligible.
  15. Andromeda M31 shot with Pentax K3II and William Optics ZS 71ED APO 20th Anniv. edition. Stacked in Beta of Starry Sky Stacker finished in Affinity Photo and Lightroom. Made from 11 images x 3 minute exposures, ISO1600, f5.9, 418mm GREG6874-compositewhite by Greg Murray, on Flickr