GMPhotography

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About GMPhotography

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  • Birthday April 5

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    https://www.flickr.com/photos/gmphotography32/

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    Kamloops, B.C. Canada

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  1. A little early but not sure if I'll get out to do anymore photo's this year. If I do and I like it a lot, I'll add a 'bakers dozen' to this collection. Here are 12 of my favourite images of this year. Story behind a few: the NASA bubble image isn't obviously mine, but I added it because of the sheer amount of experience gained from editing their raw data into the final image; something I was unsure I could even accomplish. The image of the stone fence and leaves was added because I accomplished the task of converting an old K10D to full spectrum, myself Also learned a lot with that project. Finally, the photo's of the girls; I finally feel I am getting to a point where I can photograph them and do it well enough to do justice to their beauty and cuteness. The rest are favourites for various reasons, if you're curious just ask. 2017DozenFaves by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  2. Here is another practice edit of some more Hubble telescope data. Learning! Affinity Photo handles this type of work supremely well! Very similar edit to my post about the Bubble Nebula except this time the Hubble team imaged Ha (Green), SII (Red) and OIII (Blue) instead of Ha, NII, and OIII as in the Bubble Nebula. It was also more difficult to get looking like their edit, and required me adding a layer of Blue Ha, selectively erasing it and lowering it's opacity, as well as adding a layer of green SII. I used FITS liberator to stretch and convert the FITS data to .tiff for each of the three filter tpes (2 times for each, one strong stretch to bring out faint details, one weak stretch to keep highlight details) edited the 2 sets individually, brought them together and used the blend range tool to blend the two. Selective denoise, and a little more colour work in LR. EagleMyEdit by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  3. Thanks folks! I really can't take credit for the photo, just the edit. BTW, I did get it looking a lot more like the NASA/Hubble Heritage folks did. Done by adding a layer of Hydrogen Alpha coloured blue. My brother and I think that they did this because the Ha is glowing at different temperatures inside the cloud. I have to say, Affinity Photo handles these edits wonderfully. BubbleFinal by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  4. Thanks Wetterhoun
  5. So I found a free program developed by the ESA (European Space Agency) called FITS Liberator. It basically reads and stretches FITS data and saves it as .tiff files. I've also found some open source images from NASA's Hubble Telescope where they allow you to download their .fits files on some targets for education and experimentation purposes. I've been wanting to know how Affinity Photo would handle an edit like this because one day, I'd like to purchase my own astroimaging camera that can capture narrow band emissions, and so far I am liking the results. I do not however come close to the skill that went into the finished NASA image though so I have a lot of work to get to that point. The Images here for reference were taken in Hydrogen alpha (Ha), NII and OIII What was done: Bubble Nebula 3 sets of .fits data brought into FITS Liberator, stretched and saved as .tiff 2x (one minimal stretch to preserve highlights, one stronger stretch to bring out more nebulousness). I then brought these 6 into AP. I brought the 3 minimal stretches into their own window and the 3 stronger stretches into another window. I performed the following edits on each set individually: Selected all three layers, straightened them,and cropped the excess off. As they were all grayscale, I converted them to 16 bit RGB so I could manipulate the layers and create a Hubble false colour image. I then selected each layer individually and mapped it to a specific colour. This is done in the channels tab at the bottom underneath layers. You select the layer you want, scroll down to the bottom where it says: Pixel Red, Pixel Green, Pixel Blue, Pixel Alpha. To isolate a specific colour, you right click on which ones you don't want and press "clear". For example, for Hydrogen alpha I cleared pixel red and pixel blue, turning the layer green. For NII I cleared pixels green and blue, turning this layer red and for OIII I cleared pixels green and red, turning this layer blue. I then selected all three, went to the blend options and selected negation. Once this was done for both sets of the 3 images, I flattened them and copied the stronger stretched version and pasted it into the minimal stretched version. I then made sure they were aligned and used the Blend ranges tool to blend and restore the highlights. This kept the surrounding nebulosity visible but made sure the centre wasn't too white. I then flattened the image again and did some contrast/shadow adjustments, curves adjustment, clarity adjustment, and a tiny white balance adjustment. Flattened it again and exported out as a tiff and into LR for some more minor adjustments and storage. All this work, and I fell spectacularly short of the NASA edit, so I have a lot of learning yet to do. I've combined the source images, my finished edit and NASA's finished edit into one image for reference. Same data, so I should be able to get it close to NASA's version with more practice. I do have a feature request for AP to incorporate .fits files into their fold. BubbleNebulaHubbleData by Greg Murray, on Flickr BubbleLessonPoster by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  6. Here's two recent images i've done in AP from data i captured a week ago. OrionZS71 by Greg Murray, on Flickr FlameHorsehead by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  7. It would be nice to have .fits file handling for astrophotography.
  8. thank you Alfred
  9. Here are some of my fall exploits. Consist of Panoramas and impressions. LilahFallImpression by Greg Murray, on Flickr GREG8047-Pano by Greg Murray, on Flickr McDiramidPano45mm by Greg Murray, on Flickr FallTreesFenceFixed-Edit-2 by Greg Murray, on Flickr FallAbstract by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  10. so cool! Good work!
  11. Like GarryP said, nicely done. I like the drama you've created in each shot.
  12. PS: light pollution is a consideration, but there shouldn't be too much in that location to get good results. This was my first ever shot with my current setup, just down the road from my house at our little beach. My community is small so it's not like it's a big city, but there is still a lot of light pollution from this location: First Milky Way by Greg Murray, on Flickr
  13. Hi Jenny I'm not familiar with your camera at all. Does it have interchangeable lenses and full manual mode? What you want is: a wide fast lens (Rokinon 14mm f2.8 is the gold standard, but Sigma and Tokina make good ones too). Manual focusing is a MUST. there simply is not enough light for autofocus to work, unless you have many hours to kill and you're able to go before dusk, lock your focus, and start shooting when the Milky Way rises. Next tip: use high ISO. If you aren't tracking the sky, then I suggest an ISO of 3200 or more, but also done to your taste. For me, I like ISO1600 and it's results, but I track the sky. Tip 3: rule of 500/ rule of 360ish. That is, if your camera is a full frame, divide 500 by your focal length and that gives you an acceptable exposure just before the point where stars begin to show movement. If you have a 14mm on a full frame, that would be about 35s. If your camera is a crop frame, you want a shorter exposure time. If I'm not tracking the sky I have to keep my exposure at 25s or less with my 14mm to avoid star trailing. The smaller the sensor, the shorter and shorter this time gets. Tip 4: shoot 10-15 images at a higher ISO and faster shutter speed (ISO 6400 is a good starting place with 10-15s exposure) without adjusting or moving anything and then stack them in Starry Landscape Stacker or manually in AP. This helps give you a much better signal to noise ratio, so your images look clearer. Tip 5: use a cable release and a self timer. My Pentax comes with a mirror lock up function with the 2s timer, so I use the 2s timer and cable release. If I don't the mirror slapping up can introduce some shake. If you have a mirrorless, this point is moot other than the need to use a trigger release. Tip # 6: don't give up!!! Keep going out and shooting. Find what works for your gear. Once you understand the basics you can tweak until you get the results you want. Below are two images taken nearly 2 years apart. First is the image I had in my minds eye and the one I wanted to capture for the story behind it. Second is the very first attempt I made at capturing that vision, which fell so short of the goal, but I didn't give up. Beacon- Amphritite Lighthouse by Greg Murray, on Flickr NightAmphritite by Greg Murray, on Flickr I use tracking now for all of my images which is a method to freeze the motion of the stars so I can use longer exposures than the rule of 500/360ish.
  14. Hi Tschens: I shoot with a Pentax k3II which, among other neat tech advancements, has a built in GPS unit. Not so special as Canon and Nikon also have options with GPS, but Pentax is special. Because Pentax has developed and advanced their in-body shake reduction system so much, the decided to take that techonology, along with the GPS data, and come out with a camera whose sensor can track the motion of the stars for up to 5 minutes using data from the GPS. With my 14mm lens, I am able to track the stars for about 3 minutes. (i've done 3, but if the GPS is out a little or has interference, then 2m:40s is perfect). The settings for the sky were: 2x140s tracked, ISO1600, F4.5 14mm. No need for separate exposures for Milky Way VS. other stars. General rule of thumb is to use the widest aperture you can, but because I can expose for so long, I stop my lens down some to reduce CA and other distortions. If I were you, I'd try shooting: 10-15 frames of 15s (turn off noise reduction!), ISO 6400 14mm f2.8 (or comparable) and stack them in Starry Landscape Stacker, or manually in Affinity Photo. It'd be nice if Serif would develop more features for Astrophotography purposes; I find the stacking to be quite slow and a huge resource hog compared to other stand alone stacking software; I can stack 10s-100s of images in other programs but AP simply freezes beyond 11-12. My machine has a role to play in that, but still, other programs are far more efficient (Starry Landscape Stacker, Starry Sky Stacker, Nebulosity, PixInsight etc.)
  15. Thanks gents Love this type of photography. I plan to spend more time on Milky Way next season and as the season comes to end, shift my focus to deeper space when more deep space objects are in view (M42, M31, M32 higher in the sky etc)