crabtrem

Something else you may consider. I went into the develop persona, used the overlay brush mask to mark out the shadow area, and used the basic adjustments.

I'm not expert on this. But just a few seconds, only using the lightness channel in a curves adjustment, under LAB mode, selecting the shadow areas. It may be a good starting point.

Got the images placed backwards in the post.

I am no expert, but I believe it is true that the crop tool in Affinity Photo will not go beyond the canvas size. But I did attach two examples where I started with a document print size, placed by image within that, and then set a custom ratio in the crop tool and set it outside the limits of the original photo. The next example is using the resize canvas function, and then using the crop tool with a custom ratio setting.

I have included a short video showing the crop tool with custom ratio set. I set a ratio of 11x14. So now I get a grid that always maintains that aspect ratio.

If you use absolute dimensions, you are still able to manipulate the size (in case you change your mind). If you go into a ratio mode, you can change the size, but the ratio between sides always remains the same.

Have you thought about switching to LAB, selecting the area you want to highlight, use curves to raise the luminosity settings?

Forgive me, but I'm not following the problem. You set your crop size to absolute value, put in your pixel dimensions on the crop tool context menu, and you get a grid of that size that you move. And then apply when ready. Granted the resize handles are still available to allow you to change your mind without starting over. But if you have set your dimensions, I cannot understand why are you resizing the dimensions if you don't want it to change? Or why is it a problem. If you are happy with those absolute dimensions, don't adjust them. Unless you are talking about something else?

On your studio display (right side). At the bottom, you will see a tab marked transform. That panel will give you position, shape, and aspect data on your selected object.

I'm sorry. I have never had any similar problem, so can not speak to it. I will defer to RcR.

Just to be sure, I made this quick video. The crop tool in Affinity Photo is the third tool from the top on the tools panel. Once you select crop, the crop grid comes up. The default mode is unconstrained. As can be seen on the context bar at the top left area. I switch this to the 1:1 ratio mode and the grid changes. I can move and resize this. Once I get the crop I desire, I apply it. This is not to be confused with the perspective tool and the mesh tools on the lower left side.

It almost sounds like you are wanting to use the Crop Tool and not the Perspective tool. But it is difficult to say without an example of what you are trying to do?

I know. I forgot all about Erase White Paper until you mentioned it on another post. And it is the first thing I thought of when I came across this thread. But I knew I had dealt with raster to mask, and even though powerful, can be confusing (talking about myself for sure). So it was a great exercise. But, yeah. When you talked about the erase white paper, that was like a long lost memory coming back. Really awesome.

So true. What I did was try and just answer the question, while implying that there are other methods. But the question was specific enough, that I wanted to go through those steps as my response. Plus I find it helpful, for myself to run through everything I could think of using the raster to mask option. Had I not, I might be babbling on forever. And that is never a good thing.

Like I said. If you haven't used the File-Edit in ........ option yet. You should. I am in it all the time. Jumping back and forth between Photo and Designer, never losing a step. Good luck.

I'm definitely no expert. So forgive me if I misunderstand your problem. I believe for the guides to be drawn, you have to start from the opposite ruler. Starting anywhere else will (if in the move tool) start a selection box. Hopefully. On the chance I understood your issue, this should solve it. If not, I apologize in advance.

That is fast. So it looks like you just want to stay in the Affinity Designer Pencil tool, keep your shortcut keys handy, check the use fill box most of the time.

Forgive me if I don't understand the situation or problem. I thought the problem was that the viewed level of noise that was apparently added to a file, did not seem to match the exported output. So when I tested this, this did seem to be the case. But when applying the Add Noise Filter from the Filter menu, and applying the NOISE level would appear to have reduced drastically upon application. So I tested the Live filter with what I thought would be the equivalent, and that was to FLATTEN the file. And there was a noticeable change between the apparent noise level applied and the resulting FLATTENED file. I thought this was the description of the original problem, the noise levels of what appeared on screen as being applied did not match to the export version. Which in my case also equates to the applied portion via the FILTER menu, or the FLATTEN file version for the LIVE Filter. Then I noticed that when tested on files with a lower pixel resolution, I only tested those around .6 mp. That there seemed to be no change from the displayed noise added and the export version (to include flattened, and destructive noise filter applied. So I thought this to be a significant factor towards identifying the problem introduced. I do not think the zoom level matters. I didn't think the problem was that noise wasn't being added, but that it did not match the displayed value from the export version. Forgive me for apparently misunderstanding the problem at hand. I did not intend to further confuse the situation. Sorry.

I am really no expert on this. But here is my opinion, for better or worse. Is it possible in Affinity Designer, yes. I think I would prefer in this case to start in Affinity Photo and then just continue editing in Designer. Plus there are other options in Photo that are available to you and might give you better results. From your example, I'm going to guess you have it all down. So forgive me if I go over something you may consider routine. I am including a video showing the steps I took, focusing on your specific requirements (I believe). Assuming I understand you requirements in the first place. Forgive the poor video, hopefully you can follow it clearly. The main thing that got me with rasterize to mask, is that you really need to remember to have a color for the overlay, and a color for the base layer set. In designer to invert your selection you have to add an adjustment, and you need to do that at the beginning from what I can tell. There may be easier ways in Designer to do this, but I couldn't figure them out. Good luck.

I have discovered something interesting. I will show that the pixel dimension, or the file resolution appears to have a direct relationship to the NOISE applied via the ADD NOISE filter. The video I have attached is an abridged version, but the results seem consistent. The larger size files when NOISE is added look fine until exported, or in this case FLATTENING the file gives the same results. Testing files with smaller dimensions, the NOISE did not lose any of its granularity. I resized the larger size file into one about the same dimension as the smaller test, added NOISE, FLATTENED the file and showed the NOISE lost no granularity. It seems like the file's dimensions has a direct correlation on the appearance of the ADD NOISE FILTER when exported.

I'm no expert. But, in my opinion. I am assuming you are using Affinity Photo. I would suggest going to the Document-Transparent Background, and unchecking that option. Seems like the easiest method to get all to match. Unless you want a transparent background that is?

I would like to thank you all very much. Those really nice comments are humbling indeed. But the learning process here has been really fun. Thanks again.

Have you tried the Arrange button (options) at the top tool bar, near the center? I didn't get the impression you did, so I thought I would ask? And I am wondering if that would solve your problem. At least the alignment problem. I am no expert, but I didn't find any way to convert artistic text into frame text, other than what you had mentioned.

So I took an old image. I went to the Document Setup, accessed either at the File menu or on the Context Menu bar with the Move Tool. I went to the bleed tab and added a 1 inch bleed. I exported to a PDF (print ready) made sure to go to More options, and check off the include Bleed option. This first export you can see that the Bleed shows up as a white border. I then went back as resized my rectangle I used for a background, to extend over the bleed. And here is the result. So it looks like the Bleed works to me, and can be adjusted to whatever file you bring in. The only output I saw include bleed was PDF, but I did not check all.

Comparing notes. I believe the problem has to be in the Noise Filter, because the destructive version will do the same thing. If you take the Live Noise filter and Flatten the file, most of the noise will be taken out, but matches what your export version is. The same for the Menu-Filter-Noise-Add Noise filter, apply the Filter and most of the noise goes away. The quick workaround is that you can add noise cumulatively. Add the destructive noise, apply and repeat until you get the desired effect. This should work until Affinity can isolate and fix the issue. I would recommend reporting this in the bug section. Good catch.