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  1. Here's an example: Those leaves should have a green, transparent color and not black. Shouldn't Affinity use it's "inpainting" (horrible name, btw 🙈) algorithm to try to find the proper colors?
  2. 1. Use the node tool 2. Select some nodes 3. Open the Select menu Result: Menu option says "invert pixel selection". Expected: Menu option should say "invert node selection". Bonus bug: You can't copy said nodes and paste them as a new object (you'll get the entire object instead).
  3. 1. Create an Affinity Design document 2. Draw something in it 3. Add some guide lines 4. Add an art-board that's smaller than the document size Result: Guide lines not only move, but if they end up outside of the art-board, they become un-selectable. Expected: Since all curves stay in place, guidelines should also stay in place. If they end up outside the one and only artboard, they should disappear or remain selectable.
  4. Thank you for the detailed explanation! I will experiment with this.
  5. For some quick and dirty photo matching 3D renders, I just bash a background photo onto a equirectangular layout and save it out as a HDR. This enables me to import it into a 3D application and use it for fake environmental lighting and reflections. However, sometimes the lighting comes out really flat, even though it's quite a high contrast photo. The reason is of course that the RGB colors in the photo doesn't have any values that extend in the HDR range. Is there a way to fake this? Is there a way to boost RGB colors into the HDR range in Affinity Photo? I tried with Gamma & Exposure in the 32-bit preview panel, but that's just a preview, isn't it?
  6. There's a good solution provided here, but it only appears when you select the Move tool. Two UX improvements would be: 1. Add a "lock transform" to the context menu of each child. 2. Add a small symbol to the layers panel on each child to show that they are locked.
  7. I just tried the cryptomatte output of Blender 3.1 with Affinity. Does not seem to be working very well... but I might be messing up a step or two (it doesn't work out of the box at any rate).
  8. It's still not enabled by default in 2022 and I checked both Mac and Windows versions. My wife refuses to move from our old Adobe CS6 license partially because of this, which was the first issue she encountered and I had to come to the forum here to look up the answer. Ridiculously, rotating through the drop down menus only rotates the image by 30 degree increments (no idea why that would be useful). Also kind of silly that those buttons are only available in develop mode (I initially looked in the regular mode's customize options and got confused when I didn't see them).
  9. This still happens quite often! Here is the bug (which in this instance did manage to draw over itself): And then when you restart:
  10. I just want to be able to do this in the perspective tool as well... https://imgur.com/fUF4EAe
  11. The only thing I'm interested in is how to retrieve the lost information in the blown highlights of the RAW file in Affinity Photo without darkening the rest of the picture.
  12. Ok, I uploaded it. It's a DNG from a Leica TL2 and I used the Windows version of Affinity Photo (from the Microsoft Store).
  13. Left is jpg out of the camera, right is a developed raw in Affinity Photo: Look at how blown the highlights are in the raw and how crunchy the color transitions are. I see a lot of people asking about whitepoint, and the answer is to use exposure and levels, but I can't get it to work. Why can't I get close to the jpg quality using raw? I fired up Photoshop CS6 and the difference with just dragging the whitepoint is remarkable, but then again, the colors in everything else are quite atrocious, haha:
  14. The holding down Alt key to preview white and black points is neat, but there's zero hints about that in the UI itself, which results in this: There were even more threads when I searched, so I hope Affinity can make their UI about this more intuitive in the future...
  15. This is super cool, but I do not exactly understand how to use it on my scan result, and tutorials seem hard to come by... Here's a 100% crop of my original image: The best I've been able to get is this, but it introduces noise where there previously basically was none: And then I have to use a gaussian blur to get rid of the final pattern... am I supposed to be able to do this in one go, or how does it work in my case? I'm also confused on how this file, which is similar but which has a predominantly different halftone raster, can have such a similar pattern in that popup window...
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