affinity photo Greyscale and colour profiles

[Ldina]

@itsRachel There are a few factors to consider when scanning. Size, Resolution, bit depth and color space.

If you scan a 2 X 3 inch image at 300 dpi, the pixel dimensions will be 600 X 900 pixels (i.e., 2 X 300 and 3 X 300, respectively). That's fine if you want to print your final image to a dimension of 2X3 inches. But, if you plan to print it to a dimension of 8 X 12 inches, you will have to spread those pixels out over a larger area. In that case you would have a resolution of only 75 pixels per inch, (same number of pixels, 600 X 900, but blown up larger and very noticeable to the eye). So when scanning, think of your final print size. If you know you will print 8X12, multiply each dimension by 300 dpi to get a desired resolution of 2400 x 3600 pixels. It's simple math.

16 bit is best for high quality and smooth transitions. After editing the file, you can reduce it to 8 bits if desired, to reduce the final file size.

Color Space...I almost always scan as RGB. This gives me the most flexibility and control. If I wish, I can always convert to grayscale later. Some inkjet printers have a B&W printing mode. If your printer does better printing B&W using that mode and prefers grayscale images, you can always convert your RGB file to grayscale and save it as a copy (keep your RGB original in case you need it again.) Your printer and image file need to "speak the same language". If your printer expects to receive sRGB data, then it is best to save your image as sRGB. Printing can get fairly involved if you want the best possible results. 

 

[Ldina]

...and as Alfred mentioned, 300 dpi is not necessarily required, especially for inkjet printing. I have gotten very good inkjet prints at just 200 dpi and even as low as 150 dpi (and sometimes lower, when I had low Rez originals). For output to a printing press, 300 dpi or higher is often desirable. 

[itsRachel]

33 minutes ago, Ldina said:

@itsRachel There are a few factors to consider when scanning. Size, Resolution, bit depth and color space.

If you scan a 2 X 3 inch image at 300 dpi, the pixel dimensions will be 600 X 900 pixels (i.e., 2 X 300 and 3 X 300, respectively). That's fine if you want to print your final image to a dimension of 2X3 inches. But, if you plan to print it to a dimension of 8 X 12 inches, you will have to spread those pixels out over a larger area. In that case you would have a resolution of only 75 pixels per inch, (same number of pixels, 600 X 900, but blown up larger and very noticeable to the eye). So when scanning, think of your final print size. If you know you will print 8X12, multiply each dimension by 300 dpi to get a desired resolution of 2400 x 3600 pixels. It's simple math.

16 bit is best for high quality and smooth transitions. After editing the file, you can reduce it to 8 bits if desired, to reduce the final file size.

Color Space...I almost always scan as RGB. This gives me the most flexibility and control. If I wish, I can always convert to grayscale later. Some inkjet printers have a B&W printing mode. If your printer does better printing B&W using that mode and prefers grayscale images, you can always convert your RGB file to grayscale and save it as a copy (keep your RGB original in case you need it again.) Your printer and image file need to "speak the same language". If your printer expects to receive sRGB data, then it is best to save your image as sRGB. Printing can get fairly involved if you want the best possible results. 

 

Noted (literally, I'm sitting here with a note pad!) There is a big difference when I scan colour/black and white and grayscale (now I have discovered the setting on the scanner). Black and white is literally black and white, grayscale is washed out and colour has more depth, so I can see why that would be preferable

[itsRachel]

44 minutes ago, Alfred said:

300 dpi is standard for colour printing, but that only applies if you’re outputting at the same size. In this case you want an enlarged image, so the effective resolution drops accordingly.

Although 300 dpi is commonly recommended for same-size output, you might want to go higher for things like maps that could be examined at very close quarters or with a magnifying glass. At the other end of the scale, roadside banners are often printed at 75 dpi or less, since no one is ever going to view them at close range.

Thanks Alfred

[wim]

I have a question; 

For me the layers are above the photo, not below.  Does this matter?  I'm puzzling over how this was done.  I think it would be fun to do it myself.  Can't find the right steps to do this anywhere. 

Thank you very much in advance for your answer. 

Kind regards, Wim

[Ldina]

@wim Hi Wim. Adjustment Layers and Live Filter Layers, like Pixel and Image Layers, appear in a "stack" in the Layers Panel. How Adjustment Layers, Live Filter Layers and Masks are arranged in the layer stack depends on how you have set things up n the Assistant Settings (little icon in the toolbar that looks like a TV or a Robot...see attached screenshot).

You can add an adjustment layer or live filter as a "child layer" and it will ONLY affect the Layer or Group that it is clipped inside of. As you can see in the screenshot, I have my Assistant settings to Add filters and adjustments "as a new layer". This places them above the currently selected layer when they are initially created. That's just my preference. You can change that at any time, depending on your preference. Adjustments and Live Filters that are NOT child layers (i..e., not clipped inside a layer) will affect everything beneath them in the layer stack. Sometimes, that's what I want, and at others, it is not.

You can drag and drop these adjustment layers and live filter layers up and down the stack, make them child layers to a given Layer or Group, back and forth, etc. So, it's pretty flexible. I'm sure there are tutorials on this, plus some information in the Help. Check the Tutorials forum on this website. 

[wim]

Hello Ldina,

Thank you very much for the explanation, I will try it with your explanation next to it. 

Have a nice day, Wim

[Ldina]

@wim Wim, Check out this video...

 

[wim]

Thanks for the videos, I still have a lot of practice to do.  I am Dutch and over 80 years old, my English is not good.  I asked Serif for help in Dutch without success.

[Ldina]

@wim Google Translate (or other translators) may be helpful.