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  1. I put a separate light on the green screen today and tried some more tests. The green did remove much easier with the flood select tool, but the amount of fringing along the edges of the sample increased, as well as the amount of green within the sample. I tried using the defringe filter and selected the fringe color (mainly white), but couldn't get it to remove. Not sure what else I could try to defringe. I read a tip about using the "minimum filter" which I tried in various amounts, but it took away too much of the object as well. I also tried a highlights only burn along the edges, but this still ended up darkening the remaining edge too much. Now this is just my opinion, but whoever said green screening was the way, at least for digital imagery, may have been wrong. I have had nothing but issues tackling imaging this way, as opposed to video where I had little, if any, issues. Therefore, I usually avoid imaging this way, but recently I have had time to try experimenting with the technique, and to try improving upon it, in the event I need to use it more in the future.
  2. Thanks, but I already tried both of those (selection brush and sampled color). Although sampled color seemed to show fastest results that was not the case as it didn't seem to get all the colors. Two applications were actually needed to finally achieve a good result. Just takes too much time. The selection brush gives the best results but takes a lot of time. I guess for now I will continue using the brush. Too bad there's not a chroma key or similar built in for such tasks. Using such a keyer for video makes an hour job a 2 minute one.
  3. I've been using (or attempting to use) AP to remove the background green screen from several objects I photographed. I used plenty of lighting and the screen appeared as uniform as possible. However, AP doesn't seem to be able to completely eliminate the screen and I find myself taking a lot of time trying to remove all the green. I've used several of the selection tools. I thought at first the best one might have been to select sample color (green) and then remove, but I found that a much fainter green remained and this caused fringing around the object. So far, the best method I've found is to use the freehand tool and carefully trace around the object, then refine, but this takes a lot of time. When I used to work with video programs, they had screen keyers and it was basically a one shot deal with threshold manipulation and I could extract the object with excellent results in a couple of minutes... with AP, this is taking me an hour or more for the best selection. Any advice would be welcomed! Although I can get the results I want, it is taking a lot of time and I don't think it should. Thanks in advance.
  4. Sorry, was going to delete post as I fixed it. Somehow, I had the settings outputting 32 bit instead of 16. Thanks.
  5. I used AP earlier today to make an HDR from several images on the camera card. Now it wants to open all afphoto as HDR and of course this isn't wanted as it completely changes contrast of all my composites saved in Affinity native format. How to remedy? Thanks in advance. I am on WIn 10.
  6. Thanks, guys. I got around it by warping. AP didn't like that and eventually crashed, but got the job done.
  7. I'm trying to make a series of concentric rings with an oval shape relating to the size of the original oval that is approximately 5000px. I could do this I suppose by warping the dual brush I had planned on using, but this is going to be a lot more work. I could also resample the original image down to the max of the brush, but I didn't really want to do that.
  8. Couldn't find anything in help about this, but I need a brush size larger than 4096. Thank you!
  9. I just wanted to update that making a flattened copy of the layers and placing it on top of the layers, and then doing "web safe dither" to the 16 bit document before exporting to jpg seems to have gotten rid of about 90% or more of the banding/ posterization. I tried it both ways... just to the offending jpg itself and than back in the original 16 bit files. If I do just the jpeg, it leaves it too noisy, but I don't see such noise in 16 bit. Hope this helps anyone else out too.
  10. I've recently begun digital painting in 16 bit mode RGB. However, although my main monitors can't see it, I am ending up with horrible banding on either of my laptops or if posting online. I convert to jpg with highest quality settings. This is a definite stumbling block to my work and I would appreciate suggestions as to how to eliminate asap. I found a tutorial here, but it doesn't appear that AP has any such filter mentioned (spatter filter). Thank you!
  11. Ok, thanks, all, looks like I got it. The issues I still see here are 1) the awkwardness of getting this to work compared with how PS used to do it; 2) I still can't see how the mask itself is being changed by the curves, etc; and 3) I see no way to do things like gaussian blur or sharpening directly to the mask. I can sharpen or blur the layer affected by the mask, but not the mask itself. I guess this is still usable, but hoped it'd be a lot simpler. I still put a request in for them to change it to the way PS does it. Thanks again for all the help.
  12. Attaching a quick screen capture video of what's happening. The last thing I do is select the mask after curves and you can see that the mask was not changed. maskattempt.mp4
  13. I can maybe try, but probably not until tomorrow. I followed the video precisely, making sure the masks and adjustments were where they were supposed to be.
  14. I tried that and I believe nothing at all. I may be able to confirm later today, but none of the adjustment layers I tried would allow mask manipulation.

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