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Eric5

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  1. You're welcome, Chris. I hadn't tried the "simplified version" method (using a new doc from scratch), but I was able to cause the same crash as long as the doc was large enough to start with (roughly equivalent to the 12 MB DNG RAW I had been using). Smaller docs wouldn't crash and converted.
  2. Attached. Something I wanted to add: I decided to try adding about 5 adjustment layers and then converting. Did not crash. I then did a copy merged of all layers and pasted the merged result on top of the layers below. Converted and no crash. However, if I just opened a 32 bit DNG, duplicated it, and then either did some cloning, healing, or painting on the duplicated layer and then tried to convert to 16 bit, the program would crash. So the crashes appear to be tools related and not all tools. I tried doing a gradient on a duplicated layer and then color converted with no crash. All the attached reports are from using either a combination of layers and tools on the top layer, or simply duplicating one layer and then doing cloning, healing, or painting on the top duplicated layer. 886ce6f1-088e-4538-a114-9195cc65a5cb.dmp ceeea8aa-f33f-4da6-baf8-bfb2e6cf5009.dmp cab40e31-7ace-4f61-b39d-cd262fc0cbb6.dmp fe8b08b7-857f-48f0-b8cc-f90124172dd7.dmp
  3. I was just researching this myself and came across this thread. I ditched all Photoshop stuff six months ago. Although I seldom ever used Lightroom (I don't take enough photos), it did come in handy once or twice for some huge astronomical panoramas I created (mainly just for quick processing of each photo, but I used the excellent MS ICE for the composite). Anyway, what about Darktable? Never used it, but free and supposedly updated, also works on multiple platforms. The info I could find on it shows that it supports many Lightroom functions.
  4. Hi Chris, I was all ready to send, but found that the issue doesn't appear on already saved multilayered files, only the current fresh ones being worked on. So, I can describe what happens: 1) Open a RAW file (mine are DNG, 12 MB). Don't do anything in the RAW converter, just let it go on into Affinity but make sure it stays in 32 bit. 2) Now start adding about 5-6 layers. Just quick ones like curves, shadow/highlight, another curves, HSL, and selective color. Make sure to do something brief with each layer. Then I did a select all and copy merged and pasted that above the other layers. I did a bit of random healing with the healing brush. 3) Now, convert from the 32 to 16 bit format under Document > Convert Format/ ICC Profile. This is when AP crashes.
  5. Immediate crash, latest beta while trying to convert multilayered RGB/32 (HDR) to RGB/16 under Document> Convert Format/ ICC Profile 105be6b9-ad3c-4eca-b5f3-6e3139b7f7d5.dmp
  6. Thank you. It will be a while before I acquire a similar system, but just wanted to make certain.
  7. Well, essentially I did as firstdefence first said, went back and redid all portraits this time with a surplus of lighting. That did the trick since I did not have to artificially darken any backgrounds with gradients or try cutting out my hair for any reason. I still stuck with a black backdrop, but it was lit up enough that there ended up being no issues. The lesson learned here is definitely to use more lighting and more strategically. Thanks again all for the suggestions.
  8. Thinking about upgrading from my Dell XPS 420, which seems to struggle with AP, to something like an HP Z600 12-Core Xeon X5650 Workstation, 32GB RAM. For the prices I'm seeing for a barebones desktop system ($300-$400 US), it almost seems too good to be true but... would AP easily work with it? Opinions welcome.
  9. firstdefence, thanks, but unfortunately not quite the answer I was hoping to hear. I was holding off responding to see if anyone else chimed in also before replying. I'm surprised there isn't some way to compromise for this in AP, maybe a curves adjustment or the like, or some other method because surely as I write most folks are doing editing of some type that would also be revealed as I found out with mine. Of course, maybe they're not using black backgrounds either like I did. I've run into this issue with these backgrounds, but it's cheap because I can use a close flash on the subject and end up with black background. I may have to hang a colored sheet behind me next time.
  10. First of all, I wanted to say that this isn't a specific AP issue as I also used to notice similar behavior in Photoshop. Anyway, it's quite annoying and I'm looking for a solution. Here goes: Just before the holidays, I took a series of self portraits to share on FB and others. There might have been some processing involved. For some images, for example, the lighting wasn't right and my hair almost invisible, so I'd use the clone and other tools to "transplant" my hair from not as good images onto the images I wanted to share. I carefully matched the hair to the new image, using curves, white balance, etc. On my calibrated monitor within AP, the image looked good to go. However, after resizing and exporting as JPEG, I found that a quick upload to Facebook seemed to suddenly start showing my edits and my hair looked more like a wig than real. I thought this might just be compression, so saved in TIFF and uploaded, same thing. I also make sure and work only with sRGB throughout the entire workflow. It's as if the blacks in the image are lifted and also some sort of contrast is applied either when viewing in Facebook or even in certain apps outside of AP. I used to have similar issues with Photoshop, so I think it has something to do with some sort of profile Facebook and others are using. I notice this with shadows and darks more than anything else: lights and mids either aren't affected, or so little I can't notice. Is it possible to make my edits look good in the darks on any screen, not just within AP? I read in archives here and elsewhere that proper color profiles need to be in place on my browser and such, which would eliminate the problem most likely, but for the neighbor down the street who hasn't a clue about profiling, the image I just uploaded is going to look faker than crap. I've tried re-editing the offending jpegs and TIFFs, but next to impossible since AP shows it the way it should look. Any ideas on this would be welcome. It drives me crazy. If it were up to me, I'd stay away from black backgrounds and such altogether during shooting, but I have limited space and little resources, so have to stick to what I have. Thanks in advance.
  11. Since switching to warp, I haven't had any more blackouts of the screen. I still have extreme slowing and stalling to the point where I have to force closure with the task manager. Watching the task manager, the item that seems to be at fault is the CPU. It starts off at less than 10%, then certain tasks or opening of multiple files, and it climbs to over 90% and the entire system becomes sluggish. If I wait long enough, percentages will drop just enough when I can close open files or save existing work, but the wait is sometimes 15 min. Judging from the above, I'd say that the CPU is at fault and not the video card. The card might be a symptom of the hard working CPU and perhaps switching to warp simply solved the black screening. For now, I am going to have to limit how much work I do in AP. In order to keep CPU percentages lower, this won't be very much unfortunately. I am now considering a new desktop altogether if I can sell this one at a reasonable price. To my surprise, something like a 12-Core Xeon X5650 Workstation, 32GB RAM, HP Z600 even with a good video card is <$350 US. I'm sure a system like that would have no trouble with AP. However, it does cost, so I think I'm going to download the latest Photoshop and see how the task manager responds with the same sort of processes I do with AP. I just had PS on this very system until this past summer and never had issues of any sort, but I want to monitor this time to be sure. I've been told that AP uses directX or something like it whereas Photoshop uses OpenGL, and this may be the cause of many of the issues users are experiencing in AP. If PS continues to operate successfully, I may just have to get a subscription for a year before deciding on any upgrades of my system.
  12. @Gnobelix thanks for the share. The only thing is that he's doing all that on a separate layer and I want to be able to fill a mask with the noise and then manipulate it. So far, I haven't found a simple way to do it.
  13. How can I create a Perlin noise filter mask and make it adjustable? So far, the filter wants to keep creating new layer. I've tried alt clicking on an existing mask to see it then use Perlin, but still creating a separate layer. Also, is there any way to have re-adjustment of mask once created so I don't have to create a new one each time? Thanks.
  14. The only thing I can say is that I ran Furmark recently to test and the card took as much as I could throw at it without fail. I suppose I could try Speedfan or even blow a fan into the side without the cover to see if it makes any difference. I had to do just that (fan) with a poorly cooled laptop to get it to do a long term task without fail a while back.
  15. Thanks for the card recommendation. Definitely not expensive, but I am a bit confused: are you saying that it will or will not support Win 10?
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