[No tone mapping panels -- ANSWERED thank you]

Sadly yes thank you Ron  

[Help with fence removal]

I think Ron P has the better answer 

[No tone mapping panels -- ANSWERED thank you]

What have I done now ? !  This actually happen quite some time ago 

How to get the tone mapping adjustment panels open ?
The tone mapping part is being done with no dramas 

Also; I'm sure if I put the cursor on the personas icon the name showed -- that doesn't happen now or for any any tool bar icons .
Have done a reset studio 
Tab key moves the on screen image only 
cheers; thanks for reading 

 

[Dodge and burn]

5 minutes ago, Arti1 said:

Wow  thanks for the detailed instructions, I'll try it  

You're welcome  , let me know how it goes and ask if you get bogged 

[Dodge and burn]

To make a dodge and burn macro
New layer >add soft light blending layer >name dodge and burn >done . Optional >fill layer with 50% grey  . 

Option second macro
Add vibrance/saturation adjustment layer >set both sliders at 25% >invent the adjustment layer (Ctrl +I) >done . Optional >use HSL adjustment layer >set saturation to minis 25% or less (don't forget to invert) . .. To use >set white soft low opacity brush >paint where the saturation is too strong . You may need to adjust the the de-saturation setting to suit the image . 
When you have both macros working as you require you can make a third macro used the two macros above .

To add colour to an image >simple paint the dodge + burn layer with a suitable colour > Tip: to help keep things tidy you might consider added a colour dodge and burn macro to the Dodge and Burn/de-saturation  macro .
I find it easier to make several smaller macros to combine into a large macro. Making macro can be a bit harder job than should be   .

Go one step further with a "start" macro like this >Duplicate photo layer >turn off the top one >unlock other.
Options > add the dodge and burn macros ... Add 50% grey fill layer >move to bottom (Ctrl + [ ) >add contrast/brighten and white balance adjustment layer >set C+B to 100% contrast and brightness to around 30% (not important) . Now you have background layer from near black to near white and any colour you wish >you could also add colour balance a-layer .
True; not something you might use a lot, but I do so all done with one click and can be removed with one click  
My main start up macro also includes adjustment layers (as child) I use the most . Again; likely best to make an "add child adjustment layers" then add that the start macro .

So now you open the photo in affinity and click once . Now everything is ready to go with no thought or remembering to do this or that ; AND , there also an original file at the top to compare the editing progress   . Not many do/teach that!

Believe me; once macros are understood it's far easier to do than it reads the above . 
I have no acquired macros that I use



 

[Dodge and burn]

On 1/3/2022 at 6:06 AM, Arti1 said:

Hi! Please help me, I'm trying to import this file into Affinity Photo newest Windows10 version 1.10 and I get an error message that says:

The file version is not supported by this version of Affinity.

I have read several threads here and I am trying to import the proper way (I know the difference between .afmacro and .afmacros ) I've also tried to rename the macros.propcol file but doesn't help.

Could you please check it if it works (imports) for you?

Thanks: Arti1

If you cannot get the macro to work I would suggest you make a macro of the old fashion way .
Happy to explain if need be .

[Dodge and burn]

🤣 don't do it (OP) like that anymore . Have gone back to the original soft light blending layer but without 50% grey fill --- how did it take so long for everyone to find that out .
I find it easier just to hit "x" to change black to white brush and "1 to 0" to change opacity although 10% is mostly used .
To cut the vibrance in the darkened area I use vibrance/saturation inverted adjustment layer >paint with white to suit.
Can also be used to add subtle colours .
Another "dodge-burn" I use is a contrast/brightness or curves or levels adjustment layer >darken/lighten to suit >paint out (or in) the effect to suit . 
I still consider dodge and burn to be one editing tool all should perfect 

I have come to the collusion that many of the "new" ways to do an edit is often more about a youtuber trying to get more attention/likes/followers/$$ than sharing their "new way'' to get a similar result  .  Having said; some can often explain the old way better or simpler  . 


 

[Affinity photo very slow #2]

hopefully the final note --- what I apparently did not do is save my key all board shortcuts  Yeah; Bugga

[Affinity photo very slow #2]

21 hours ago, rvst said:

Curious to know what your machine specification is (RAM, CPU and what type of disk drive)....and some details of the file you're working on: resolution, bit depth, number of different layers and filters?

 

all way over my head rvst . All I know is I asked for and searched for the specs I needed; took those to Phil who added his ideas before making the computer that up to a few months ago has had no problems doing everything I needed from Affinity photos . Likely speced way over my happy snap photos needs . 
Cheers mate --- thank you for your input 

[Affinity photo very slow #2]

20 hours ago, Ron P. said:

Next time you uninstall, right after uninstalling Right-Click on the Start Menu, select Run. Then type in or copy/paste the following:

 

 

Thanks Ron, not sure I want or need to uninstall again . Have tried to do just that quite a few times over the past months 
My computer guru said we should not have to do all that after Revo uninstall . He deleted the empty folders and one took a long time to delete so he guessing that was 'the problem' . Even his Pro version of Revo wouldn't remove it 

 

[Affinity photo very slow #2]

FIXED! My computer guru said there is a bug when an uninstall is done and that bug does not, or did not  allow for a re-install as a clean slate of Affinity Photo  . But naturally the clean slate opens up so many other dramas before the app is back to the way I had it before all the **** . Brushes and macros where backed up but there is so much that now needs to be set on the fly  . 

Would be so helpful if tools and tool bars could be set, saved , and even shared like macros and brushes  
For me; much of this computer stuff is like so many driving a car ; turn wheel to go left/right ; left/right foot stops/goes ; and that flashing lights means fuel is needed . After that they have no idea what's so ever especially if something is set, done, and forgotten .

The brushing problem seems to have been fixed  with affinity running as a default window; and fixed as I have tried to do for some mouths  . But because the program would not full uninstall I was always locked into the old slow program . Even Phil had problems doing a full uninstall and he still does not understand the how and why of it . 

If it wasn't such a good program I would likely not have bothered for this long . Fortunately my AP uses are not about work $$ 
Tomorrow is other day

[Affinity photo very slow #2]

UPDATE : uninstalled fully using Revo uninstaller and Win 10 uninstall because the apps was still there (???)
Deleted all down loads of the app.
Downloaded again -- was expecting to have a clean slate version of Affinity Photo but that didn't happen (??)
Brush still not working as it used to 
Frustrated me really needs a fix --- might try the rum bottle even though that never has worked 
 

[Affinity photo very slow #2]

Latest version -- Ap only (not designer) -- Win10 -- photo spec custom built Pc
I have been having problems with Ap not working as it used to. I feel , but cannot be certain the slowness started after the last big upgrade.
 
Today; I did an advanced uninstall with Revo however Ap was still usable . Took the Win10 PC to the computer repairer who built the heavy photo spec machine for me about 18 months ago  . He told me it was very unusual for Revo to leave anything behind.
He was able to remove AP so I could start again from a new download however; I didn't try to open Ap again before downloaded Affinity Photo from the serif.com site
Was told AP was already install (??) . 
Opened Ap and everything was still there including the files in "open recent" , brushes /  library (??)

Naturally; the problems are still there --- the main one being the brush tool not keeping up with the curser when used on a mask, or layers based dodge and burn. Doesn't seem to be any problems using the programmed based burn tool at 100% opacity .

There doesn't seem to be any problems with other Apps like Lightroom 5 

So what is happening? How to fix?
In the mean time I will do another uninstall including old downloads .

Final question; were do I find my affinity licence numbers ?

Cheers and thank you for your thoughts 


 

[Colour / contrast reduced when flattening]

Thank you #NotMyFault -- that was very helpful

BTW; if not your fault who do I blame 'cause it's Not My Fault :lol:
Wish I had thought of an online name like that 
Keep safe

[screen / panel locking]

This has not happened for a while so must be all OK --- why do I think those words were a bad idea :lol:

[Colour / contrast reduced when flattening]

whoops; I am out of practise at adding photos to forums

[Colour / contrast reduced when flattening]

Win 10 - affinity photo
Hello; this has been bugging me for a while 
After edit ; the image is merged visible, or flatten I am losing some colour --- mainly in the warmer colour
contrast is a problem with sketches
Cheers, thanks reading 

[screen / panel locking]

11 hours ago, Dan C said:

Hi @ianrb 

I've tried replicating this issue here and I'm not seeing the same behaviour, does this occur in any file for you, or only certain ones?

Could you possibly please provide a screen recording showing the workflow you are taking when this issue occurs?

Do you have OpenCL Hardware Acceleration enabled under Edit > Preferences > Performance?

As Walt has confirmed, you can find the option here on the context toolbar -

I hope this helps!

Thanks Dan, likely one of those little rattles in a car that never rattles when paying a mechanic to find it .
I did ask the same question on Olivio's Fb page with one saying it has happened to them. 
I will do some more "watching" and get back to you
Would have an JPG from a DNG from an ORF . DNG because Lr5 doesn't read the newer raw ORF. I open DNG as a JPG in Affinity >save as a TIF/layers in windows as a backup ----  that is so much faster than saving the Tiff in Lr5 . I'm past the days of needing BIG files/images/photos --- it's all gone rather over kill in my older opinion .
Cheers
 

[screen / panel locking]

While I'm here -- how do I remove the cropping overlay ?

[screen / panel locking]

Panel; as per photo locks when "copy flatten" >"copy from clip board" is used 
Only way to remove is close Ap after closing/save all files -- that's a bonus . With my workflow from Lr5 to Ap that can be rather time consuming. 
The panel also sits above all computer pages until Ap is closed

I do have the  latest Ap version on a win10 PC with plenty of power .
Cheers -- stay safe 

[the little things that make up the big picture]

We often look for the BIG picture -- that grand landscape  or sea scape that few of us have close by . But inside every not so grand picture are 100s or even 1000s of little pictures that are just as good to practise photography and photo editing  
Example  -- the first two are under 3" / 75mm 


From those raw files I was able to make this --


--1] twisted brain  2] ring of steel 3] moon abstract . Each name was thought of when taking the photo; 1] taken (all 3) on a block of land my son just bought ; 2] ring of steel is term often used in Australia to isolate covid19 ; 3] moon on the rusted incinerator  . I find naming the subject when/before taking the photo (I never "shoot" a subject to make a "shot") give more reason for the actual photo 

I find that collage far more rewarding than a BIG picture the same as 1000s others have photographed 
How and why questions welcome 

work in progress

 

[not all about cameras and editing]

noticing the picture is often the harder part of photography

1] original raw file

2] sort of as I saw it near the door

We often seem to wander widely looking for a subject when there can be so much in the extended backyards never noticed .

how and why questions welcome

[Im just starting out with Photo]

Not sure a full coarse is need if you PS experience
Olivio has lots of easy to understand videos
https://www.facebook.com/groups/oliviotutorials.superfan/
TIP: Affinity is just like PS; however similar tools are often hiding in different places with different names -- now can be frustrating at times but it's worth it in the end 
TIP: if you share a photo considering adding the original photo also
TIP: if you want to improve; always ask for honest comments (CC) and always give permission to re-work your photo --- a photo is worth a 1000 word (10000 to those who cannot read well :lol: 
 

[change default grid in Affinity Photo]

You can make your own presets >View >Grid + Axis management
I have a macro to set inches --- I could like have a grid size in the same macro
Built into my "start" macro I have 1x2 grid -- there also presets for  1x3 and 1x4 .
Turn grid on/off short cut is Ctrl + " -- not sure if that is default or mine
Works for me, but I'm editing photo mostly and make basic collages
Hope that helps; your questions welcome .
 

[Lightroom >Affinity Photo>Lightroom]

1 minute ago, thomaso said:

It may appear normal if you purchased 5 as an upgrade of 4. For this kind of update both numbers maybe required for reasons, different to users who purchased the latter as full version.

Yep; that is the reason. However one would think adobe could organize a set of numbers for Lr5 once everything was proved above board. I believe some users lost their Lr5 because they didn't keep the lr4 numbers for years -- I was just lucky !! . But that's adobe and very likely why we are here . I never went to Lr6 because I couldn't see much extra for me apart from working slower. 
Cheers