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About RobinMcL

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  1. Thanks for the help. I'm slowly getting there. Cheers, Robin
  2. I'm very new to all this and still, more or less, at the stage where I am trying to put my environment together. Of late, I have been giving a lot of thought to soft-proofing. I have spent time using the feature in Photo and have discovered the following. It is great to see how things will look and have the power to nudge things a bit. However, after I have made a few "nudges" I have lost the visual image of what it was I wanted in the first place. Surely, there must be a way to have two copies on the screen at the same time but only be editing one. Can someone please tell me how I can do this? Related, is the fact that, being inexperienced, I may know how I would like the image to change but NOT know how to accomplish it. From what I have read, EIZO has an app that works with Photoshop and some Epson and Canon printers to make this task a bit simpler. Does anyone know if there are plugins (that would work with Photo) or stand-alone apps that might help me here? I final question (though not on soft-proofing). Does anyone know how I could use the Datacolor SpyderCHECKR (48 patch) to create ICC profiles for my camera that I could then use with Photo? With thanks, Robin
  3. Hello, I'm new to this, and struggling. I can see myself using some more sophisticated tools in the future but, for now, I'm still trying to complete the cycle from camera to print. I've managed to get from camera to screen and have an image I like. I have also done paper/printer calibration (Cannon PRO-100) and use the soft-proofing in Photo. Where I am now having the most trouble is in managing to "nudge" the screen image in a way that makes the best use of the available printer/paper gamut that is, surely, captured within the ICC profile I have just created with the calibration tools I use (Datacolor). Eizo have their Quick Color Match to help with this. It works with their monitors and Canon software and the PRO-100 - but only as a Photoshop plugin. Does anyone know of a similar way to do this within Photo and using a monitor other than an Eizo one?: With thanks, Robin
  4. Hello, Photo does not work with Datacolor's SyderCHECKR either. This makes it very difficult (I have not yet found a way) to calibrate my Sony (ARW file) camera and produce an ICC profile that I could then use in Photo. Does anyone know of any standalone software that would let me use the SyderCHECKR 48 patch test chart to create an ICC profile for use in Photo? With thanks, Robin
  5. RobinMcL


    Hello RASeven11, I do not yet have a solution but am still working on the issue, with help from Serif. I do, however, have some further information that may help some people and still many confusions. Here's one, and one that Serif have not (yet) cleared up for me. Why is it that, when one selects that the printer does the color management, that one still has to select a printer profile in the Affinity Photo dialog? This does not sound appropriate to me because, since you want the printer to do the color management, you will select a printer profile in the printer dialogues. Hence, I feel that, if one selects that the printer should do the color management, then the drop down (immediately below) for selecting a printer profile, should be grayed out. I strongly suspect (see below for additional reasons why) that you are getting TWO printer profiles interacting (badly) with each other. I am having a extreme troubles with software, calibration hardware (and software) and printers and, in general, finding support to be poor. The following is but one problem but points to an ICC profiling conflict. I have been searching for months, in the USA and in the UK, for suitable paper for a project I have. I have gathered samples, created ICC profiles for the paper with my Canon PRO-100 printer, printed test photos - and found them all to be awful!! Finally, I did find a paper that worked - paper from Red River with which I used the ICC PROFILE SUPPLIED BY RED RIVER. Weeks later (I'm a bit slow on the uptake) I began to wonder why it was that the only paper that seemed to give decent prints was the one that I did NOT have to create my own ICC profile. I started to work with Datacolor (the supplier of the calibration equipment I was using). I sent them files and they told me that I had not switched printer profiling OFF as I am supposed to do when printing out the test patches. But I HAD turned it off. So then I contacted Canon because I was sure that I had followed, correctly, the procedure to turn printer profiling OFF. Canon reaffirmed that I had, indeed, turned it off. So there I was caught between two manufacturers; Datacolor said that I had not turned it off and Canon said that I had. Well, finally, another Canon tech person wondered that perhaps I also had to go to Printers and Devices in the Control Panel, get to Printer Properties and select "Use my own settings". So I tried that and, finally, managed to switch printer profiling off. I use Windows 7. So I had discovered a bug in the Canon printer driver for, even if one selects NONE for the Color/Intensity, it still uses a profile (that is, it is still in Auto mode). So ALL my ICC profiles were useless. Now, I still think that this has been only one of the problems because I did another test of my calibration equipment. I read the same standard color patches (the 48 patch ColorCHECKR from Datacolor) five times - and got five, very different, results. (Wildly different!) I also get better prints printing directly from Windows Explorer than printing the same file, with the same settings from Affinity Photo. I am still interacting with Serif on this one but, as of today, it appears to be a mystery to both of us. I have been working on this for many months and the only progress I have made is to learn (finally) how to switch off printer profiling on the Canon PRO-100 under Windows 7. If I do find a way to get good prints, I'll let you know.
  6. Hello All, I have been having huge problems with printing, have used calibration, studied the tutorials, and am still no further forward. I have worked back to some basic stuff and, for now, will ask about only one of the many things I don't understand. 1. I right-clicked on a file in the File Manager (Windows7) selected Print. This took me to the printer dialog for my Canon PRO-100. I was using HP Premium Plus paper. I used High Quality and tried four different Media settings. All were very good. All were VERY close to what I saw on the monitor (which had been calibrated using a DataColor product) The Photo Paper Glossy Plus II was, by the tiniest of margins, the best. The default Intent setting was Perceptual. 2. Then I opened the same file in Photo (It was a jpg and I did no editing whatsoever.) I then printed it using the printer to do any color management. I chose exactly the same printer settings (Photo Paper Glossy Plus II, High quality, perceptual. I expected the result to be exactly the same as the print I had done using the File Manager to get into the printer driver. It was NOT. It was not as good as any of the four prints I had made through the File Manager. Does anyone know what might have happened? Now I have had great results printing from Photo but usually when I have the ICC profile supplied by the paper vendor (e.g. Red River). When I use other papers, I need to create profiles. This is why I spent money on both monitor and printer calibration tools. The results using the resulting profiles have been terrible. I have been working backwards in an effort to find where the problems might start. I have reached the (above) very simple test the results of which totally bewilder me. I hope someone can help. Thanks, Robin
  7. I'm having a lot of trouble and wonder if someone can help. I was surprised to learn that Affinity Photo does not support the Sony ARW RAW file format. Does anyone know how I might convert an ARW file to one supported by Photo? I have just purchased DataColor products to calibrate cameras, monitors and printer/paper combinations. How can I get the resulting calibration presets into Photo? I tried, with several different photo sets, to stitch them in Photo but had no success. (I managed with other software.) What's the secret? Does one have to have a very large overlap? Does it work with RAW files? Sincerely, Robin