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  1. Unfortunately, this laptop doesn't have any monitor buttons. The last laptop that I've seen with monitor sliders (not buttons) had a monochrome slow LCD panel with some VGA resolution and I think a 286 CPU.
  2. Alright, thanks for the explanations. Meanwhile I made some progress. So I understood that a wide gamut stays a wide gamut unless an application really fully understands a colour profile. Only select apps can do that, like Affinity, Chrome, Firefox (under certain circumstances), IrfanView (when options are enabled). But not Explorer. Explorer even does it all wrong. It seems to interpret embedded profiles and intentionally break the rendering. So desktop wallpapers are never correct (unless manually hacking the file with a wrong profile, as described in the video). The colour profiles I can select in Windows might be a nice hint for colour-managed apps, but Windows itself can only apply a little portion of it (the R/G/B gamma curves). This can basically change the white point but not how the primary colours red, green and blue look like, i.e. their wavelengths and saturation. My display and vendor profile and apps were so off that I didn't know what is wrong or right. But after some asking and exploring, I found out that the AMD software seems to have some sRGB simulation mode. It's labelled as something completely different and generic, and it's not completely there yet. But it does the gamut conversion for the entire desktop and all apps, probably by instructing the GPU or DWM (desktop window manager) or something like that. I could correct the white point with DisplayCAL from there. A verification suggests that my display is now well calibrated to sRGB. This shows a correct desktop wallpaper and all other apps do the same. BTW, the wrong gamma value was a wrong measurement. The test pattern was disturbed by the display scaling to 250%, and the test warned me about that. At 100% scaling all is correct around 2.2 to 2.3. I know that I cannot access the wide gamut of my display anymore in this state. If I need it again, I'll have to disable the setting in the AMD software and recalibrate my display to that mode. Windows 11 22H2 seems to have some experimental feature called "ACM" that would do the gamut correction and all else for the entire desktop. (There was a Microsoft blog post from October 2022 somewhere.) It could interfere with colour-managed apps so it's not publicly available yet. But it wasn't working at all on my system, so maybe it was removed again. Hopefully, one day Windows will completely support colour profiles. Until then, I'm fine with the sRGB gamut as I've been for the past decades. I have no other content sources anyway.
  3. Hello, I think I already know what colour management and colour profiles are about and how they work in theory. But I'm having trouble putting this into practice. Until now I've only used (almost) sRGB displays and sRGB images, so there wasn't ever much of a difference to be seen. My focus was more on the CMYK side. Now I've got a new laptop from Lenovo that has a "DCI-P3" display. But it behaves really weird. I've done a fresh installation of Windows 11 with all updates from all sources, including drivers and a display colour profile named "Notebook PC Internal Display". The device produces really warm colours. Comparing with my sRGB desktop monitor and a custom blue light filter app, it could be around 5000 to 5500 K. According to the EIZO online monitor test, the gamma is around 1.7. The reds and greens are really intense. So this looks like a wide-gamut non-calibrated display to me. Then I took my Spyder 5 colorimeter and the DisplayCAL software like I used to in the past. It has created a profile for me with the desired whitepoint of 6500 K. The white now looks good, it all got a bit darker (I probably lost some of the contrast, too). Colours are still very intense though and the gamma is unchanged at 1.7. I've exported a photo I took with Lightroom and set the export colour profile once to sRGB and once to Display-P3. In IrfanView, differences are visible on both computers. When using both as Windows desktop wallpaper on the laptop, they look identical though. Still intense colours, with or without my new profile from DisplayCAL. When I open both images in Affinity Photo, they look good either way. Some profile even seems to be applied for display when I deselect the new profile from Windows settings. I have no clue what's going on here. Can somebody please explain what all these settings are for? Colour profiles can be set in Affinity Photo settings but have no effect. I can reassign a profile to an image, that's visible then but probably wrong. What is the effect of setting the profile in Windows display settings? Either by using Windows or DisplayCAL to "load" the profile. It has the same effect, but in incomprehensible ways. What I want is: correct sRGB colours everywhere and the wide gamut in supporting apps where I want it. Can this be achieved at all or will I have to live with a randomly-calibrated display that's far from sRGB and P3 (despite being advertised as "100% DCI-P3") because Windows has no idea about colour profiles? I could manually hack my desktop wallpaper but what about all images in Firefox, Word and other applications?
  4. Translating objects with the keyboard seems to have other bugs as well. When I move an object and then rotate it with the mouse, it has funny effects. The object will rotate around a different point. Only when releaseing the mouse button and trying again, the rotation looks good.
  5. Cool, thanks! That already helps. So just the manual number input is left. All objects are fixed at the selected corner/edge and resize to the other directions when entering numbers, but artboards not.
  6. Hello, I've made a big artboard with a plan drawing on it. Some of the parts in the plan reach outside of the regular A3 artboard size. To see them and make changes to them, I wanted to temporarily extend the artboard to make them visible without moving everything else. (I want those elements to be correct even though I can't usually see them in full because I can still use them for area measurements.) Now I can't resize the artboard back to its original and printable A3 size. I know the height should be 42 cm. But as I extended the size at the top edge, I need to set the anchor to a bottom corner when entering the 42 directly. This is ignored! The artboard is always resized at the bottom when entering the numeric height directly. So this doesn't work. Then I tried to create a helper line at exactly the height 42 cm from the bottom edge. I selected it to activate it for magnetic alignment. Again, when resizing the artboard at its top edge handle, it ignores any object alignment. So my helper line is useless. How am I supposed to size an artboard to a specific exact height at the top edge?! I'm using Affinity Designer 2.1.1 on Windows 11.
  7. This is really annoying. Can I use an older version that still works? I need to use this measurement tool a lot now. New situation: Select an object to measure Select the area measure tool Zoom in with Ctrl+MouseWheel → Crash No need to leave the measure tool, the bug happens with the tool active. New log files attached. attachment_Log.txt b0133e09-59e7-4a97-a58c-b445b015abfb.zip
  8. I've enabled the auto submit of crash reports. But here's that directory. CrashReports.zip
  9. It's happening again. The area measure tool definitely has serious issues. Always save your document before activating the area measure tool! It will likely crash and you lose most changes.
  10. Affinity Designer 2.1.1 on Windows 11 STR: Open a document with two artboards and objects in it Move the second artboard so that it directly touches the first artboard to its right (first is left, second is right) Translate the second artboard by pressing Shift+ArrowRight a few times to move it a bit away Resize the second artboard, anchor at top left corner Expected: The second artboard changes size but tis content remains where it is relative to the top left corner Actual: The second artboard content is moved back to the left where the artboard was before shifting it with Shift+ArrowRight. Seems like this movement method isn't fully committed at the time the artboard is resized.
  11. I cannot even recreate the crash in my current document. It seems that after one or two crashes, it works for a while. I'll keep an eye on it. Will be doing this more often in the next days again. Hope the submitted reports help you.
  12. Third crash, second today. It's always the same: Draw, move and resize a rectangle Switch to the area measure tool (Switch to the calculator app and back) Select the Selection tool again to resize the rectangle The tool cannot be selected anymore. The UI is already frozen and will disappear a few seconds after. There must be a pattern to this.
  13. I've just set up my new computer, this time with Windows 11 instead of 10. Affinity Designer (and the rest of the suite) is installed in the current version 2.1.1. Then I've noticed that Designer crashes more often than before. It hasn't done that in a year at least. Now it was already twice in two days. Today I've drawn a rectangle and selected the area measure tool. Then I wanted to resize the rectangle and selected the Select tool. That didn't react and a few seconds later the window disappeared. IIRC, yesterday, I also used the area measure tool. There might be a critical bug in that.
  14. When I use a mouse to click on a tool with the left button, it will be activated. Clicking with the right button shows a context menu with all the overloads of the toolbutton. On a touchpad on a laptop, tapping with one finger is the same as a left mouse button click. It behaves the same everywhere. But in Affinity Designer, slight tapping/touching (not hard clicking) opens the context menu on the toolbutton. As if I were right-clicking. But that would only be the case when I tap/touch with two fingers. But I'm sure I use only one finger. So it seems like Affinity can look behind the click event and figure out that I was tapping instead of clicking. Could you please stop that and use my tap default left click again? I usually only tap with one finger instead of pushing down the bottom left area of the touchpad to click. Selecting a tool is more complicated with this buggy behaviour.
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