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Layer - New Adjustment Layer is a good place to start: Also checkout Layer - New Live Filter Layer: All of these are non-destructive.

Why use Develop Persona at all for this workflow? Use Photo Persona, save your image as an .afphoto document with all adjustments/filters included, then export to .jpg when you want to show it to your client. You can open the .afphoto document months later and modify the adjustments and filters, then export to .jpg again.

Wrap Style: tight. Distance from text: 0 Text - Wrap - Adjust Wrap Outline: Adjust the wrap outline using the Node Tool.

The brush issue has been reported in the Bugs section of the Forum and is is already logged with the Dev team to resolve

Running macOS Ventura, Affinity Photo v2.0.0 What happens: I open a .jpg image, make no edits in Photo Persona and switch into Liquify Persona. I load a previously-saved .affinity_liquify_mesh file. The image distorts as expected. I click the close button, or type Cmd-W, or choose Close from the File menu. The image closes immediately without saving - there is no Save dialog. mesh_warp.mov I would expect to be presented with a Save dialog or an opportunity to return to Photo Persona without saving. If I edit the image in Photo Persona before entering Liquify Persona and loading the Mesh file, I am asked if I wish to save my changes. The issue only occurs if no edits are made before applying the mesh. The mesh file I used in the video is nearly 74mb (!) so I'd rather not upload it unless absolutely necessary.

Also worth making sure that Ignore Baseline Grid is ticked in the General tab of the Text Frame Panel: Screen Recording 2022-11-28 at 20.42.35.mov I'm pretty certain it's something to do with the baseline grid, but there are a lot of different options to work through.

If you select the entire table with the Move Tool (not the table tool) and then in the Stroke and Fill tab of the Table Panel either set the stroke weight or the stroke opacity to 0, it will change them all at once without having to modify Individual lines: Screen Recording 2022-11-28 at 20.47.56.mov Cheers, H

Works for me on macOS Ventura: \\ This is after creating the preset, then quitting and restarting Affinity Photo 2. To answer the OP's other question, I don't believe there is any way of organising these presets.

I'm seeing exactly the same - as soon as I use the Selection Brush, the pointer changes to an arrow (although the Selection Brush is still active in the toolbar). Looks like a bug, but you can get round it by typing w (the brush shortcut) and the correct brush shape will reappear - until of course you use the brush again. Another 'fix' is to briefly hover the pointer over the toolbar. Again, the correct brush shape reappears.

Your second screen shot doesn't show the complete Spacing Panel so it's a bit hard to tell what's going on. I can replicate your 'small' 20pt text in a couple of ways: either by setting it to Subscript in the Positioning & Transform section of the Character Panel, or by reducing the Horizontal and Vertical Scale in the same place. (The scaling options are just above the Subscript button.) Might be worth checking those out.

Sounds as though you need to adjust the baseline grid. Either turn it off altogether (View- Baseline Grid...) or set it to an exact multiple of the leading. Alternatively you can turn it off per paragraph in the Spacing Panel: Can't help with your Arial though. Does it still show 20pt if you actually select the text?

Before you go resetting everything, just double-check that you haven't inadvertently hidden the Context Toolbar (the setting should be ticked): (Screen shot is from MacOS but should be pretty much the same for Windows.) The doughnut (stroke) shape in the Colour Panel is a feature of Affinity Designer and Publisher. In Photo, where it doubles as Stroke and Background Colour, it's a full circle.

Search the Help for 'XMP Sidecar', follow the link to 'Metadata Panel', read to the bottom. Metadata Panel in Develop Persona: .

Sorry, I didn't explain myself fully. Using the Live Pinch/Punch Filter, if you don't click the mouse, the effect is applied by default in the centre of the image. Dragging and/or clicking in different areas moves the centre of the effect. If you click in the middle of a very large, single-colour object (bigger than 1024px), there will be no observable effect. Screen Recording 2022-04-30 at 08.34.18.mov The small rectangle above is 1024px wide. The effect is much more pronounced in a smaller photographic image: Screen Recording 2022-04-30 at 08.46.15.mov But it may be more effective to use Liquefy Persona and a very large brush.

First you need to click your cursor in the centre of the distortion. Second you need to check the size of your star. If it's a lot larger than the maximum numerical pixel size on the lower slider in the dialog box (1024px), then pinch-punch will have little or no obvious effect. Third you need to ensure that the pinch or punch percentage value (top slider) is fairly extreme if you want to see any variation. Uncheck "Preserve Alpha" too if you're using the live filter, as below. Screen Recording 2022-04-29 at 20.01.30.mov Video shows the effect after clicking on one tip of a purple supergiant star. Clicking in the middle of one of these hypergalactic monsters and then using pinch-punch will have little or no effect. You'll also have more luck applying the filter to a photographic image rather than a flat area of identically coloured pixels.

Pixabay is working fine for me:

I've just re-read my original answer and I can in fact snap the control handles to the curve's geometry with those snapping options selected - no guides needed. You learn something every day...

In my example below, the middle node (Node 2) is smoothed and its two control handles are aligned vertically with with lower node (Node 3). To help with this I pulled across a vertical guide and snapped the first node and the two control handles to it. (On macOS at least, it seems you have to hold down Shift to snap the control handles - as far as I can see none of the snapping options affects them.) Screen Recording 2022-04-24 at 18.03.08.mp4 Nodes 1 and 2 are smooth nodes. Node 3 is sharp. The lower control handle of Node 2 is pulled down quite close to Node 3. The upper control handle of Node 2 is positioned slightly above Node 1. There is a smooth transition between straight line and curved at Node 2. I adjust the shape of the curved segment by moving Node 1 and its control handles. Hope this makes sense - it's not the easiest thing to put into words.

I drew a single rectangle covering the entire document, then applied an elliptical fill: I then used the Fill Tool as in the video to adjust the positioning of the gradient. No need for any additional layers or backgrounds.

Does the Fill Tool get you anywhere? Screen Recording 2022-04-24 at 16.47.39.mov

Also check the blend mode of the brush. Resetting it to Normal may help.

The blur brush is very very subtle and quite slow. If you want to paint an immediate, strong blur effect onto your image, start off with a Gaussian Blur filter layer masked to the image (as you did to start with), then set an overall blur: Screen Recording 2022-04-23 at 11.03.44.mp4 In the video above, I invert the blur layer to black, then paint on the blur layer with an ordinary paint brush (not the blur brush) set to white with fairly soft edges. You can make the effect more subtle by reducing the opacity of the brush (Add: or indeed by adjusting the parameters in the Gaussian Blur layer). (I think the bug with the Blur Brush preview has been reported before...)

I can't think of any straightforward way with Publisher - it's a page layout program, not a pdf manager. The Add Pages from File command works well with multi-page pdfs, but not to combine singles and I don't think it's intended to. If you're on macOS you can combine multiple pdfs using Preview. On macOS Monterey you can use Shortcuts. There are also various "free" apps in the Apple App Store that purport to do it, but the only one I tried failed miserably. (On earlier versions of macOS you could do it with Automator, but the action no longer seems to work in Monterey.) Add: if I use Preview with my scanner I can also combine multiple pages into one pdf as I scan.

You could try: Layer - Invert - this makes all the white pixels black, and vice versa Filter - Colours - Erase White Paper - this removes the (now white) background. Cmd-click (macOS, presumably ctrl-click for Windows) on the layer in the Layers panel to select all the pixels. The 'marching ants' won't appear to select everything, but don't worry: some pixels will be 'half selected' and should get picked up when you... Select - Save Selection > To File... keep the .afselection file somewhere handy. Close your original file without saving. To apply the starburst: Open another image, then Select - Load Selection from File - navigate to your .afselection file and plonk it in. Set your foreground colour to white, then Layer - New Fill Layer. Right-click on the Fill Layer and choose Rasterise and Trim to create a Pixel layer containing the starburst above the background layer of the image. Deselect (cmd-D on macOS). Select the Move tool, adjust the size and position of the starburst and play with the layer's opacity and with blend modes to modify the effect. One possible downside is that the starburst will be the same size (in pixels) as the original. So if you place it larger images, it will be proportionally smaller and enlarging it drastically will tend to pixellate the edges. You might also speed things up by saving the starburst layer as an Asset.

Single click! 🤣 (Node Tool selected).