h_d

One way to visualise 8- and 16-page signatures is to get a sheet of paper, fold it to the configuration of the signature and then write the folios on in the correct order and orientation. Unfold the 'signature' to get the layout of the pages on the printed sheet. Before unfolding, underline 1, 6, 8, 9 and 11 so you get the orientation right (I forgot 11 before taking the pics ). It's a bit rough and ready, but in the absence of any imposition software it got me out of a few scrapes. You'd be hard-pressed to do a 32 though. Cheers, H

I don't think you're missing anything. Your .afphoto documents (or 'projects'), with layers, adjustments, live filters, masks etc, are your own working versions. They are only editable in Affinity applications, and can only be saved as .afphoto documents. When you want to use them for broader purposes (eg to display on a website), then you would export them in a more general format (.jpg, .png etc). If you want to upload .afphoto files to your website so that other people can download them, then @v_kyr's answer may help. (It's outside my competence.) But if you want to upload them so that other people can see them as part of the design of your website, then they need to be exported from Affinity Photo in a web-browser-compatible format like .jpg or .png. Hope this helps, H

Like this? If you continue embedding large images (8x10, presumably inches, at 300 DPI) into your AFPub document, its size will balloon. No-one really seems to know how big an AFPub file (lots of pages, lots of embedded images) can get before it starts to cause issues with editing/saving/exporting, but better safe than sorry. There are (at least) two possibilities. First, in the File menu under Document Setup is an option to "Prefer Linked". With this checked, placed images will not be embedded but referenced, and the AFPub document will hopefully remain at a manageable size. The downside to this is that if the images are subsequently moved (to another folder, say), then Publisher will lose track of them and you would need to re-link them. Second, if you really do want to embed all the images (which removes the risk of them being moved), then you could resize them to the dimensions of your Picture Frames before Placing them. This will keep the AFPub file down to a manageable size.

And if it’s already focussed then nothing happens. (I think I had Help panel open front of it which didn’t help.)

Ah yes. It's a slightly odd bit of interface design, though. Choose "More..." and nothing appears to happen. Maybe it should read "Display Fields Panel" or something a bit clearer.

Title says it all. Choosing "More..." here does nothing.

Hi, If I display my lists of Master Pages and Pages like this: And then click the disclosure triangle next to Master Pages... The Pages list (undisclosed) drops right to the bottom of the panel, even if (as here) I only have one master page set up. The first couple of times this happened I thought the Pages list had disappeared. Disclosing the Pages list bounces it back up to the top of the panel: Just seems like a slightly weird bit of interface: I would expect the top of the Pages list to be displayed immediately below the Masters list, even when undisclosed. Cheers, H

Have you tried increasing the Screen tolerance? I find with your settings (Screen tolerance 3, at pretty much any magnification), then it won't snap. Increase the Screen tolerance to around 8 or 12 and see if that helps. (I'm on Catalina too, 2018 MacBook Pro.)

Hi @wibby baff and welcome! Here's one way: Open both images, copy and paste one of them onto a new layer in the other image. Set the Flood Select Tool to very low tolerance (around 2%). Use it to select the grey triangular areas on each layer in turn, and then delete them. Increase the width of the Canvas (Document menu) so that both sections of the image fit within it. Use the Move Tool to adjust the positions of the two sections so that they match up as closely as possible. Flatten and crop the document. Use the Inpainting Brush Tool in very small stages to clean up the inevitable "stitch line", and the Healing Brush Tool to clean up blemishes. I've attached my effort (RLtiff.tiff) and a screen shot. It's a charming photo! RLtiff.tiff

Hi and welcome! Can't be sure without a screen shot, but it sounds as though you're working on a placed image layer, not a pixel layer. You'll need to rasterise the layer: This will convert it to a Pixel layer. And the 'magic wand' or Flood Select Tool should now work as expected: Hope this helps...

Ah yes, my mistake.

FWIW (Beta 1.8.0.523 for MacOS) : "Apple defaults" use Alt+arrow to jump the cursor word-by-word. "Serif defaults" use the same shortcuts to modify paragraph leading.

FWIW if you have both applications you can construct the shape in Designer (two strokes, grouped rules masked by the rounded rectangle), and then copy & paste the whole thing into Publisher. It's still resizable, but as far as I can see you can't change the shape of the corners.

Hi @C.L. and welcome! This has been asked before (eg here) and the simple answer is that there's no easy way. You may be able to get round it by inserting page breaks or column breaks into the flow: or by cutting and pasting the overmatter into a new flow at the end of each chapter/section. But if it were me, I would organise my original text outside AFPub into separate files for each section or chapter, and then pull each of them as a series of new flows.

Vapourware...

Hi @bassrun and welcome! Yes! Select the text and set the fill to black and the stroke to green in the Colour panel, then adjust the width of the stroke in the Stroke panel: I've pulled out the relevant panels so hopefully you can see the settings. You may need to display them using the View - Studio - menu. Cheers, H

There's an issue with Blur Brush on Mac with Metal Compute enabled. It manifests itself as an occasional transparent brush preview and no change to the image when the brush is used. Turning off Metal Compute (Preferences - Performance) and restarting seems to be the only work-round.

If I understand correctly, you want solid red material in the counters (loops) of the letters "o" and "e" and in the swashes, and you want to cut the heart out on a cutting machine with the word punched out of it. I'd have thought you'd need a physical connection between the outer red area and the inner loops (like a stencil). I did this with some extra rectangles: Otherwise the loops are just going to fall out of the letters. To make the word transparent rather than white, select both the heart and the word (I used Artistic text, not Frame Text). Pull down the Layers menu and choose Geometry >Subtract:

Done a bit more probing and I have successfully used ExifTool to set a -lenstype value that appears in the Lens Distortion panel in AP.'s Develop mode: exiftool -lenstype='VENUS LAOWA 7.5/F2.0' -FocalLength='7.5mm' ~/file-path-here -overwrite_original Capitalisation and punctuation appear to be important. The image was shot using a Panasonic Lumix GX-7 camera and a LUMIX G 25mm f1.7 lens. I don't know if it will work with other makes of camera. Checking and unchecking the box shows a difference in the image - without the actual lens I obviously can't tell if the correction is accurate or not. Screen Recording 2019-12-07 at 13.10.12.mov Hope this helps someone...

@GarryP Don't know I'm afraid - just suggesting it as a possible way of achieving what @JohnG is looking for.

You can fill text with a bitmap in the following way (credit to @v_kyr in this thread): Use the Artistic Text tool to write some random text. Drag the Gradient Tool over it. In the Context toolbar, set the fill to Bitmap This will present a file chooser dialog - choose your .jpg or .png Adjust the size and position of the inserted image using the Gradient Tool Add Layer Effects to taste Hope this helps...

Ctrl-click or right-click or 'secondary click' on the .svg file, choose Open With... BBEdit, CotEditor, even Apple's own TextEdit will open it, among many others. Or you can change the '.svg' filename extension to ".txt" and the file will open in your default text editor.

It's rather charmingly called a 'Stationery Pad'

As far as I can see you would need to Add all the elements of the figure to create a single curve. Then you can Clip the shadow to the figure: Screen Recording 2019-12-06 at 08.20.05.mov Which doesn't help if you then want to move the individual body parts...

All Affinity apps (Photo, Designer and Publisher) for MacOS are at version 1.7.3.