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  1. Thank you very much for your help. I'll stick with ON1 Photo Raw on my laptop then. Still have Affinity on my desktop, which is where I do the vast majority of my editing anyway. And I prefer the raw development in ON1, and that's about 90% of the stuff I bother with til I get back my my desktop with it's nice big screen! It's not really a hassle, and certainly not worth paying again for some marginal convenience. And ON1 let me download and sign in on the Air without a murmur. Thanks for the heads up.
  2. I have been using Affinity on my Windows PC (at home) and my Windows laptop (when travelling), all without any problems. They're both registered to my account. But now I've changed from a Windows laptop to a Macbook air. It's still only one desktop and one laptop (and I can't use both at the same time!) But I can only download the Windows version from my account - and there seems no way to "deregister" my ex-laptop. I can't find any way to download the Mac version (and obviously I have a product key) or change my laptop. Can anyone help? TIA Caroline
  3. I'm glad someone wiser and more knowledgeable than me showed up! I did all that stuff, but I'd have to learn again from scratch now as I've completely forgotten how I did them. I do remember there's an official Affinity video on how to go about inferring LUTs though. But I add my voice to the recommendation that you develop your RAW file first.
  4. Now I'm a little bit older and wiser, I know I need to mention these LUTs were created in the AdobeRGB colour space.
  5. Thank you both SO much for your help. Having been brainwashed into "keep quality as high as you can", I saved them out as maxed .cube files. Ho hum.
  6. I used 'Infer LUT' to create a collection of Fuji film sims. This appeared to work very well, and they do work well. Except they slow Affinity to a total crawl. I experimented with loading them to ON1 - and promptly slowed ON1 to a crawl on the LUT filter too. This led to the light dawning there might be something up with my LUTs rather than Affinity! 😂 (Who'da thunk it?? 🤔) And the answer is staring me in the face. When I explore various LUTs I have lying around, a typical filesize is around 860k. My own "masterpieces" however come in at a solid 52,745kb a piece. <gulp>. No wonder Affinity chokes when I try and browse them! What am I doing/have I done wrong? I'm a complete beginner at this kind of thing (and there was me thinking I was so clever...... 🙄). As I recall (and I've slept since then) I did a neutral develop of a photo with a lot of colour and tone. Then I used C1 to load the same RAW file and tried to match it by eye to the one I developed in Affinity. And then applied the Fuji LUTs one by one, exported them as TIFs (I think) and loaded the C1 Tif into Affinity as a layer above the developed RAW to infer the LUT between them, saving the result. With (which I didn't notice, obviously) the resulting massive .CUBE file. (I may not have remember the process completely correctly, but maybe enough for someone to be able to say "You muppet! Doing xx is why the files are so large."
  7. You are officially my Hero of the Week! Thank you SO much. That will save me hundreds of key clicks. (And the Set Fill to 50% Grey has a shortcut key now too, as I also use that an awful lot).
  8. Thank you for answering. If there's a way to reset colours to black and white in those shortcuts then I've never found it - and I have looked.
  9. Thanks Meb. I'm on Windows. I can scale the UI globally (and have) to a size that fits almost everything I do. So I don't really want to change that scaling for one program I use among many. I have got reasonably used to it, and Ctrl-Z is a lifesaver of course, but I do find it quite hard to pick out the toolbar icons. If I'm mousing, I think I select the Selection brush instead of the ordinary brush 9 times out of 10, just by way of an example.
  10. I keep thinking I'm missing something obvious (won't be the first time) but I can't find a quick way to reset the current colours to black & white. I'm used to hitting the 'D' key instead of laboriously selecting them each time. Given the frequency of use for masking, I feel certain I'm missing something. Can anyone help?
  11. Thank you for this, it worked for me - though it took me a while to find the File menu and install the Photoshop plugin from there. Then I was able to navigate to that folder in the Affinity plugin install. I've spent a fair bit of time using Luminar as a plugin already and it seems rock solid. Unlike, sadly, Nik collection which crashes if you zoom in and out too many times, and takes AP down with it.
  12. I second this. The interface is hard on older eyes and it's easy to pick the wrong tool when they're so tiny. (2440 27in screen)
  13. I had exactly this problem (except being more of a n00b I wanted to transition from Photoshop Elements organiser). I tried trial versions of all sorts of things, and nothing fit and then stumbled on Digikam which is open source and free. And brilliant. I had written all my tags into my photos in Organiser, which were all picked up in Digikam. A few hours of work, and 14,000 photos are better organised and sorted than they've ever been. It's not always the most intuitive software. Stuff like tags and albums I worked out easily enough but forcing it to work in depth like I wanted it to sent me to the online manual now and then. If Affinity is your default editor, one click on a photo sends it directly for editing. It also has a built in editor, though I've ignored that. But there's still so much in Digikam that I haven't explored - like a lot of open source, it has every option plus the kitchen sink included. But it was quick and easy to replace what Elements Organiser did for me - and there's very little online help for that. An awful lot more advice is to be found for Lightroom refugees. And it's still being actively developed. I've become a complete fan and finally shuffled off the last shackles of Adobe. The possible fly in the ointment is what your system is. There are Linux versions and Windows versions only.
  14. I've just spent all day (!) creating a set of Affinity LUTs for all the Fujifilm film simulations. I have a shiny new X-S10 but I shoot in RAW so Affinity doesn't give me them. The free version of Capture One reads my camera and has all of them, but I just can't get away well with the interface (when I wanted to use a film simulation, I was doing a basic develop in C1, applying the LUT and exporting to Affinity as a TIFF, which was a bit of a faff). So I used 'Infer LUT', and a lot of patience etc to create LUTs for Affinity. I then checked them out by independently developing RAW files on both C1 and Affinity to end up with a base result where I couldn't tell the difference on my monitor (which is very colur accurate), as sometimes exporting a file from C1 gave me a completely different-looking picture on Affinity. (If you're thinking that this has been a headache, you're dead right!) This was to check the accuracy of my LUTs. First of all, I wanted LUTs so they'd be easier to use on Affinity and secondly, I have hundreds and hundreds of RAW files from my Fuji X-A7 - and C1 does NOT offer me the film simulations on that, so I had no other way of using them if I wanted to. So here's the thing. I obviously can't tell you how it comparies to in camera, but I can say the film simulation end result on Affinity is very nearly identical to the end result on C1 without the need to use C1. The only difference I can see is a slight variation in green which is visible but not great (and generally I preferred the Affinity LUT version). I also have literally no idea if they work equally well on ALL Fuji sensors/cameras because I've only just this second realised I haven't even tested them on the X-A7 raw files. I did have a set of LUTs previously that I know I downloaded from this forum posted by some kind soul. But I found they didn't work well for me (this was my X-A7 days, but I found the same with the X-S10 files); very intense and, even with opacity turned well down, they didn't seem to match JPG film sim shots very well. I'm actually very nervous writing this post. I'm relatively new to Affinity and this is the first post I've made on the forum and I don't know how people are going to respond to a random stranger offering gifts! Oh, and if you're a n00b like me, the film simulations have to be applied with a LUT layer from the Photo Persona. I try and do a fairly neutral develop just to make a reasonably toned and exposed picture and send it over to Photo Persona, add the film sim LUT and then make any further changes I might want. No idea if that's the best way, it's just the one I figured out. Fuji_LUTs_X-S10_-_X-Trans.zip
  15. It's November, and I just bought the Nik Collection. I'm having exactly the same problems. One time it works, next time it crashes. I can have no crashes using several plugins or I can crash pretty much on every one. I have found my crash reports if that's any use. I have had Affinity crash on its own account but very very rarely. Now it's becoming pretty regular. Any tips or progress? I'm on Windows 10, up to date, Intel i5, 32gb RAM, nVidia 2060;
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